Over the last few years, toilet paper manufacturers have been steadily shrinking the inner cardboard core. That doesn’t sound like a big deal… until you realize that a lot of holders (especially simple or minimalist ones) rely on a fairly consistent core size to work properly.

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My original tank-mounted toilet paper holder worked great for years. Then suddenly rolls started falling off, rattling around, or just not fitting the way they used to. That’s what led to this second-generation redesign.

What Changed in Gen 2

The biggest difference in this version is the post itself.

Instead of relying on a rigid diameter that assumes all TP cores are the same, the Gen 2 design uses a compliant, flexible post that adapts to different core sizes — including the smaller modern ones. It grips the roll securely without binding and without needing springs, bearings, or hardware.

The rest of the design stays true to the original goals:

• Fully 3D printed
• No hardware
• No supports
• Simple, functional, and easy to print

It still mounts directly on the back of the toilet tank, keeping the roll accessible without drilling holes or installing wall brackets.

Single and Double Roll Versions

I’ve included both single-roll and double-roll variants.
The double version is surprisingly handy — not just as a backup roll, but also if you like having different paper types available.

Both versions use the same compliant post idea, so they handle modern rolls equally well.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

Why This Update Matters

This is a good example of why I like iterative, real-world design. Nothing about toilet paper holders is glamorous — but when something that used to work suddenly doesn’t, the fix needs to be simple, reliable, and durable.

Gen 2 exists because the world changed slightly, and the design needed to adapt.

Try It Out

If you’ve noticed rolls slipping off older holders or not fitting the way they used to, this version should solve that problem cleanly. As always, feedback is welcome — especially if you run into edge cases or unusual roll sizes.

The post Toilet Paper Holder 2 first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The hook is rotatable and extends out for use and in for collapsing into the main body. The two side arm sections also fold into the main body for storage or travel.

This design uses compliant latches to hold the compartments closed. I might try to make a combination lock version in the future. And, a few people have requested a thicker body (bigger storage).

Once deployed, the hanger is full-size.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

The post StashHanger 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

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When I designed the first crates, my skills were too limited to make these new ones. But it is very gratifying to now be able to design and print a 100% printed, snap-together, strong, modular system for organizing things, such as in a freezer, in a pantry or just on the shelf.

This crate system has multiple wall lengths so you can make crates of varying lengths. And, what’s more, I have now made 3 widths so you can file almost any width or depth of shelf.

The crate Ends are identical and allow walls to be snapped into them through a vertical channel on the back side. The walls can be removed and changed by releasing a small tab which locks the wall into place when in use.

A Connector is also available that allows walls to be joined end to end between the End components, allowing the crate to be extended.

Different wall lengths can be combined to create an almost unlimited range of total crate lengths.

Crates that are the same width and length are also stackable.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height.

It is important to note that some wall sections exceed the common 250x250mm print bed size.

Assembly Notes

The post Logical Crate System first appeared on logicalplanet.

If you know anything about me it is probably that I like lockable containers, puzzles and complex things that are interesting and fun. The BinaryBin pressed all the buttons for me as I started designing it. It is super fun.

The truth though is that I have not used binary and hex for so long I could barely get my mind going but once I did it all came back to me. And, that felt really good.

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This BinaryBin is about 1 litre in size and features a single-piece base that is secured by the lift of the top. However, the top can only be lifted off when the correct binary code is used by setting the switch values. With a 16 bit code there are 65,536 possible combinations.

I feel one of the most fun aspects of this lockable container is that the 16-bit combination can be saved as a hexadecimal number which means you need to do some conversion and exercise that skill. That adds another layer of “security” to it. So it could be a great teaching (and learning) tool also.

The design uses a planetary gear approach so that the centre gear (the sun gear) is the handle and can be turned if the correct code is selected on the switches. And, when it turns it rotates the ring gear which has the lock latches on it. Therefore, once turned, the lid of the container can be opened and when returned to its original position the lid can be locked again.

I feel the pop-up and lay flat centre hand is a good design that I will likely use again in the future. It makes for a tidy finish when not in use.

