Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Since it folds small and the blade is protected when closed, it is way more suitable for putting in a pocket, making it that much more convenient. I have also added a spot for a 10x3mm magnet to be inserted so you can stick it to things. In my case, I have steel shelves where I want to keep several of these handy.

The two parts of the assembly snap together and apart so that the handle can also hold the tools for installing and removing the blade.

Loading a blade is very similar to the prior knife design. It is pressed into the frame and retained by the same compliant tab, which has two nubs on it that engage the blade.

And, removing the blade uses the two prongs on the handle to release the blade from the compliant tab.

I have found there are lots of variants of this type of blade in the market, but in the US and Canada, the Stanley brand and size seem to be most prevalent. So please check the size for compatibility.

Overall, the new design is about the same length as the old model when open but 2/3 its size when folded closed.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Simply press the handle ring into the frame ring, and assembly is complete.

The post logical Utility Knife (v2.0) first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

The box can be used for a variety of applications, such as a pen box, a money box, to lock up your kid’s phone, or many other uses. I developed this for another specific application and my plan is to make insertable organizers that snap into the case.

Obviously, it is not super secure as the entire case is made of plastic. But as far as anyone getting into it without breaking, I feel it will be quite difficult.

Besides being a very thin lock and puzzle system, what makes the box unique is that you have to know a secret number to be able to open it. And, even if you know the secret number, there are multiple steps required to open the box. I can imagine in the future more lock dials so that it is truly a combination lock.

I have made a reasonably comprehensive instructions and operations manual for it, which is included with the download.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

All the print and post-print processing instructions are included in the PDF manual available with the download.

Assembly Notes

Please refer to the PDF instructions and operation manual included with the download.

The post PuzzeLock Box first appeared on logicalplanet.

These flags, luggage tags, and key tags can be coloured however you like.  All models are double-sided like a flag.  Of course, you need an AMS to print in multiple colours.  

I anticipate I will eventually post more flags, but if you are interested in a specific flag not already posted, please send me a message and I will prioritize it.

Most flags are 4 colours or less but a few have more colours and can not be printed on a 4-colour AMS.  However, you may be able to reduce the number of colours for your country.

All flags can be printed in whatever colours you choose.  For example, the grey-on-black or black-on-white options is up to you.

Small details on the key chain tag and luggage tag may not print well using a 0.4mm nozzle.  In that case, you can use a smaller nozzle and or scale up the model.  Please see my notes about scaling the models.

SCALING NOTES

When scaling the models be sure to do a non-uniform scale of just x and y.  Do not scale the Z-axis.  If you want to scale z, only scale it bigger and in multiples of your print layer height (which should be 0.2mm).

HOW TO PRINT

1. Import the model into your slicer.
2. Without disturbing the model, change the colour of each model object or component to your desired colour.
3. Group or merge the objects so that they do not shift or become misaligned.
4. Now you can scale, flip, and rotate if desired.

GENERAL NOTES

1. All of my flag models are designed based on each country’s official flag ratio.
2. An AMS is required to print these colour models.  Some flags have more than 4 colours.  
3. The models are designed for a 0.2mm layer height.
4. The height of all models is 1.6mm.  
5. The flag, luggage tag and key tag widths are all standardized to the following dimensions:

• Flag 240mm
• Tag 100mm
• Key 50mm

1. You can scale all the models as desired but be sure to group or merge the components of each model first before scaling, and only use non-uniform scaling; only scale x and y, do not scale z.
2. Each flag model has only 1 object or component for each colour allowing you to set the colors in your slicer very easily.  However, this will cause some slicer messages that you should be aware of.  See the “Slicer Error” notes below.
3. Small detailed flags might not be printable using a 0.4mm nozzle.  
4. Some flags have been simplified to make them more printable.  

IMPORTING TO YOUR SLICER

When Importing the file to your slicer, answer as indicated if you are asked any of the following questions…

Anycubic —————

“This file contains several objects positioned at multiple heights Instead of considering them as multiple objects, should the file be loaded as a single object having multiple parts?”  = NO (this keeps the parts located together)

“The dimensions of some objects from the file _____ seem to be defined in inches.  The internal unit of the program is a millimetre.  Do you want to recalculate the dimensions of these objects?”  = NO

OrcaSlicer —————

“The object from file ______ is too small and may be in meters or inches.  Do you want to scale to millimetres?” = NO

Bambu —————

“The object from file ______ is too small and may be in meters or inches.  Do you want to scale to millimetres?” = NO

SLICER ERRORS

I have used a design technique that allows all the objects in each model (flag) to be grouped and separated by a middle layer for strength.  This grouping allows you to easily set and change the model’s component’s colours.  However, this design approach will result in some slicer warnings and errors.  You can safely ignore the following warnings and errors when slicing this flag model:

• tool path conflict
• shared path
• unsupported runs

Below are specific errors for a few different slicers are shown here, you can ignore these errors when printing this flag model.

