Download Scraper A (Affiliate Link)
Download Scraper B (Affiliate Link)

Overview

A better scraper for 3D printing beds — no screws, no stripped holes, no fuss. The Logical Scraper series solves the two biggest problems with printed scraper handles: stripped fastener holes and multi-piece assembly. Both models use a tool-free design and accept standard 32 mm × 23 mm scraper blades.

What It Is & How It Works

Model A — 2 Piece, Adjustable Angle

The engineer’s scraper. Model A is a two-piece snap-together design with five interchangeable blade holders at angles of 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 degrees. The handle and blade holder click together using printed hooks and a positive index feature that confirms the holder is fully seated before use.

• 2 pieces — handle + interchangeable blade holder
• 5 blade angle options: 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 degrees
• No screws — snap-together only
• Blade holders swap without tools
• Positive index confirms full seating

Model B — 1 Piece, No Assembly

The minimalist’s answer. One piece. Print it. Install the blade. Done. After designing Model A, I challenged myself to eliminate assembly entirely — no hooks, no indexing, no sliding parts. The blade wedges directly into the handle, and an inspection window lets you confirm full seating before you put it to work. Selectable blade angles are four separate variants: 13, 14, 15, and 16 degrees, with the angle embossed on the handle so you always know which one you’re holding.

• 1 piece — handle and blade holder are a single printed part
• 4 blade angle options: 13, 14, 15, 16 degrees
• No screws — blade installs directly into the printed slot
• Inspection window confirms blade is fully seated
• Angle embossed on handle — always know which variant you’re holding

Key Parts & Mechanisms

• Blade slot — precision-fit channel sized for standard 32 mm × 23 mm scraper blades
• Snap hooks (Model A) — printed hook-and-index system; positive click confirms full seating
• Inspection window (Model B) — confirms blade is fully inserted before use
• Embossed angle label (Model B) — angle is cast into the handle so you never guess which variant you’re holding
• No screws — no stripped holes, ever

Which Angle Should I Print?

I’ve tried them all and find 15 degrees to be the sweet spot for most print removal tasks — but your preference may vary depending on your bed surface and material. Start with 15° and experiment from there.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

• Material: PETG recommended; PLA also works
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Walls: 4 (1.6 mm)
• Infill: 40%
• Support: None required
• Print Orientation: As per the included 3MF/STL files

Post-Print Setup — Blade Installation

The scraper blade is extremely sharp and capable of causing serious injury. Handle the blade with pliers only — never bare hands.

For Model A: snap the blade holder into the handle until you feel the index click, then use pliers to press the blade firmly into the holder slot until it seats fully.

For Model B: use pliers to press the blade into the slot from the open end. Check through the inspection window to confirm the blade tip is fully seated before use.

Where to Get My STL Files

All my designs are available on Thangs.com.

Use, Licensing, Comments and Feedback

Some of my designs are only available for free for 1 week from when first posted, so please download them when you see a new file available that you are interested in. Also, please like and save the file too as it helps with my ratings.

I do not permit the use of my designs for commercial purposes (i.e. you can not sell my design(s) or products printed from my design(s)) without first acquiring a commercial license from me. On Thangs.com I offer membership accounts for access to all my design files as well as a membership for commercial licensing which allows subscribers to sell printed products using my designs.

I welcome comments and feedback as well as requests for customization of designs. I will do my best to accommodate reasonable requests.

The post Logical Scraper – 3D Printed Bed Scraper (Model A & B) first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

This is a direct replacement for the commercially made ones and serves the exact same purpose: covering a hole in your wall material. Sometimes, you need to cut into your wall and keep the opening, and other times, I am just too lazy to fill the hole permanently. Either way, this snap-in panel is fantastic. It looks good and draws no attention.

Operation is simple: just press the sliding edge of the snap-in panel onto one side of an 8-inch x 8-inch hole, and compress the compliant spring far enough that you can rotate the panel and get the fixed edge of the snap-in panel into the hole. Release the spring pressure, and the panel is held into the hole by the remaining spring tension.