Setting the lock combination involves choosing a “0” or “1” switch when assembling the lid. Each of the switches represents one bit of the combination.

I have included TPU bumpers which are entirely optional. I feel they give the container a more rugged look and a bit more finish.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Please see the following video for assembly instructions:

There is one piece of support to be removed after printing as illustrated here.

The post BinaryBin first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The sides and ends of the CardDock assembly rotate freely and are positioned off-centre so that their own mass causes them to flop outward. Once cards are placed on them they swing back and at the same time force the cards into the centre of the base. Simple.

I also designed a lid that could be popped onto the base for card storage in a drawer or something like that. And, the lid can also be used as another card holder. Or as a stand to place the CardDock on. The stand is not a necessary function but sometimes it can be helpful.

I have also now added hard cases for the whole line of card docks. The cases come in two styles, one is a simple 1-piece sleeve and the other is a hard sleeve with bumpers and or caps so you can complete

And, I have created a bunch of variants. Please look through my collection on Thangs.com for all the existing versions. Here is a listing of the specific variants and links to their postings.

Print Settings

Assembly Notes

Assembly is quite simple but it is important to note that the Side and End parts must be installed into the base from directly above (a vertical direction). Once the parts are rotated they are designed to be self-contained in the base.

The post CardDock and Crib first appeared on logicalplanet.

The idea is to place this on the wall near a mirror somewhere accessible before going out. Lipsticks (and similar) go in with their end label showing and individually organized so any one can be accessed.

In addition to the 26 pockets, a large open tray on the bottom as well as another open tray on top leave plenty of room for oversized items.

The unit could be stuck to the wall using 3M Command Strips or similar but I wanted to screw it to the wall so I added some keyhole style mounting slots on the back side. I am only using the top two but there are four provided.

My wife has quite a range of lipsticks to organize in this unit so I tried to make the depth vary a little to accommodate small (shorter) ones compared to the longer sticks. The intent is that each lipstick sits out just far enough to be grabable.

Printing and Print Settings

The model will fit on a 250mm print bed, but… it is tight. To get it to be printable, I used the “auto orient” feature in my slicer to get it just at the right angle to fit the bed of smaller machines with a 250x250mm size.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA or PETG
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

Nothing to assemble. Just mount it on the wall.

The post Lipstick on the Wall first appeared on logicalplanet.

Since the design is almost identical for all the variants, I can make these into a wide range of dimensions. If I could use variables, these could be customizable in the slicer, but I have not mastered that skill yet. I design in Shapr3d, and variables are now available, so I hope that in the near future, that is something I can master.

I designed a small compliant part that extends along the inside side of the case and provides a “push-button” through a corresponding hole in the side of the case. There is a “post” on the inside side of the push-button which interferes with a post or tab on the inside of the lid. When the push-button is depressed, the compliant part flexes into the box and the two posts no longer interfere allowing the lid to be slid off.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = I used PLA, I am confident PETG or ABS would be fine too.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Brim = Should not be needed 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files

Assembly Notes

After printing, the smaller boxes have print support under the push buttons that needs to be removed. Then, I strongly recommend applying a small drop of synthetic lubricant onto the front corners of the lid as illustrated. The lubricant significantly improves the sliding of the lid.

Then assembly is as simple as snapping the lid onto the box. It is best done by placing the front corners of the lid on the box at an angle and then bringing it down flat onto the box as illustrated.

The post Small Boxes first appeared on logicalplanet.

I wanted to extend my workspace by clamping onto the edge of my desk. But I did not want to make another screw clamp-style accessory. Nothing wrong with screw clamps, but I don’t like them. I decided early on that I wanted my design to be adjustable, modular and quick. I wanted to be able to make various accessories I could use it with. Here is what I came up with… the ClampDock.

I have always really loved storage and organizational systems and finding unused space that we can put to good use. I think I have done that with this system. I have only created a few accessories so far but I imagine that will increase over time.

