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When I designed the first crates, my skills were too limited to make these new ones. But it is very gratifying to now be able to design and print a 100% printed, snap-together, strong, modular system for organizing things, such as in a freezer, in a pantry or just on the shelf.

This crate system has multiple wall lengths so you can make crates of varying lengths. And, what’s more, I have now made 3 widths so you can file almost any width or depth of shelf.

The crate Ends are identical and allow walls to be snapped into them through a vertical channel on the back side. The walls can be removed and changed by releasing a small tab which locks the wall into place when in use.

A Connector is also available that allows walls to be joined end to end between the End components, allowing the crate to be extended.

Different wall lengths can be combined to create an almost unlimited range of total crate lengths.

Crates that are the same width and length are also stackable.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height.

It is important to note that some wall sections exceed the common 250x250mm print bed size.

Assembly Notes

The post Logical Crate System first appeared on logicalplanet.

If you know anything about me it is probably that I like lockable containers, puzzles and complex things that are interesting and fun. The BinaryBin pressed all the buttons for me as I started designing it. It is super fun.

The truth though is that I have not used binary and hex for so long I could barely get my mind going but once I did it all came back to me. And, that felt really good.

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This BinaryBin is about 1 litre in size and features a single-piece base that is secured by the lift of the top. However, the top can only be lifted off when the correct binary code is used by setting the switch values. With a 16 bit code there are 65,536 possible combinations.

I feel one of the most fun aspects of this lockable container is that the 16-bit combination can be saved as a hexadecimal number which means you need to do some conversion and exercise that skill. That adds another layer of “security” to it. So it could be a great teaching (and learning) tool also.

The design uses a planetary gear approach so that the centre gear (the sun gear) is the handle and can be turned if the correct code is selected on the switches. And, when it turns it rotates the ring gear which has the lock latches on it. Therefore, once turned, the lid of the container can be opened and when returned to its original position the lid can be locked again.

I feel the pop-up and lay flat centre hand is a good design that I will likely use again in the future. It makes for a tidy finish when not in use.

Setting the lock combination involves choosing a “0” or “1” switch when assembling the lid. Each of the switches represents one bit of the combination.

I have included TPU bumpers which are entirely optional. I feel they give the container a more rugged look and a bit more finish.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Please see the following video for assembly instructions:

There is one piece of support to be removed after printing as illustrated here.

The post BinaryBin first appeared on logicalplanet.

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GearBin is a fully 3D printable mini trash bin with a unique mechanical twist. Designed for use with biodegradable dog waste/poop bags as liners, it’s the ideal solution for food scraps, backyard clean-up, BBQ prep, or anywhere you want a tidy, compact bin that works smarter – even your desk.

I chose to use biodegradable dog waste/poop bags for this because they are a fraction of the cost of biodegradable kitchen bags and smaller so you can discard them more frequently at a lower cost.  

Our issue is we do not want to waste the more expensive biodegradable kitchen bags so we try to use them for several days. But by the end of a few days the kitchen waste can start to smell to then you throw it away without filling the bag… wasteful. So back to the small dog poop bags that are much lower cost and the right size for daily discarding.

The GearBin could be ideal for a wide range of applications including:

• Office or desk
• Kitchen countertops
• Outdoor prep areas and BBQ stations
• Composting and daily food waste
• Eco-conscious homes using dog poop bags for liners

The main features of the design are:

Gear-Driven Push Lid:
Open the lid with a simple press on the front bar—no electronics, just clean, mechanical magic.

Folding Liner Frame:
The innovative push-push mechanism folds the bag frame inwards for easy loading and unloading of liners. Holds standard dog poop bags securely.

100% Snap-Fit Assembly:
No glue, screws, or springs. Just print, snap together, and you’re ready to go.

Optional Bucket Insert:
Use with or without a removable bucket insert (included) to catch leaks and assist with liner removal.

I watched a reel promoting a small garbage bin with a folding frame to make it easier to install the liner bag. I thought that was a great idea so that is what I did too. But I made it using a push-push style so you can press it once to collapse the frame and then again to open it once the bag is installed. And, you can do the same to remove the bag.

I have also included a bucket that sits in the GearBin and essentially creates a safe space for the bag. It makes sure the bag can be pulled out from the GearBin even if it is jam-packed. And, that in the event the bag breaks or leaks you have a containment system. But the bucket also means you can use the GearBin without a bag.