The compliant spring system is quite robust, but I nonetheless recommend printing the spring part with PETG. PLA worked fine in my testing,g but I do not know if it will perform as well over time.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG for the panel, PETG for the spring part.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

After printing, the parts go together as illustrated.

The post Snap-in Access Panel first appeared on logicalplanet.

So I didn’t have much interest in printing filament samples (swatches) for many years because I didn’t like swatch systems that I saw. I also used only 1 or 2 brands of filament initially too which meant there was not so much to keep track of. But that has all changed now, I started to realize that it was a huge mistake not printing samples. After about 10 years of 3d printing I have used a lot of filaments and some that I can not track down now. So I decided it was time to figure out a swatch system that worked for me. And, this is it…

In this system, you print a holder along with or for every swatch card you print and voila… you have a scalable system that grows with each sample printed. I initially wanted to print each holder in the filament colour specific to that swatch. But then I thought, that would make me crazy constantly re-arranging swatches as I print new colours (because they obviously have to be in a methodical order). So I tried making the holders all one colour. And, I like that but subsequently made the interconnection of the holders more robust and have gone back to printing the holders with the swatch and rearranging them as needed. And, that has worked out well. I feel really good about it.

The cards are 80mm x 40mm so they print quickly but are large enough to make it possible to really see the colours. Each card is 1.6mm thick but has sections to evaluate opacity at 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm and 1.4mm. The trays are 3mm thick so it leaves a small gap to help grab the sample cards when needed. I also included a detent so the cards do not all fall out as you move the set around.

Because the base (holder) pieces snapped together, you can re-arrange them, expand or remove samples whenever you want. I have also included optional end walls for each end (male and female) to make it look a little more finished. And, an optional middle wall to help separate material types or other categories if you choose.

I recommend writing on each as follows:

• Brand
• Type
• Colour
• Print Date (optional)
• Machine it was printed on (optional)

I organize my different materials in different sets. For example, my PLA set is separate from my PETG set.

As for colour organization, obviously you can do it however you want, but I recommend the following visually intuitive and pleasing sequence:

White → Light Grey → Dark Grey → Black → Red → Orange → Yellow → Green → Blue → Purple → Brown → Specialty Colors (like metallics or translucent)

Assembly Notes

No post-print processing is required. Just snap the pieces together.

The post Modular Scalable Filament Swatch System first appeared on logicalplanet.

This through-wall venting port has two flap sets so that it is “double insulated” and more resistant to insects and other would-be assailants. I have been using this for a year or so but only now just posting it as I have had several requests recently.

The idea is that on the outside wall, you mount a 4″ duct plate that connects to a 4″ pipe through the wall, and onto which the double-flapped vent mounts.

On the inside, another 4″ duct plate, which connects to the other end of the pipe through the wall, and, on to which you can mount a variety of headers and or an inline fan to assist the exhaust system.

As you have probably seen from my earlier postings, I like having negative pressure in my exhaust system to ensure no leakage and assist the exhaust fans on my various printers. In this case, I have designed it for a low-cost 120x120x25mm inline fan.

The inside headers are designed to work with my quick-connect exhaust and other components so you can build out the system however you choose.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 40%, Cubic
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Wall Generator: Arachne (If you are using Cura this is automatically enabled by default)
• Detect Thin Walls = Not needed but good to keep ON
• Support = NO, all required support is designed into this product
• Brim = NO
• MATERIAL: ASA or PETG recommended
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As per the STL files

Assembly Notes

Please refer to my video for assembly instructions and other notes.

The post Double Flap Through Wall Vent first appeared on logicalplanet.

There are at least 3 things that are critical to the durability and therefore functionality of the knife. They are blade geometry, material selection (for the blade) and speed of use of the knife.

The blade geometry is quite interesting. A sharper blade edge is obviously nicer to use but at the same time is inherently less durable. So I have included 3 versions (geometries) you can select from depending on how you want to use the knife. I have been using the double-sided 45-degree edged blade the most and very successfully. I have also included a single-sided 45-degree edge and a single-sided 33-degree edge. The 33-degree edge is so fine that it can only be used for cutting thin films when a strong filament is used. But I wonder how long it will be before we can 3d print in metal or metal-like materials. Which material you plan to use as well as how you plan to use the knife also plays into the blade selection.

