I really, really liked the earlier versions of this locking mechanism.

The original Logical CardLock Case was thin and compact—essentially a reusable, lockable replacement for an envelope. It worked well for presenting a gift card, cash or perhaps a clue in a treasure hunt.

But as much as I liked those designs, they were still basically skinny boxes. The mechanism was fun, but the limited space inside restricted what you could actually do with it.

That led to a fairly obvious question: what if I turned it into a proper box?

Download the Logical Lock Box on Thangs

The Same Idea, Made More Useful

The result is the Logical Lock Box.

It uses the same basic mechanical idea I liked so much in the earlier designs, but now there is a genuinely useful storage compartment beneath it. That makes it much better suited to use as a puzzle box, gift box, keepsake box or simply a fun place to hide something.

The new version also expands the lock from three digits to four, giving it a more substantial mechanism and many more possible combinations.

Why I Like This Mechanism So Much

I love this locking mechanism. It is simple, programmable and super fun.

Each numbered dial controls the position of a locking gear. When the correct four-digit combination is entered, openings in the gears align with the compliant tumblers and allow the latch to slide.

If even one dial is wrong, the corresponding tumbler blocks the latch and keeps the box closed.

There are no metal springs, screws or electronic components involved. The spring action comes from compliant elements printed directly into the mechanism, and even the detents that give the dials their satisfying indexed movement are printed as part of the design.

Everything is 3D printed.

Putting the Mechanism on Display

Normally, the workings of a combination lock are hidden inside its case. With this design, I decided they should be part of the experience.

The clear cover leaves the gears and tumblers visible as the dials are turned. I find mechanical designs much more interesting when you can actually see what is happening inside them, and this one is particularly satisfying to watch.

Some strategic masking helps hide the parts of the gears that would make the combination too easy to identify, while still leaving most of the mechanism on display.

Set Your Own Combination

The four-digit code is determined by how the numbered dials are positioned relative to their locking gears during assembly.

That means you can choose your own combination rather than being stuck with one I selected. You can also open the mechanism and change the code again later.

Once the correct combination is entered, the latch can be moved and the lid opened. Enter the wrong combination and the tumblers prevent the latch from moving.

A Completely Printed Mechanical Build

The body, lid and hinge print together, while the dials, gears and latch components are installed afterward. The completed lock assembly then snaps onto the box without glue, screws or additional hardware.

Even the temporary support beneath the lock mechanism is printed as part of the project and removed once it has done its job.

The finished box measures approximately 6.69 × 2.87 × 1.75 inches. It provides substantially more usable space than the earlier CardLock Case while keeping the mechanism as the main visual feature.

Assembly and Programming

There is some assembly involved, but I think that is part of what makes this design enjoyable. It feels more like building a small mechanical device than simply printing another container.

The lock components are installed in sequence, and the combination is programmed by setting the relationship between each numbered dial and its locking gear.

The illustrated instructions included with the model walk through the complete process.

Once assembled, enter the correct code, slide the latch and lift the lid.

Then hand it to someone else without telling them the combination.

Printing the Logical Lock Box

As with most functional prints, the slicer settings matter. The gears, compliant elements, hinge and snap connections all depend on the parts having enough strength and dimensional accuracy to work properly.

I have included the recommended slicer settings with the model rather than relying on typical default settings intended for decorative prints.

Download the Logical Lock Box

The model files, print settings and complete illustrated assembly instructions are available on Thangs:

Download the Logical Lock Box on Thangs

If you print one, I would love to see the colour combination you choose and hear what you use it for.

I still enjoy this mechanism enough that the Logical Lock Box may not be its final form.

The post Logical Lock Box first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The hook is rotatable and extends out for use and in for collapsing into the main body. The two side arm sections also fold into the main body for storage or travel.

This design uses compliant latches to hold the compartments closed. I might try to make a combination lock version in the future. And, a few people have requested a thicker body (bigger storage).

Once deployed, the hanger is full-size.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

The post StashHanger 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Lockable USB Cable Clasp – Version 2.0

Keep your cables secure and organized with this print-in-place cable clasp.
Designed to hold up to 4 cables, it can be used with or without a lock for added security.