I have included some exploded diagrams to help visualize what the GearBin is but to assemble it, you need to watch my instructional video linked at the bottom of this post.

Print Settings

You can print everything in PLA but you should consider printing the spring components in PETG. I have identified those in the print settings table below.

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

I have linked my assembly instructional video below, so please check that out. But also note there are a few pieces of print support to be removed after printing.

The Lid has a small strip of print support that sits under the print-in-place hinge. So look for that as you loosen the hinge after printing.

As well the Bucket has print support on each side to create the handle holes. Carefully break those free before using.

If you are building the GearBin you will definitely need to watch the following assembly instruction video…

The post GearBin™ – Mini Mechanized Trash Bin first appeared on logicalplanet.

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Now, I know not everyone likes the idea of printing guns of any kind, but some of my fondest childhood memories are of playing with toy guns with my then best friend, Simon.  We played for hours, days and in fact years and exercised our imaginations with great delight.  So, it is no wonder today that a toy gun still brings me some enjoyment.  This c9kinetic projector is something I would have loved to play with back then (and I still love it now).  

The design is simple and requires only a frame/housing to provide structure, a spring to store and release energy, a trigger to hold and release the spring and a barrel to hold and guide a projectile.  For comfort, I have added a folding grip and two other small components that hold the two sides of the frame/housing together.  

The c9kinetic Projector is a unique and compact toy that demonstrates the principles of compliant spring designs. It is capable of launching small plastic projectiles using the elastic energy stored in a specially designed compliant spring. The mechanism is powered by a 1-piece, 2-stage, 2-layer spring, which allows for a compact and less flat design inspired by the well-known BYU “One-Piece Compliant Mechanism Disk Launcher”.

This toy is entirely 3D printed and is a snap-together assembly—no hardware, fasteners, or adhesives are needed.

The spring is “charged” (compressed) by rotating the barrel 90 degrees, allowing you to load a small projectile into the back of the barrel. The barrel stays in place thanks to a compliant locking system on top of the c9kinetic, which can be released by gently pulling back on the lock with your thumb. When the barrel is rotated back down, the system automatically re-locks.

Additionally, the grip is foldable, allowing you to reduce the overall size of the c9kinetic Projector for convenient storage.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Material & Infill =
  • 301 Spring = PETG 100% infill
  • 9×20 projectiles = PLA 100% infill
  • All other components = PLA 40% (Cubic) infill
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

After printing, be sure to remove the print support, as illustrated in the following illustration.

Assembly is described in the following 2 images.

The post c9kinetic Projector first appeared on logicalplanet.

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This is a direct replacement for the commercially made ones and serves the exact same purpose: covering a hole in your wall material. Sometimes, you need to cut into your wall and keep the opening, and other times, I am just too lazy to fill the hole permanently. Either way, this snap-in panel is fantastic. It looks good and draws no attention.

Operation is simple: just press the sliding edge of the snap-in panel onto one side of an 8-inch x 8-inch hole, and compress the compliant spring far enough that you can rotate the panel and get the fixed edge of the snap-in panel into the hole. Release the spring pressure, and the panel is held into the hole by the remaining spring tension.

The compliant spring system is quite robust, but I nonetheless recommend printing the spring part with PETG. PLA worked fine in my testing,g but I do not know if it will perform as well over time.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG for the panel, PETG for the spring part.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

After printing, the parts go together as illustrated.

The post Snap-in Access Panel first appeared on logicalplanet.

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It makes a really convenient accessory for hanging a wide range of things that you might otherwise not have a home for.

Each of the “hooks” flips in for storage and out for use. The larger hooks is suitable for garments, leashes, dog collars, umbrellas, etcetera. The smaller hook is ideal for keys. There is also a slide-out loop designed for hanging sunglasses or other eyewear.

The accessory snaps onto any of the WallPlateMate mounts.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA / PETG
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = Do not add, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

There are two pieces of support that need to be removed post-printing. Once they are removed, you can snap the parts together as illustrated.

The post Fold-out Hooks for WallMatePlate first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have for some time thought circulating air through wet gloves would be a good way to dry them and it turns out it is. My initial testing shows it is about 4 times faster to dry gloves with this dryer compared to no air circulation.

This glove dryer accelerates the glove-drying process by circulating air inside the glove.  To be clear, there is no heat so this needs to be used in doors.