Material selection is pretty straightforward… you want to use the strongest and highest temperature filament you have. In my case, I used an ABS (actually eSun ABS+) and it was quite successful so I have not tried anything stronger. I do have a few different carbon fibre-enforced materials that I have never used and thought I would try them for this but so far I have not. But that might be another way to improve the durability and strength of the blade. As I noted above, if you can print with metal then that would obviously be the best solution.

Lastly, how you plan to use the knife is more important than you might initially think. Of course, a plastic knife is not a great solution for most knife applications. But cutting relatively thin materials such as box tape to open packages received from online shopping or opening envelopes is quite suitable. In fact, cutting rolls of thin films like plastics and paper is also another good application. However, the speed at which you use the blade is also a major deciding factor in the knife’s appropriateness. Cutting through a box at full speed will melt PLA for sure and the knife will only survive a few uses regardless of the blade geometry.

The entire knife prints as 3 pieces. The blade and 2 halves make up the handle. One of the halves has an integrated compliant spring which provides the safety detent for the blade in the open and closed position.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 40%, Cubic
• Ironing = ON, Everywhere (to assist in separating the layer components)
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = All required support is designed into this product
• Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
• MATERIAL: PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION:

Assembly Notes

No post-print processing is required. To assemble it, simply align the parts as shown and press them together.

The post Folding Box Opener Knife first appeared on logicalplanet.

This wedge operates in two ways allowing it to accommodate an under-door gap from 8mm to 60mm. It is thin, light and strong making it ideal for any handyman or tradesperson who needs a door wedge with them.

It is a print-in-place design that requires nothing after printing. Simply take it off the build plate and put it to use.

Simply fold the two sides together (they are limited to 100° angle) and stand it up under a door. Pull the door onto it and voila! The door is stopped.

I used a 15° angle for the stop which creates a fairly low rise making it easy to wedge under doors. But that slow rise means one side does not cover a very large range – only 8mm to 35mm. So I made it two-sided allowing the second side to carry on with an additional range for holding more doors – 33mm to 60mm.

Printing

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility
Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
Infill = 100% for maximum strength (minimum 40%, Cubic)
Ironing = OFF (not needed)
Support = No support required
Brim = NO (If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
Material = PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
Print Orientation: As shown below.

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Folding Door Wedge first appeared on logicalplanet.

This new XL model has the same basic design as the non-XL but it is effectively 11mm longer.

Besides the XL version being longer, both models of the Folding Scalpel now have improved geometry where the spring interacts above the pivot point which tightens the knife in the open and closed position. In addition, I have added a detent in the closed position. Both of these revisions are intended to help keep the knife closed when in your pocket.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without additional support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required. There is one piece of support that needs to be removed as shown in the accompanying illustration.

The post Folding Scalpel XL first appeared on logicalplanet.

At least for me, it is very common to design something that I think is pretty good only to redesign it later and then wish I hadn’t posted the earlier design. This is one of those. This folding scalpel pocket knife is very good IMHO. I made numerous design improvements that all resulted in simply a better knife.

Like the first version I released a month or so ago, this version is also a print-in-place design that requires no hardware, fasteners or adhesives. But what really makes this one so much better is…

1. I made it slightly larger to accommodate the entire range of #4 handle scalpel blades. Including up to the 60A (or equivalent SwitchBack) blade. I have tested it with all the blades shown in the illustration below.
2. This slightly larger design made it possible for me to strengthen the knife in many critical areas. And, as you know a few extra layers of print can really make a difference in strength and in this case, it has.
3. The increased size and strength is complimented by an indexed spine mating with the blade side of the knife. This helps to reduce the side-to-side play in the knife.
4. I created an offset of the radii in the pivot point. This is best understood by looking at the illustration below. I offset the internal radii so that in the print position there is a modest clearance of 0.5mm between the parts to ensure they do not fuse. But when the part is rotated 90 degrees the clearance is reduced to 0.3mm. This tightens the pivot at the fully open and closed positions. Creating a better feel and of course a better functionality.

