Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

The hook is rotatable and extends out for use and in for collapsing into the main body. The two side arm sections also fold into the main body for storage or travel.

This design uses compliant latches to hold the compartments closed. I might try to make a combination lock version in the future. And, a few people have requested a thicker body (bigger storage).

Once deployed, the hanger is full-size.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

The post StashHanger 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Lockable USB Cable Clasp – Version 2.0

Keep your cables secure and organized with this print-in-place cable clasp.
Designed to hold up to 4 cables, it can be used with or without a lock for added security.

Key Features

• 100% printed – no hardware required
• Print-in-place design, ready to use right off the printer
• Holds up to 4 cables neatly and securely
• Optional lock or zip tie for extra protection

Instructions

1. Lay in the cables
2. Fold the inner clasp over to hold them in place
3. Fold the outer clasp until it snaps closed
4. (Optional) Add a lock or zip tie through the enclosure for extra security

Print & Slicer Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

• Material: PLA, PETG, or ABS
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Walls: 4 (1.6 mm)
• Top/Bottom: 5 (1.0 mm)
• Infill: 40% Cubic (100% for maximum strength)
• Detect Thin Walls: On
• Wall Generator: Arachne
• Brim/Raft: No
• Support: None required
• Print Orientation: As per STL/3MF files

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

The post Lockable USB Cable Clasp Version 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

I reviewed a bunch of them out there in the market and tried to improve upon them. That may be subjective but I find this one to work extremely well. Simply lay a stem into the stripper using the slot closest to the size of the stem, squeeze closed the stripper, and pull the stem. So much better than using your finger when doing a large volume of plants.

Printing

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
Infill = 40%, Cubic
Ironing = OFF (not needed)
Support = All required support is designed into this product
Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
Material = Food grade PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
Print Orientation: As shown below.

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Herb Stripper first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have made two versions; a 3 bottle per layer version and a 2 bottle per layer version. The 3-bottle version requires a 300mm print bed, while the 2-bottle version can be printed on a 250mm bed.

These wine crates are made from only two parts; the fixed end walls and the folding side walls (you need two of each for each layer of the “crate”). These parts all snap together and then the completed structure folds to collapse for storage when not needed.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
No support needed.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

The post Wine Stackers – Folding Stackable Wine Crate first appeared on logicalplanet.

This folding scalpel is small, super light (about 8g) and handy. I have added a pressure point on the top of the blade which conventional scalpels do not typically have. This helps to give you a safe place to put your index finger and also allows you to comfortably apply pressure when cutting. It is important to note this knife, like all scalpels, is designed to be held like a pencil.

I really like the #18 blades and they are super cheap in quantity. This knife is specifically designed for the #18 blade. I have now made a modified version for the #24 blade also and will confirm if that works as soon as I get some #24 blades.

Since scalpel blades are inexpensive this folding scalpel makes a great, convenient and safe knife that you can keep handy at all times. And, it is designed to be re-used with new blades (as opposed to being disposable). But cheap enough to make that you can print a bunch.

At the heart of this product design is tolerances. This knife would be of little use if the pivot of the knife was loose. So I have designed it in such a way that the pivot should be very tight. Because of that and my experience with people occasionally telling me a design is too loose (or too tight), I have included 3 versions of the design with varying dimensions of the rotating point. There is one with 0.35mm gap in the radius, another with 0.40mm and a third with 0.45mm. The models are differentiated by dots on the handles indicating which one is which as follows:

• 1 dot – 0.35mm
• 2 dot – 0.40mm
• 3 dot – 0.45mm

I have tested the design on 6 printers, using 5 different brands/types of PETG. For me the 0.35mm (1 dot) was only useable with a mat finish material. The glossiest material I loaded in was eSun PETG and that one worked well with the 0.45mm gap. Using a medium gloss PETG it worked well with the 0.40mm gap. I recommend printing all three knives at once and see which one works the best for you. If you find they are all too loose you are likely under-extruding. And, if all of them fuse and are unusable you are likely over-extruding.

Printing

Because the rotating part of the knife is printed in place and in the closed position it is important to ensure you have ironing ON for all layers for this design. This will help to free the parts after printing.

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly is required (other than inserting a blade) but the design will be partially fused due to the close tolerances. So freeing the part to rotate can take a little bit of work initially. Please see my video for notes on how to get the part free.

The post Print-in-Place Folding Scalpel first appeared on logicalplanet.

When I created my first RagTag I was almost dead set on using hardware, bearings and fasteners almost just for the sake of it. I think I thought it would make a higher-quality consumer product. But it turns out it doesn’t and it just makes design more complex, assembly more difficult and costs higher. So after refining some of my related skills and designs I revisited the RagTag and created a new 100% printed version which is less complex, easier to assemble and lower cost to produce. I call that a successful redesign.

The Design

The key design elements in this project are the print-in-place pivot and hinge. Both needed to create freedom of movement while retaining strength. These elements (particularly the pivot) replaced hardware previously used in my original RagTag which is still selling on Amazon.

I also made the belt clip snap into the pivot core so that no fasteners were needed there either.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support. One piece of support is included in the design.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

Assembly is a two-step process. A. Remove the support which I have designed into the belt clip. And, B. Snap the two prongs on the belt clip into the core of the pivot on the main RagTag2 body. That’s it.

I have found that a drop of synthetic lubricant into the main pivot can improve its movement and reduce squeaks if they are present.

The post RagTag2 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Over the years I have tried many alternatives, none of which have lasted or been as convenient as this approach. The Make-A-Bowl folds extremely compact and then opens into a frame which holds a standard dog poop bag (approximately 8 inches across or larger). Together they form a 350ml (12oz) container.