Anycubic —————

• “Error: Conflicts in G-code paths have been detected…” = IGNORE
• “Warning: Empty layer between…” = IGNORE
• “Warning: Detected print stability issues” = INGORE

OrcaSlicer —————

• “The object has empty layers between…” = IGNORE
• “____ is too close to others; there may be a collision when printing.” = IGNORE

Bambu —————

• “Warning: Objects can’t be printed for empty layer between…” = IGNORE
• “Warning: It seems object ____ has floating regions…” = IGNORE

This project was and is a lot of files to manage.  if you have any issues with a downloaded file, please let me know and I will address it.

Printing

Thin graphics designs such as this one generally will work well with your default slicer settings.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count (minimum) = 2 ( 2 x 0.4mm = 0.8mm walls )
• Top & Bottom Layer Count (minimum) = 3 ( 3 x 0.2mm = 0.6mm top & bottom )
• Infill = Not applicable
• Ironing = Optional (not needed)
• Support = None required
• Brim = NO
• MATERIAL: PLA (or ASA for outdoor use and increased life expectancy)

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Flags of the World first appeared on logicalplanet.

On the one hand, the MAC might be awesome because I could not find anything like a 2-axis caliper doing a quick Google search. On the other hand, if no one has made one before… there is probably a good reason. Nonetheless, I am pressing on with my multi-dimensional idea…

I began the design process by creating a simple but large caliper (200mm opening). I made the arms longer than typical (about 140mm). In addition, I made the sliding element (the “x-slide”) removable and also created a mounting feature in the x-slide that allows a thumbwheel to be added. I found the thumbwheel quite beneficial as sliding the x-slide along the plastic main x-axis was difficult to do in minute increments. And, I made the sliding element removable so that the entire assembly could be collapsed for storage. I also made the main x-axis component foldable. The folding idea trades compactness with effectiveness so I have created both folding and non-folding versions. But the folding version is just cooler.

By this point, I could see that precision was going to be limited (especially the folding version) but I could live with that. I am thinking around +/- 1mm accuracy if you take your time (+/-2mm or worse if you do not).

I initially had the idea of using magnets to attach my existing digital caliper to the MAC (piggyback it on) so it could give me a more accurate readout. But I removed that from the final design. It is not really needed because you can simply use the digital calipers to measure the opening on the MAC arms at any time if you want to. But because of flex and play, I don’t think I can get any kind of accuracy better than +/- 1mm so I just read the measurements off the printed scales I have incorporated into the design.

The non-folding versions obviously give much better accuracy so factor that into your choice of which to print. For what it is worth I am only using the folding version because, with patience and care, I feel I can get pretty decent measurements (aka good enough measurements) and keep the advantage of being able to fold it all up and put it away until needed again.

So the basic caliper became the starting point for which to add a Z-axis. Conceptually, it was quite straight forward but again making it useable and accurate (enough) is the challenge. I added a connector (the “X to Z Connector”) which slides along the x-axis and allows a z-axis to slide up and down inside that.

However, allowing the z-axis to slide makes using the entire assembly super difficult. So instead of leaving it to slide freely, I added detents every 5mm. So when mapping something vertically you set a height (say at 10mm) and then measure the x-axis. Shift the z and repeat. If there was a future improvement on this it would be to use a rack and worm gear – maybe one day if I have nothing else to do.

Even with the z-axis snapping into position the entire assembly was still super awkward because it wanted to fall over while I was focused on measuring and holding the object. So I added a snap-on and adjustable stand. The stand snaps onto the back of the z-axis and the legs can rotate forward to find an optimal position.

When using the caliper it is important to go slow and make sure you are finding the dimensions of anything you are measuring without stressing the caliper which would cause it to flex. Also, because of the folding components you need to carefully check that all the members are square when using the MAC. This means going slow and being methodical.

