Since the design is almost identical for all the variants, I can make these into a wide range of dimensions. If I could use variables, these could be customizable in the slicer, but I have not mastered that skill yet. I design in Shapr3d, and variables are now available, so I hope that in the near future, that is something I can master.

I designed a small compliant part that extends along the inside side of the case and provides a “push-button” through a corresponding hole in the side of the case. There is a “post” on the inside side of the push-button which interferes with a post or tab on the inside of the lid. When the push-button is depressed, the compliant part flexes into the box and the two posts no longer interfere allowing the lid to be slid off.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = I used PLA, I am confident PETG or ABS would be fine too.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Brim = Should not be needed 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files

Assembly Notes

After printing, the smaller boxes have print support under the push buttons that needs to be removed. Then, I strongly recommend applying a small drop of synthetic lubricant onto the front corners of the lid as illustrated. The lubricant significantly improves the sliding of the lid.

Then assembly is as simple as snapping the lid onto the box. It is best done by placing the front corners of the lid on the box at an angle and then bringing it down flat onto the box as illustrated.

The post Small Boxes first appeared on logicalplanet.

I always have a lot of eyewear lying around and until now never had a way to organize in a way that I liked. For some time now I have known that hanging glasses vertically was the best way (in my opinion) to keep them at the ready. But I could not figure out a way to make that scalable. Well, here it is…

This simple two-part design gives you a single stand for a pair of specs but you can repeat that over and over again, snapping them together, to form a larger array of “stands”. I love it.

The design is super simple, the upright snaps into the base (permanently) and then bases can be snapped together (and later separated if needed).

When bases are snapped together they form a relatively solid base structure so that grabbing and removing any pair of glasses is easy to do without disturbing the other eyewear on the rack.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 40%, Cubic
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = None required
• Brim = NO
• Material: PETG or PLA recommended (any material should work fine)
• Print Orientation: As per STL file and shown below

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required. Just snap them together.

To separate the bases once they have been connected, pry them apart from the underside of the stands.

The post Eyewear Stands first appeared on logicalplanet.

The case is very simple and relatively easy to print. The lid and main body print separately and then snap together. Once the lid is closed it snaps closed to keep your glasses inside.

With inside dimensions of 155x46x32mm the case will hold most glasses and sunglasses.

Printing

Your default slicer settings should be ok with the design as all the walls and features are thin so 2 walls should suffice.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = minimum 2 ( 2 x 0.4mm = 0.8mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = minimum 3 ( 3 x 0.2mm = 0.6mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 15%
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = Is not required but support in the main body will give you a better inside finish
• Brim = Not required but can be beneficial when printing the main body (can use “Inside and Outside” if needed)
• MATERIAL: PLA or PETG (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated.

Assembly Notes

The lid snaps onto the main body at the hinge. The lid is designed to be snapped on at 90 degrees to the body (90 degrees from the closed position) as illustrated.

The post Eyewear Case first appeared on logicalplanet.