The Main part of the ClampDock has a series of notches on the back and sides which mate with protrusions on the Slider (and on the accessory to be attached). All of the notches are at 3mm intervals.

Of course, the entire assembly is 3D printed, no hardware, fasteners or adhesives are required. However, I did need to use some TPU-95A parts to help improve the “grip” on the desk surface. There are two flat “grippers” (“Slide Grips”) for the top surface. These are designed to reduce slippage. There are also two grippers for the bottom (underside) surface (“Compression Grips”) which also help reduce slippage but these ones are also designed to compress. The compression allows the clamp to squeeze the table aggressively without snapping the printed parts.

Squeezing the sides of the Slider disengages the protrusions on the Slider from the notches on the Main so that it can be slid up or down the Main. Sliding it up so that it closes the gap to whatever you are clamping to position it for clamping. Then when as close as the 3mm spacing will allow, you swing the Lever down and force the clamp mechanism into operation.

The Lever pivots on the inside (underside) of the Slider, and when rotated, a cam protrusion on the end of the Lever swings vertically into the path of the compliant sections of the Slider. This creates compression of the edge you are clamping to. The Compression Grips compress under the clamping action to create a compliant grip.

When the Lever is in the vertical state (clamped), the sides of the Slider can not be depressed, effectively locking the Slider into place on the Main.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG, TPU-95A for the grips.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = Should not be needed 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Post Printing and Assembly Notes

There should be minimal post print work to do on the ClampDock other than assemble it as described below. However, a little care is required for the accessories. Firstly, depending on the accessory and how it is printed, there is a small piece of support (shown in the illustration below) which must be removed. And secondly, the ends of the protrusions that the print support assists need to be crisp and free of burrs. It is important to review the protrusions after printing to ensure they will engage the notches in the Main.

Please refer to the accompanying illustrations for the instructions.

Once the ClampDock is assembled, you can slide in or out accessories. It is best to slide the accessory in from the top of the Main and flex the Tab [C] away from the Main to allow it to slide into position. And, flex it again to remove the accessory. The one way locking actions means you can always slide accessories into the bottom of the ClampDock and stop at the desired position, and then continue sliding it up and out to remove it. However, this can take a toll on the small protrusions that create the lock positions so it is best to use the tab to remove the accessory.

The post ClampDock System first appeared on logicalplanet.

The case is very simple and relatively easy to print. The lid and main body print separately and then snap together. Once the lid is closed it snaps closed to keep your glasses inside.

With inside dimensions of 155x46x32mm the case will hold most glasses and sunglasses.

Printing

Your default slicer settings should be ok with the design as all the walls and features are thin so 2 walls should suffice.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = minimum 2 ( 2 x 0.4mm = 0.8mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = minimum 3 ( 3 x 0.2mm = 0.6mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 15%
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = Is not required but support in the main body will give you a better inside finish
• Brim = Not required but can be beneficial when printing the main body (can use “Inside and Outside” if needed)
• MATERIAL: PLA or PETG (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated.

Assembly Notes

The lid snaps onto the main body at the hinge. The lid is designed to be snapped on at 90 degrees to the body (90 degrees from the closed position) as illustrated.

The post Eyewear Case first appeared on logicalplanet.

What I learned through this project is that the silicone covers need to be very clean in order to work well, therefore a clean case and the ability to wash and dry them with minimal handling is critical to their function. And, what is better, if you keep them clean they can last almost indefinitely (as opposed to about 10 uses when not kept clean).

So in addition to creating separate storage for each cup, I have created space for airflow and the ability to store the trays separately, in their natural shape, and allowing air to circulate for drying them. Then once dry you can snap the layer together and even use this case for travel.

Commercial Opportunity

I was selling this on Amazon for a while and it sold quite well without any advertising or promotion on my part. I believe there is a substantial market out there for this product.

Instructions

Printing

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.
Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
Infill = 40%, Cubic
Ironing = OFF (not needed)
Support = No support required
Brim = NO (If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
Material = PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
Print Orientation: As shown below.

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post BoobyTrap first appeared on logicalplanet.