After the “bowl” is used, the bag can still be used for its original purpose. And, because you use a new bag every time you use it, the Make-A-Bowl is always clean and free of other contaminants that could affect your pet.

The Design

When I first developed this I thought it had some real potential as it is such a great bowl. But since then I have come to realize – marketing is everything.

This design is extremely interesting because I stacked print in place hinges or pivot points so that the “box” folds onto itself on the two end axis. This I believe it quite unique and I thought at one point I might try to patent it but so far I have just submitted a provisional patent application.

Printing

The Make-A-Bowl prints-in-place as a single part. No fasteners, adhesives or hardware are required. But I do like a carabiner attached for convenience.

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

There is no assembly required but breaking the four wall’s hinges free after printing can take a little time. I try to flex all the joints in as many directions as possible first, then slowly pry the walls apart to rotate open the pivot points.

The post Make-A-Bowl first appeared on logicalplanet.

When I first started looking for venting and connection systems I was very surprised to find there is not much out there if you want a comprehensive system with a quick connect/disconnect and supporting brackets for mounting the venting lines. So… I developed one.

Introduction

My first design priority and the most difficult challenge was designing a quick connect/disconnect system that a) required only one hand to operate, b) allowed the hose to rotate on the connection to reduce tension in the hose lines, and c) was 100% printable (no hardware required and preferably print-in-place).

My secondary goals included a) making sure the system was reverse compatible with the old-school pipe clamps and b) incorporating a mounting strategy.

My resulting design achieves all of those goals. I am using it to vent 6 Vorons to the outdoors. I added a 120mm fan at the wall side to create negative pressure in the lines and assist the exhaust fans in the Vorons. All together the system works excellently. I am pretty confident it would be equally as effective for other applications including vacuum and dust collection systems.

The Quick Release Head is a single print-in-place part. I needed to design into it special support that allows the overhanging “teeth” to be printed parallel to the print surface.

All the other components of the system, I refer to as the accessories, are assembled from multiple sections and glued together. This allows very clean and crisp mating areas and consequently a very solid and fast connection between the parts.

So far I have created the following accessories:

• Straight Connector
• Y-Connector
• 6060 Fan Connector
• 120×120 Fan Connector
• 120×120 Fan-Wall Adapter
• Head Cap and Tube Cap
• 100mm and 200mm Extensions, and
• various mounting solutions (listed separately below).

I have not developed a blast door yet but if anyone wants it I can develop one. If there are any other specific add-ons you would like let me know and I will do my best to develop them.

How it Works

The connection between the Head and any accessory is made by teeth on the flex handles of the Head extending into the groove on the accessory. And, this is only secure because both parts have surfaces parallel to each other. With one hand you squeeze the handles and the teeth pull away from the centre of the accessory allowing it to be withdrawn. Letting go of the handles allows the teeth to return.

The cross-sectional view tries to illustrate this essential design component which then dictates how the parts are printed.

The Head requires some built-in support to create a precision lower edge that is overhanging and parallel to the print surface. I have included support that seems to work quite reliably and creates a relatively sharp edge that locks the accessory in (so do not add support when slicing this).

To achieve similarly sharp edges in the accessories they are printed in sections that must be glued together after printing. As the mating surfaces are designed to be very close gluing is very easy and effective.

Building the Accessories

Each of the Accessory Parts has a core component that defines its purpose and then you add to it one or more end rings. The diagram below describes it better than I can write it. In addition, a mounting ring is optional (but recommended) for the Y Connector. The mounting ring allows the Y Connector to be snapped into a wall mount. The Straight Connector has the mounting ridge included.

In addition to the components described above, extensions are also optional for all of the components. The extensions are 100mm and 200mm in length and can be stacked to whatever length you want. Using extensions can minimize the amount of flexible exhaust lines you need and also can be used to join accessories to create a manifold if desired.

The following is an example of how the extensions can be used to create a manifold. The benefit of this in my case is more structure to eliminate some of the movement in the entire system.

The Mounting System

I added an external ridge around the mountable components and then a snap-on mounting bracket that indexes on that ridge. I have made a wall mounting plate as well as a series of mounting brackets to go onto the heavy shelving I am using.

The wall mounting brackets, shown above, clamp onto the Accessory Parts using the ridge on the accessory to index with the groove in the wall mount clamp. The opening portion of the clamping bracket is print-in-place and no support is required.

I have also developed a mounting system for shelves which I will include in another posting about shelf accessories.

Wall Vent

In my situation, I wanted to vent to the outdoors and to do that I created a dual port manifold that sits onto a 120mm variable speed fan (connected to a smart/wifi switch). The fan pulls air out of the exhaust lines creating a slight negative pressure so that no smells escape the exhaust system even when no printer’s enclusure fan is running. The fan then connects to the wall via the Wall Vent Port which, in turn, connects to a 4″ duct exiting the wall to the outdoors. I just used a dryer-style vent cover on the outside.

Construction

I have created a numbering system which is used in the various diagrams in this posting to help identify the print parts for each accessory. Use those numbers to select the parts you need to print.

You will need to glue the accessory parts together after they are printed. And, depending on the material you print with you may need to find an effective adhesive. In my case, using PETG, the B7000 adhesive sourced from Amazon works really well. Apply a small bead of adhesive around the part as illustrated in the image above and give it a half turn. Then let it cure, in my case, overnight.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshots but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup: Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support: Designed to print without additional support.

Print Orientation: The following screenshots are included only to show print orientation.

The post LPE25 Quick Connect Exhaust first appeared on logicalplanet.