The design is completely snap-together and a fairly easy print. Making this dryer for a pair of gloves requires two sets of everything except the Palm part. That should be mirrored I your slicer to make it a right Palm. But even if you do not mirror it, you can just turn it around in the base.

The glove dryer is snapped together and requires no fasteners or other hardware other than a 6015 blower-style fan.  I used a USB-powered model (linked below), but I suspect any 6015 blower fan will work since they are generally standardized in size.  If you have 6015 that does not fit, please let me know. 

I am in Canada so I used this… click here.

Some USA equivalents appear to be…. click here or here.

The glove size capacity of the dryer might also be an issue for some. If you find you have gloves that do not fit, please let me know and I will explore making other sizes of the “hand” assembly. The base should be able to stay the same and just snap in other “hand” sizes.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material = PLA or PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = No, except for Palm – add if needed. 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files.

Assembly Notes

After printing, please remove the built-in print support from the Base and Release as shown.

And, then assembly of the dryer is as shown in the following images…

The post Glove Dryer first appeared on logicalplanet.

The case is very simple and relatively easy to print. The lid and main body print separately and then snap together. Once the lid is closed it snaps closed to keep your glasses inside.

With inside dimensions of 155x46x32mm the case will hold most glasses and sunglasses.

Printing

Your default slicer settings should be ok with the design as all the walls and features are thin so 2 walls should suffice.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = minimum 2 ( 2 x 0.4mm = 0.8mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = minimum 3 ( 3 x 0.2mm = 0.6mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 15%
• Ironing = OFF (not needed)
• Support = Is not required but support in the main body will give you a better inside finish
• Brim = Not required but can be beneficial when printing the main body (can use “Inside and Outside” if needed)
• MATERIAL: PLA or PETG (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As illustrated.

Assembly Notes

The lid snaps onto the main body at the hinge. The lid is designed to be snapped on at 90 degrees to the body (90 degrees from the closed position) as illustrated.

The post Eyewear Case first appeared on logicalplanet.

This is a generally straightforward product design and requires only the top Pen Holder portion to be snapped onto the Base. The Pen Holder seems to float on the Base because it is balanced on the small pointed apex of the Base. As long as the load of pens is relatively balanced the Pen Holder spins freely and quietly.

I designed a Gripper ring with a fine zig-zag’ish pattern on the bottom and it turned out to work quite well. It can be installed in the Base to help create a little bit of stickiness so that the Base is less inclined to spin on the desk surface. It works brilliantly but of course, must be printed in TPU or something similarly soft. And, if you do not have TPU handy it works quite well without it too (as long as your desk surface is not too smooth).

The Gripper ring press fits into the groove in the underside of the base and can be a bit of a tight fit. Use a small screwdriver or similar to get it installed if necessary.

I had loaded the Pen Tower up with various pens and similarly shaped objects of varying weights and they all seemed to perform well. It will even spin with just one heavy pen in it.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I don’t think it will matter what material you use for the Pen Holder and Base. I used PETG. You can opt not to use the Gripper but if you do it must be printed in TPU

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support. No support is required.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

The components should all snap and press together as per the accompanying diagram without any post-print processing.

The post Pen Tower Silent Spinning Fidget first appeared on logicalplanet.

When I created my first RagTag I was almost dead set on using hardware, bearings and fasteners almost just for the sake of it. I think I thought it would make a higher-quality consumer product. But it turns out it doesn’t and it just makes design more complex, assembly more difficult and costs higher. So after refining some of my related skills and designs I revisited the RagTag and created a new 100% printed version which is less complex, easier to assemble and lower cost to produce. I call that a successful redesign.

The Design

The key design elements in this project are the print-in-place pivot and hinge. Both needed to create freedom of movement while retaining strength. These elements (particularly the pivot) replaced hardware previously used in my original RagTag which is still selling on Amazon.

I also made the belt clip snap into the pivot core so that no fasteners were needed there either.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support. One piece of support is included in the design.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

Assembly is a two-step process. A. Remove the support which I have designed into the belt clip. And, B. Snap the two prongs on the belt clip into the core of the pivot on the main RagTag2 body. That’s it.

I have found that a drop of synthetic lubricant into the main pivot can improve its movement and reduce squeaks if they are present.

The post RagTag2 first appeared on logicalplanet.