Key Features

• 100% printed – no hardware required
• Print-in-place design, ready to use right off the printer
• Holds up to 4 cables neatly and securely
• Optional lock or zip tie for extra protection

Instructions

1. Lay in the cables
2. Fold the inner clasp over to hold them in place
3. Fold the outer clasp until it snaps closed
4. (Optional) Add a lock or zip tie through the enclosure for extra security

Print & Slicer Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

• Material: PLA, PETG, or ABS
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Walls: 4 (1.6 mm)
• Top/Bottom: 5 (1.0 mm)
• Infill: 40% Cubic (100% for maximum strength)
• Detect Thin Walls: On
• Wall Generator: Arachne
• Brim/Raft: No
• Support: None required
• Print Orientation: As per STL/3MF files

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

The post Lockable USB Cable Clasp Version 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

The original design had several problems, but the most significant was that there was no handle. And, even after I added a knob to it for lifting, it did not seem right because the knob did not help you open the Drainer. But the new design (posted here) solves that and so much more.

It is stronger and more durable, has improved drainage, better retention when closed, and raised ribs that encourage food scraps to slide off better.

The new handle is also part of the opening and closing system. When you lift the Drainer up using the handle, you are keeping it closed, which is important if it is full of food scraps as you swing around to your garage receptacle. Then you rotate your fingers slightly so that you can press the pressure point with your thumb, causing it to pop open, while at the same time holding the handle to suspend the Drainer. It might sound complicated but it feels very natural once you have done it a few times.

It prints as a single piece with one piece of support to be removed after printing. And, I recommend printing it in ABS if you can, as it has a higher Tg (glass temperature) than PLA and PETG, making it better able to survive the hot water typically found flowing into sinks.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is no assembly required, but you do need to carefully defuse the print before using it and remove the built-in print support.

The post Drainer v2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

There are some good reasons the commercially made ones are made of machined aluminum, and I am not going to lie, those are nice, but there is something about 3D printing things (at least for me) that compete with the commercially made alternatives. And, this one is as much an educational exercise as it is a tablet stand. It demonstrates:

• Print-in-place hinges & press-fit joints
• Conical thrust bearing with offset detents
• An orbital gear system
• Click joints
• Double helical gear-to-gear joints
• Twist-and-lock + threaded assemblies
• Snap fit, rotational fit, and press fit examples

I designed this to fit 11″ tablets, because that is what I have, but I imagine it will work fine with smaller and larger ones also.

I have made all the articulated joints quite stiff to stabilize the assembly and keep it as rigid as possible.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Please watch the video I made on how to assemble it, but the following images should be helpful as well.

The post Tablet Turret first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

GearBin is a fully 3D printable mini trash bin with a unique mechanical twist. Designed for use with biodegradable dog waste/poop bags as liners, it’s the ideal solution for food scraps, backyard clean-up, BBQ prep, or anywhere you want a tidy, compact bin that works smarter – even your desk.

I chose to use biodegradable dog waste/poop bags for this because they are a fraction of the cost of biodegradable kitchen bags and smaller so you can discard them more frequently at a lower cost.  

Our issue is we do not want to waste the more expensive biodegradable kitchen bags so we try to use them for several days. But by the end of a few days the kitchen waste can start to smell to then you throw it away without filling the bag… wasteful. So back to the small dog poop bags that are much lower cost and the right size for daily discarding.

The GearBin could be ideal for a wide range of applications including:

• Office or desk
• Kitchen countertops
• Outdoor prep areas and BBQ stations
• Composting and daily food waste
• Eco-conscious homes using dog poop bags for liners

The main features of the design are:

Gear-Driven Push Lid:
Open the lid with a simple press on the front bar—no electronics, just clean, mechanical magic.

Folding Liner Frame:
The innovative push-push mechanism folds the bag frame inwards for easy loading and unloading of liners. Holds standard dog poop bags securely.

100% Snap-Fit Assembly:
No glue, screws, or springs. Just print, snap together, and you’re ready to go.

Optional Bucket Insert:
Use with or without a removable bucket insert (included) to catch leaks and assist with liner removal.