I started the idea as a “2D” caliper or a 2-axis caliper with long arms. But I could not resist the glory of saying “I have made the first 3-axis (and possibly the first 2-axis) caliper in the world”. Ok maybe just in “my” world but whatever – it is still pretty cool. Anyway… to do that I added a y-axis slide onto the x-slide and voila… the world’s first 3-axis caliper! I am not sure the 3rd axis has any meaningful usefulness but it is there and maybe it helps – maybe it doesn’t.

Thumbwheel: The thumbwheel is interesting. I originally tried to use a rack and pinion approach to move the x-axis but it was too cumbersome. In the end, I essentially mimicked the design on my digital caliper and while I am not sure why it works as well as it does – it works well. The thumbwheel is split and rides on either side of the x-axis. Pressing firmly while spinning it moves the x-slide.

Installing the thumbwheel involves inserting the arm on the thumbwheel assembly into the slot on the x-slide. A considerable amount of force is required to get it in as the arm is curved to prevent it from coming out after it snaps into place.

Interference in Slides: I have added some sprung interference into the slides. By doing this I was able to leave enough space in the slides to allow relatively smooth movement. The sprung interference tries to take up the slack so that the sliding element remains square to the frame. If this is too tight slide the sliding element back and forth a few times fast and it will effectively sand it down.

Folding vs. non-folding: As noted above, I have consciously traded a little accuracy to make the entire thing collapsible. Since I will use this infrequently, I want to be able to put it away somewhere until needed. But if you want the best this can be, print the non-folding parts.

Tolerances: Everything fits together pretty tight. So I recommend using my print settings as closely as you can. If the parts you print are loose then review your print settings and check you are not under-extruding. If the parts are too tight, try cleaning all the edges, and or sanding the tight areas.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I recommend something stiff, like PLA or ABS. But I have printed this all in PETG. The flex of PETG does not lend itself well to the accuracy of measurement. But I had PETG loaded already and it does work.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without additional support. All necessary support is designed in.

The thumbwheel has support that will be tight and therefore require needlenose pliers to remove. The tightness is intentional to make sure the gap in the thumbwheel mates with the edge of the x-axis.

During one print, I had the edge of the x-slide curl up from my print bed which is quite unusual with PETG. But because of that, I added a small pad at the end of the piece to help with bed adhesion and ensure the edge of the slide is straight. You can break that off after printing.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

The post Multi-Axis Calipers first appeared on logicalplanet.

The Kanger is a keyboard hanger which allows you to store your keyboard on the top back of your monitor to make more desk space. Totally designed out of need, I made this because my desk is just too cluttered and I was constantly looking for somewhere to put my keyboard.

I have not tried it on so many monitors to know it will fit all but I believe it will fit most. The top hook component has a depth of 25mm so as long as the top of your monitor is not more than that it should rest on your monitor well.

While the Kanger folds up and can be put away when not needed it really can just stay on your monitor so that it is there when you want to put your keyboard somewhere.

I have listed this as a product on my bukudesign.com site and as such I have an instructional graphic made which I will include here…

Printing

This is a one-piece print-in-place design with no support required. I am using a 0.4 nozzle with the line set to 0.45mm. With these settings, the detents and hinges print well. If you find them too loose try matching these settings. And please give me feedback if you have any.

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Support = Designed to print without supports.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot.

The post Kanger™ first appeared on logicalplanet.

Now I am beginning the daunting task of rebuilding it all. It will take some time but I am getting there. Once I have restored all my old posts I will add some new stuff and I have come a long way since my earlier posts. Wait for it!

Prior to this post I was designing in 2d and converting to 3d in Autocad. I used a low-cost JG Aurora A5S and A3S. Now everything has changed. I switched to Shapr3D which I can not say enough good things about. And, I am now printing on Vorons. I have 2 Voron 2.4r2 and I am absolutely in love with them. They print extremely well but more significantly, for me, because I built them from the ground up they are 100% serviceable by me. So when something goes wrong I am able to figure it out and get them back up and running with the help of the Voron community.

If you have the aptitude and you are looking for an awesome printer build a Voron.

The post Reboot!! first appeared on logicalplanet.

These just clamp onto the steel shroud around my sight glass. I have no idea how standardized those are so proceed with caution until you know if these fit (i.e. just print one). But if they fit, they work perfectly.

The post Sight Glass Marker first appeared on logicalplanet.