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The sides and ends of the CardDock assembly rotate freely and are positioned off-centre so that their own mass causes them to flop outward. Once cards are placed on them they swing back and at the same time force the cards into the centre of the base. Simple.

I also designed a lid that could be popped onto the base for card storage in a drawer or something like that. And, the lid can also be used as another card holder. Or as a stand to place the CardDock on. The stand is not a necessary function but sometimes it can be helpful.

I have also now added hard cases for the whole line of card docks. The cases come in two styles, one is a simple 1-piece sleeve and the other is a hard sleeve with bumpers and or caps so you can complete

And, I have created a bunch of variants. Please look through my collection on Thangs.com for all the existing versions. Here is a listing of the specific variants and links to their postings.

Print Settings

Assembly Notes

Assembly is quite simple but it is important to note that the Side and End parts must be installed into the base from directly above (a vertical direction). Once the parts are rotated they are designed to be self-contained in the base.

The post CardDock and Crib first appeared on logicalplanet.

This is the classic cribbage board made better.  It is a standard full-size folding Crib board with the following improvements…

• Square pegs – are stronger and less likely to snap off in the hole
• Through holes – if a peg does break off you can push it through to clear the hole (no more blocked peg holes)
• 3D printed – you can make more pegs any time
• Peg storage – that is visible and organized so you can see your pegs at all times
• More pegs – You need 3 pegs to play and count games but this board stores 4 so you always have a spare

And, for those who love Crib, I want to share with you the way we sometimes play which we call “19’s”.  Since scoring 19 in Crib is impossible, we give 19 points when a player gets zero in their hand (or Crib).  This added twist changes the game dynamics in a really fun way so that a new player or someone getting a run of bad cards can still be competitive.  Very fun!  Give it a try if you have not played like that before.

This board can also be made in a single filament/colour and colour with permanent markers if you do not have an AMS.

Printing

Your default slicer settings should be ok with the design except for the pegs and the hinge components. I recommend printing those with thicker walls and 100% infill for added strength.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

For the pegs and hinge clips:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 100%
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = NO
• Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
• MATERIAL: PLA or PETG
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated.

For the board halves:

• Wall Line Count = 2 ( 2 x 0.4mm = 0.8mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 3 ( 3 x 0.2mm = 0.6mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 15%
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = NO
• Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
• MATERIAL: PLA or PETG
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated.

Assembly Notes

After printing, flip the boards face down, and press the hinge clips into the hinges.

The post A Better Crib Board first appeared on logicalplanet.

My sister recently had shoulder surgery and was unable to use an arm for a period of time during recovery. She wanted to play cribbage to pass the time but needed to do it with one arm only. And so, here is a collapsible, adjustable, card holder for her…

There are many card holders out there but I could not find any that were collapsible and adjustable which I thought were two good enhancements for portability and convenience.

I have made two versions so far, a 6-card version and a 10-card version. It is possible to make a larger one but large would be inherently less portable so unless someone specifically wants it I will probably stop here.

One of the nice features of this design is that you can turn your hand down to the table quickly and conveniently if you need to step away from the game.

The assembly prints in 2 pieces, the main body, and a spring plate that snaps onto the main body. The spring plate gently pinches the cards so that when you slide them into the holder they stay in place.

Using the holder is as simple as sliding cards in and out. But you can adjust the viewing angle by repositioning the support arm on the back side of the device.

Four optional gripper feet (printed in TPU) can be installed to reduce sliding on a table surface.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 2 minimum, 4 recommended ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 40%, Cubic
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = none required
• Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
• MATERIAL: PLA (any material should work fine), TPU for the gripper feet
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As shown

Assembly Notes

Assembly is as simple as snapping on the spring plate to the main body. Flexing the main body slightly is necessary to get the spring plate on but once it is on it will stay in place.

Four optional gripper feet (printed in TPU) press fit into the main body as shown.

The post Card Holders first appeared on logicalplanet.