I watched a reel promoting a small garbage bin with a folding frame to make it easier to install the liner bag. I thought that was a great idea so that is what I did too. But I made it using a push-push style so you can press it once to collapse the frame and then again to open it once the bag is installed. And, you can do the same to remove the bag.

I have also included a bucket that sits in the GearBin and essentially creates a safe space for the bag. It makes sure the bag can be pulled out from the GearBin even if it is jam-packed. And, that in the event the bag breaks or leaks you have a containment system. But the bucket also means you can use the GearBin without a bag.

I have included some exploded diagrams to help visualize what the GearBin is but to assemble it, you need to watch my instructional video linked at the bottom of this post.

Print Settings

You can print everything in PLA but you should consider printing the spring components in PETG. I have identified those in the print settings table below.

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

I have linked my assembly instructional video below, so please check that out. But also note there are a few pieces of print support to be removed after printing.

The Lid has a small strip of print support that sits under the print-in-place hinge. So look for that as you loosen the hinge after printing.

As well the Bucket has print support on each side to create the handle holes. Carefully break those free before using.

If you are building the GearBin you will definitely need to watch the following assembly instruction video…

The post GearBin™ – Mini Mechanized Trash Bin first appeared on logicalplanet.

I wanted a better way to keep a couple of dog bags with me, especially in the summer when I don’t have a jacket and all the accompanying pockets. As any dog owner likely knows, if you put a couple of loose bags in your pocket it is hard to tell if they are there or not and eventually you find yourself out for a walk and your pockets are empty. And, when you put loose dog bags in your pocket they become messy catching with anything else in your pocket. So my idea was a credit card-sized bag holder that would allow you to keep the bags organized and know that you have it before you set out.

I have worked on this for a long time but it only finally became clear to me recently when I realized a stand was a good idea and then the winder could be stored there. The winder can also be kept inside the PcoektBagCard but because it takes up precious space that means 1 less bag. Abd, with the stand able to hold 3 PocketBagCard, you can have them standing by and ready whenever you want to grab one to go.

The PocketBagCard itself is two pieces that are hinged together and print-in-place resulting in a very strong hinge and no assembly required.

The stand holds up to 3 PocketBagCards and has storage for the winder.

Using It

The idea is to wind a few bags around the Winder with a corner of the first bag extended out. By doing so, the bags will uncoil from the middle of the coiled bags and easily and neatly dispense from the PocketBagCard. So you hold a corner, wrap the bags and then slide them off the Winder.

Then place the coiled bags into the PocketBagCard with that exposed corner peaking through the gap in the hinged end. Fold it closed, and you are ready to dispense.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

The post PocketBagCard – Credit Card Sized Bag Holder first appeared on logicalplanet.

I needed to cover or partially cover a couple of switches and motion sensor switches and this is what I came up with… 

This handy cover/baffle can function in multiple ways:

• As a baffle to block the effective sensing area of a motion sensor wall switch, 
• To cover a motion sensor wall switch, effectively disabling the sensor until the cover is opened, and
• To protect a wall switch from being accidentally switched

I needed to address all of these situations, and it has worked out well.  I have made the door interfere slightly with the hinge so that it stays in whatever position you place it in (unless force is applied). 

It is designed to fit over the North American-style single-gang wall plates.  And, can be installed in place of the existing plate and use the existing screws.  The entire assembly is snap-together, no hardware, fasteners or adhesives are required.

**IMPORTANT:**  As the wall plates of switch and electrical outlets are considered part of a flame enclosure it is important to use a flame retardant / self-extinguishing filament when printing parts to be used in electrical applications.   More information and links to some suitable filaments can be found here…

https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-with-flame-retardant-materials

and…

https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/prusament-petg-v0-jet-black-1kg

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = Should not be needed 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

It is important to note that Hinge is designed to print at a 45-degree angle as illustrated.

Assembly Notes

Assembly is fairly intuitive, press the hinge into the wall plate. Then flex the inside surface of the door edge over the ends of the hinge.

The post Wall Switch Cover / Baffle first appeared on logicalplanet.