Overall I feel this is a pretty good inexpensive and basically disposable/recyclable scalpel that I just might find myself using for a long time.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without additional support. I have designed in one piece of support as shown in the accompanying illustration.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required other than removing the one piece of support. Carefully break the blade end of the knife free by rotating back and forth on the pivot point. Install a scalpel blade.

The post Folding Scalpel 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have to admit this is one of those unnecessarily complex designs that border on a “contraption”. But my intentions were good… I wanted to make a fun desktop scalpel station as a kind of desktop widget. And, I wanted it to achieve the following:

• Hold a scalpel
• Automatically remove and capture the scalpel blade
• Assist with the blade installation,
• Provide somewhere to store scalpel blades, and
• Be a fun desktop widget all at the same time.

I think I have achieved all my design objectives. The end result is fun and very useful but also a great way to show off your 3D printing skills. This is quite intricate and demonstrates interesting features of 3D printing.

In the course of designing this and my folding scalpel, I learned quite a bit about scalpel blades and have now changed my preferences. But I wanted this to be able to accept any blade and still work reliably. Although I now prefer #22 and #24 blades I have tested this Scalpel Station with #18, #20, #21, #23 and also 60A (and switchback blades). Now that I know all of these blades work in the Scalpel Station I suspect all blades for #4 handles will work. If you find one that doesn’t please let me know.

Instructions

Using the Scalpel Station is pretty easy and straightforward. Maybe not intuitive but easy nonetheless. Simply make sure the scalpel is fully inserted, squeeze the Station together (you should feel a click) and then pull out the scalpel. In order to pull out the scalpel you will need to hold the Base. This is easiest done by simply placing one finger on the Base to hold it down.

Printing

I have tested this in PETG and ABS+. I have designed into place supports where needed and also added extra size to some of the supports to assist in build-plate adhesion (for ABS+ and PLA) printing.

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without additional support. All required support is incorporated into the design.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Post Print and Assembly Notes

There are several small supports that are built into the design and need to be removed post printing. They are all shown in the accompanying illustration.

Assembly is straightforward as illustrated in the accompanying image. The Release must be installed before the Receiver. But both the Receiver and the Release can be removed fairly easily if needed. However, the Slide is designed to stay on the Base with about 10mm of free play. Removing it is possible but not recommended.

Future

I think I could experiment with a magnet in the Base near the blade storage area to help hold spare blades into the Base. However, it will take some care because I would need to be sure the same magnet would not prevent an extracted blade from falling out of the Base when the Release is pressed. We will see.

The post Desktop Scalpel Station with Auto Blade Extract & Capture first appeared on logicalplanet.

These Tool blocks allow you to configure the storage specific to your needs and also to adjust the configuration over time. The idea is that all the tools you need on your workbench are organized and indexed for quick and convenient access.

The blocks are all the same outside width so that they can be joined together using a pair of small Connectors and form an aesthetically pleasing form to contain your hand tools. The Connectors just slide up into the bottom of the blocks and stay in place with a simple friction fit. The Blocks can then be slid onto the Connectors to join blocks together.

Of course, you select and print only the blocks you need based on the tools you want to store. All blocks are defined by the inside dimensions of the opening in which tools sit.

I have made a bunch of block sizes based on what my needs were. Please send me a message if you would like another block size and I will create it.

I created one open tray with a moveable divider so that I could place things like thread locker and lubricant bottles into it. And, I also created the end tray so that I have somewhere to drop small miscellaneous parts like screws. Of course, all of these are optional based on your needs.

Printing

All the parts are straight forward to print except for the connectors. They are printed standing up. To improve their printability I connected them with a small skirt like structure which should break away cleanly after printing.

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = Optional

Supports:
No support is required.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

The post Tool Blocks first appeared on logicalplanet.