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GearBin is a fully 3D printable mini trash bin with a unique mechanical twist. Designed for use with biodegradable dog waste/poop bags as liners, it’s the ideal solution for food scraps, backyard clean-up, BBQ prep, or anywhere you want a tidy, compact bin that works smarter – even your desk.

I chose to use biodegradable dog waste/poop bags for this because they are a fraction of the cost of biodegradable kitchen bags and smaller so you can discard them more frequently at a lower cost.  

Our issue is we do not want to waste the more expensive biodegradable kitchen bags so we try to use them for several days. But by the end of a few days the kitchen waste can start to smell to then you throw it away without filling the bag… wasteful. So back to the small dog poop bags that are much lower cost and the right size for daily discarding.

The GearBin could be ideal for a wide range of applications including:

• Office or desk
• Kitchen countertops
• Outdoor prep areas and BBQ stations
• Composting and daily food waste
• Eco-conscious homes using dog poop bags for liners

The main features of the design are:

Gear-Driven Push Lid:
Open the lid with a simple press on the front bar—no electronics, just clean, mechanical magic.

Folding Liner Frame:
The innovative push-push mechanism folds the bag frame inwards for easy loading and unloading of liners. Holds standard dog poop bags securely.

100% Snap-Fit Assembly:
No glue, screws, or springs. Just print, snap together, and you’re ready to go.

Optional Bucket Insert:
Use with or without a removable bucket insert (included) to catch leaks and assist with liner removal.

I watched a reel promoting a small garbage bin with a folding frame to make it easier to install the liner bag. I thought that was a great idea so that is what I did too. But I made it using a push-push style so you can press it once to collapse the frame and then again to open it once the bag is installed. And, you can do the same to remove the bag.

I have also included a bucket that sits in the GearBin and essentially creates a safe space for the bag. It makes sure the bag can be pulled out from the GearBin even if it is jam-packed. And, that in the event the bag breaks or leaks you have a containment system. But the bucket also means you can use the GearBin without a bag.

I have included some exploded diagrams to help visualize what the GearBin is but to assemble it, you need to watch my instructional video linked at the bottom of this post.

Print Settings

You can print everything in PLA but you should consider printing the spring components in PETG. I have identified those in the print settings table below.

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

I have linked my assembly instructional video below, so please check that out. But also note there are a few pieces of print support to be removed after printing.

The Lid has a small strip of print support that sits under the print-in-place hinge. So look for that as you loosen the hinge after printing.

As well the Bucket has print support on each side to create the handle holes. Carefully break those free before using.

If you are building the GearBin you will definitely need to watch the following assembly instruction video…

The post GearBin™ – Mini Mechanized Trash Bin first appeared on logicalplanet.

Essentially it is a one-handed single pill dispenser that I can grab in the dark and get a pill out without sitting up. I am sure it would be good for people with limited use of an arm too.

The dispensing mechanism is a one-piece compliant spring and gate that holds a single pill. The pill is then released to gravity when the spring is compressed. When the spring is allowed to return (by releasing it) it should pick up another pill and be ready for the next dispensement.

I have made a small door in the lid that allows pills to be added when rotated open. And, a compliant latch on the inside of the lid prevents that door from accidentally opening. To open the door you must first press the button on the side of the lid and then rotate the door open.

Print Settings

As always with compliant mechanisms it is prudent to use PETG for the spring. I have not tried the spring in PLA; I am sure it will work but not be as good or durable. All the other parts I did in PLA.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material
  • PETG for the spring mechanism
  • PLA for all other parts
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required but see the note below about cleaning up the bridge.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Post Printing and Assembly Notes

The opening in the Spring Mechanism controls the delivery of a single pill. In order to prevent 2 pills from jamming the mechanism I designed it to fit a pill bby having a bridge over the top. Depending on how well your printer is bridging you may need to clean that up as shown below using a knife to ensure that the pills flow through that “tube” easily.

On the

On the inside of the Lid, there is a compliant latch that prints into the lid. As such, you will need to gently separate the moving part of that latch after printing. The illustration below shows the area that needs to be separated (highlighted in red).

After that, the parts nest and snap together as shown in the exploded diagram.

The post Pill Dropper first appeared on logicalplanet.

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Now, I know not everyone likes the idea of printing guns of any kind, but some of my fondest childhood memories are of playing with toy guns with my then best friend, Simon.  We played for hours, days and in fact years and exercised our imaginations with great delight.  So, it is no wonder today that a toy gun still brings me some enjoyment.  This c9kinetic projector is something I would have loved to play with back then (and I still love it now).  

The design is simple and requires only a frame/housing to provide structure, a spring to store and release energy, a trigger to hold and release the spring and a barrel to hold and guide a projectile.  For comfort, I have added a folding grip and two other small components that hold the two sides of the frame/housing together.  

The c9kinetic Projector is a unique and compact toy that demonstrates the principles of compliant spring designs. It is capable of launching small plastic projectiles using the elastic energy stored in a specially designed compliant spring. The mechanism is powered by a 1-piece, 2-stage, 2-layer spring, which allows for a compact and less flat design inspired by the well-known BYU “One-Piece Compliant Mechanism Disk Launcher”.

This toy is entirely 3D printed and is a snap-together assembly—no hardware, fasteners, or adhesives are needed.

The spring is “charged” (compressed) by rotating the barrel 90 degrees, allowing you to load a small projectile into the back of the barrel. The barrel stays in place thanks to a compliant locking system on top of the c9kinetic, which can be released by gently pulling back on the lock with your thumb. When the barrel is rotated back down, the system automatically re-locks.