After making my collapsing tree ball ornaments this week I could not help but create these. It seemed like just such a natural thing to do and several people asked for them. Basically, numbered tree balls so you can make your tree into an advent calendar-style game for your loved ones.

Of course, you will need a multi-filament printer (AMS) to make these. Once printed the balls simply fold open and closed to collapse or conceal a prize that you put inside.

The balls are 3.0″ (76mm) in diameter. I have made the balls from number 00 to 24.

The balls are 100% 3D printed and no hardware, fasteners, or adhesives are required.

Good simple fun. But give yourself lots of time to print them!

Printing

Your default slicer settings should be ok with the design except for a few minor adjustments. For sure you need to enable Arachne (automatic if you are using Cura) and also consider setting Walls Seams to random to avoid a seem.

Here are my recommended settings:

• Material: PLA
• Nozzle: 0.4mm
• Layer Height: 0.2mm
• Line Width: 0.4mm
• Wall Count: 2 (0.8mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count: Minimum 3
• Detect Thin Walls: ON
• Infill: 0%
• Ironing: Not required
• Brim: No, should not be needed. But if you are having trouble you can enable it – but it will create a lot of extra post-print processing for you to do.
• Support: No
• Wall Generator: Arachne
• Detect Thin Lines: Yes
• Wall Seams: Random (to avoid a seam)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated and as per 3MF files

Post Print Processing and Assembly Notes

After printing the ball sections can be difficult to separate for the first time. Using a thin flat and flexible blade like a feeler gauge works excellently to “unstick” the parts.

Rotation of the sections of the balls may be slightly more difficult the first time you attempt it. Take your time to twist the balls open and closed until the parts move easily. There are slight detents at the full opened positions to help keep the balls opened in equal proportions.

Also, note the 3 sections of each ball can be fully separated if needed to help clean and smooth them. Just squish the inner section to pull it out and then the next one. Squish them slightly to return them.

The post Advent Tree Ball Ornaments first appeared on logicalplanet.

As you know… I like to make functional things and I know it is a bit of a stretch to call a tree ornament functional but I think this is it. Collapsible and nestable tree ornaments!! I mean who doesn’t need to make their Christmas ornament storage more compact? And, these balls look awesome!

Not only can you print this version of Christmas tree ball ornaments, but they are super compact when collapsed so that you can put them away in a much smaller container than typically needed. Also, because they can be nested for storage, they can also be nested for printing meaning they are faster and easier to print in multiples.

So far, I have made 3 sizes pre-nested so you can drop them on the build plate and print. The balls are printed almost entirely of 0.8mm walls (2 wall thicknesses)making them durable and extremely light. The sizes and masses are as follows:
3.0″ (76mm) = 24g
2.4″ (61mm) = 16g
1.8″ (46mm) = 8

And, also, since the balls are hollow and open/close-able, you can hide treats or surprises inside them while on the tree (or wherever you hang them). Now that is just fun!

The balls are 100% 3D printed and no hardware, fasteners, or adhesives are required. Just add ribbon, string or hooks to attach to the tree.

Printing

These are super lightweight and print with a negligible amount of infill. So basically your print settings can be set to default except for a few notes…

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material: PLA
• Line Width: 0.4mm
• Wall Count: 2 (0.8mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count: Minimum 3
• Detect Thin Walls: ON
• Infill: 0%
• Ironing: Not required
• Brim: No, a version of the model is included with a single brim to help print stability if needed
• Support: No
• Wall Generator: Arachne
• Detect Thin Lines: Yes
• Wall Seams: Random (to avoid a seam)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As per the STL file

Post Print Processing and Assembly Notes

After printing the sections can be difficult to separate for the first time. Using a thin flat and flexible blade like a feeler gauge works excellently to “unstick” the parts.

Rotation of the sections of the balls may be slightly more difficult the first time you attempt it. Take your time to twist the balls open and closed until the parts move easily. There are slight detents at the full opened positions to help keep the balls opened in equal proportions.

Also, note the 3 sections of each ball can be fully separated if needed to help clean and smooth them. Just squish the inner section to pull it out and then the next one. Squish them slightly to return them.

The post Collapsible Nesting Tree Balls first appeared on logicalplanet.