Additionally, the grip is foldable, allowing you to reduce the overall size of the c9kinetic Projector for convenient storage.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Material & Infill =
  • 301 Spring = PETG 100% infill
  • 9×20 projectiles = PLA 100% infill
  • All other components = PLA 40% (Cubic) infill
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

After printing, be sure to remove the print support, as illustrated in the following illustration.

Assembly is described in the following 2 images.

The post c9kinetic Projector first appeared on logicalplanet.

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This is a direct replacement for the commercially made ones and serves the exact same purpose: covering a hole in your wall material. Sometimes, you need to cut into your wall and keep the opening, and other times, I am just too lazy to fill the hole permanently. Either way, this snap-in panel is fantastic. It looks good and draws no attention.

Operation is simple: just press the sliding edge of the snap-in panel onto one side of an 8-inch x 8-inch hole, and compress the compliant spring far enough that you can rotate the panel and get the fixed edge of the snap-in panel into the hole. Release the spring pressure, and the panel is held into the hole by the remaining spring tension.

The compliant spring system is quite robust, but I nonetheless recommend printing the spring part with PETG. PLA worked fine in my testing,g but I do not know if it will perform as well over time.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG for the panel, PETG for the spring part.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

After printing, the parts go together as illustrated.

The post Snap-in Access Panel first appeared on logicalplanet.

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It makes a really convenient accessory for hanging a wide range of things that you might otherwise not have a home for.

Each of the “hooks” flips in for storage and out for use. The larger hooks is suitable for garments, leashes, dog collars, umbrellas, etcetera. The smaller hook is ideal for keys. There is also a slide-out loop designed for hanging sunglasses or other eyewear.

The accessory snaps onto any of the WallPlateMate mounts.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = Do not add, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

There are two pieces of support that need to be removed post-printing. Once they are removed, you can snap the parts together as illustrated.

The post Fold-out Hooks for WallMatePlate first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have for some time thought circulating air through wet gloves would be a good way to dry them and it turns out it is. My initial testing shows it is about 4 times faster to dry gloves with this dryer compared to no air circulation.

This glove dryer accelerates the glove-drying process by circulating air inside the glove.  To be clear, there is no heat so this needs to be used in doors.

The design is completely snap-together and a fairly easy print. Making this dryer for a pair of gloves requires two sets of everything except the Palm part. That should be mirrored I your slicer to make it a right Palm. But even if you do not mirror it, you can just turn it around in the base.

The glove dryer is snapped together and requires no fasteners or other hardware other than a 6015 blower-style fan.  I used a USB-powered model (linked below), but I suspect any 6015 blower fan will work since they are generally standardized in size.  If you have 6015 that does not fit, please let me know. 

I am in Canada so I used this… click here.

Some USA equivalents appear to be…. click here or here.

The glove size capacity of the dryer might also be an issue for some. If you find you have gloves that do not fit, please let me know and I will explore making other sizes of the “hand” assembly. The base should be able to stay the same and just snap in other “hand” sizes.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material = PLA or PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = No, except for Palm – add if needed. 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files.

Assembly Notes

After printing, please remove the built-in print support from the Base and Release as shown.

And, then assembly of the dryer is as shown in the following images…

The post Glove Dryer first appeared on logicalplanet.

There are at least 3 things that are critical to the durability and therefore functionality of the knife. They are blade geometry, material selection (for the blade) and speed of use of the knife.

The blade geometry is quite interesting. A sharper blade edge is obviously nicer to use but at the same time is inherently less durable. So I have included 3 versions (geometries) you can select from depending on how you want to use the knife. I have been using the double-sided 45-degree edged blade the most and very successfully. I have also included a single-sided 45-degree edge and a single-sided 33-degree edge. The 33-degree edge is so fine that it can only be used for cutting thin films when a strong filament is used. But I wonder how long it will be before we can 3d print in metal or metal-like materials. Which material you plan to use as well as how you plan to use the knife also plays into the blade selection.

Material selection is pretty straightforward… you want to use the strongest and highest temperature filament you have. In my case, I used an ABS (actually eSun ABS+) and it was quite successful so I have not tried anything stronger. I do have a few different carbon fibre-enforced materials that I have never used and thought I would try them for this but so far I have not. But that might be another way to improve the durability and strength of the blade. As I noted above, if you can print with metal then that would obviously be the best solution.

Lastly, how you plan to use the knife is more important than you might initially think. Of course, a plastic knife is not a great solution for most knife applications. But cutting relatively thin materials such as box tape to open packages received from online shopping or opening envelopes is quite suitable. In fact, cutting rolls of thin films like plastics and paper is also another good application. However, the speed at which you use the blade is also a major deciding factor in the knife’s appropriateness. Cutting through a box at full speed will melt PLA for sure and the knife will only survive a few uses regardless of the blade geometry.

The entire knife prints as 3 pieces. The blade and 2 halves make up the handle. One of the halves has an integrated compliant spring which provides the safety detent for the blade in the open and closed position.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 40%, Cubic
• Ironing = ON, Everywhere (to assist in separating the layer components)
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = All required support is designed into this product
• Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
• MATERIAL: PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION:

Assembly Notes

No post-print processing is required. To assemble it, simply align the parts as shown and press them together.

The post Folding Box Opener Knife first appeared on logicalplanet.