Every growing season seems to start the same way — stacks of flimsy plastic seed trays, soil everywhere, seedlings sitting in soggy bottoms, and roots already circling before the plants are even ready to move outside.

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Most seed-starting systems are designed to be cheap and disposable, not to actually support strong early plant development.

These deep cell plug trays were designed to change that.

Instead of shallow cups and messy watering, they create a controlled, clean growing environment that promotes healthy root growth, proper drainage, and easy transplanting — all in reusable modular sizes that scale from small test batches to larger planting runs.

Whether you’re starting a few peppers or filling a full shelf with seedlings, the 2×3, 2×5, and 3×5 trays provide the same optimized growing conditions in flexible footprints.

What It Is & How It Works

Each plug tray is built as a complete propagation system focused on moisture control, airflow, and root health.

Deep growing cells give seedlings room to develop strong early root systems while maintaining excellent drainage. A translucent humidity dome traps warmth and moisture during germination, while built-in micro-vent spaces allow controlled airflow to prevent stagnant conditions.

The cells sit in a raised propagation tray that creates an airflow and drainage gap underneath. This enables clean bottom watering, prevents water buildup, and works perfectly with seed heat mats for faster germination.

Together, these elements form a compact micro-environment that encourages quicker sprouting, healthier growth, and far less mess.

Key Parts & Mechanisms

Each tray size uses the same thoughtfully engineered components:

Deep Plug Cells
Tall growing chambers with internal root-guiding ribs that direct roots downward rather than spiraling, creating dense, compact root plugs that transplant cleanly.

Push-Up Ejectors
Removable bases inside each cell allow the entire soil plug and plant to be lifted out gently — no pulling or root damage. Drainage holes in the ejectors prevent oversaturation and support bottom watering.

Raised Propagation Tray
A rigid support tray that holds the cells aligned while creating airflow and drainage underneath to keep roots healthy and soil properly aerated.

Humidity Dome
A translucent cover that maintains high humidity for germination while passive vent spaces provide controlled airflow for healthier early growth.

Size & Dimensions

The deep cell plug trays are available in three modular formats:

2×3 Tray — 6 cells
Great for small batches, specialty seeds, or limited space.

2×5 Tray — 10 cells
A balanced size for moderate planting runs.

3×5 Tray — 15 cells
Ideal for larger starts when prepping full gardens.

Each cell features approximately 60mm of growing depth, making them especially well suited for:

• peppers and tomatoes
• herbs and flowers
• seedlings that benefit from strong root systems

The deeper design allows plants to remain in the trays longer before transplanting while building healthier roots than shallow starter trays.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

All components are designed to print easily using common filaments and standard slicer settings.

PLA works perfectly for indoor growing. For longer-term durability or higher humidity environments, PETG or ASA are excellent options.

Recommended baseline settings:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• 4 walls
• 5 top/bottom layers
• 30–40% infill
• No supports required

The geometry is forgiving and optimized for strong, clean prints.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Very little post-processing is required.

After printing:

• Gently flex each ejector base to ensure smooth movement
• Clear any minor stringing around drainage holes
• Test the push-up action once or twice

Once done, the trays are ready to fill and plant.

Assembly (If Required)

No assembly is required.

The plug cells drop directly into the propagation tray, ejectors slide into place, and the humidity dome rests on top.

Everything is designed as a simple modular drop-in system for easy cleaning and long-term reuse.

Everyday Use & Operation

The workflow is clean and straightforward:

• Pre-moisten potting mix
• Fill each cell (a single-cell soil funnel is included for mess-free filling)
• Sow seeds and lightly cover
• Place the humidity dome on top for germination
• Bottom water as needed
• Remove dome once seedlings emerge
• Push up ejectors to transplant cleanly when ready

Reusable plant markers designed for standard 12mm × 40mm labels (such as Nimbot-style labels) — or simple handwritten notes — make tracking varieties easy throughout the growing process.

Everything stays organized, clean, and frustration-free.

Why This Design Exists

These plug trays were created to replace disposable seed starters with a reusable, well-engineered system that actually supports plant health.

Instead of dealing with warped plastic, soggy soil, and weak roots, the focus is on:

• controlled moisture
• healthy airflow
• strong root structure
• clean transplanting
• modular scalability

They also form the foundation of a larger modular growing ecosystem that will continue to expand over time — allowing seed starting to integrate seamlessly into larger indoor growing setups.

For now, these trays offer a simple, professional-grade way to start stronger plants at home.

The post Deep Cell Plug Trays – Seed Starters first appeared on logicalplanet.

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My design uses the classic funnel leading to bait strategy. And, I feel it has the potential to be “better” for a couple of reasons as follows:

1. I have made the funnel top quite large. Wasps are visually oriented and so making the top of the funnel large and yellow should increase the chances of a wasp finding the trap.
2. I have added a twist-to-open iris-style closure mechanism that a) provides a convenient closure when you want to close the trap to move it, and b) when the iris is open, the blades of the iris act as leaves to further enhance the visual appeal of the trap.
3. Lastly, I have made a PET bottle and a mason jar version of the traps so it can be attached conveniently to either of those types of containers.

I have included designs for both standard and wide-mouth mason jars.

The only issue I have seen so far is that the hot sun can affect the 3d printed parts quite easily if it is left to bake in the heat. So keep it out of the direct sunlight.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Assembly is very straightforward, and all the pieces of the trap snap or fit together easily without any added hardware, fasteners or adhesives.

The post A Better Wasp Trap first appeared on logicalplanet.

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IceCozy is a homemade ice “gel” pack (or freezer pack) that you 3D print and fill with a sugar (or salt) water solution. Once frozen, it will help to keep your drink significantly more chilled when compared to not using it (See my bench test results below). I developed this for the DrinkColder, but it can be used independently in any other application.

My original attempt to make an ice mould failed for a variety of reasons, and in the end, I decided no one really wants their drink sitting in a pool of water (from the melted ice) because that means it will drip on you every time you take a sip. But more importantly, water expands (about 9%) when frozen, making it very challenging to have a precise mould and fit into the DrinkColder. On the other hand, water saturated with sugar or anything similar does not expand. So the freezer “gel” solution I am using here allows a very accurately sized case to fit snug against your beverage.

Its slim and compact size limits its cooling power, so I think I will eventually work on some larger ones that might be standalone or some other style of fun drink holder. And, they can all use this same formulation.

It is critical that you print with modified printer settings to ensure the printed part is as leak-proof as possible. If you do not know, if you simply 3d print a container, it will most certainly leak when you put water in it. There are lots of strategies for making it leak-proof, but many require you to line it with epoxy or silicone, or something similar. My goal is to use a printed part without modification. We can do that by a) increasing the flow ratio to force a tighter print, and of course, you must print with more walls, more top and bottom layers, and 100% infill. And, b) increasing the viscosity of the water solution you put inside. Since water has a very low viscosity, it leaks easily through the microscopic pores in the printed container. But converting the water solution into a gel changes its ability to flow.

So first, please review my recommended print settings carefully. Then you should have a much more leak-resistant container. And that will be good enough because we are going to fill it with a homemade high-viscosity gel that will have a difficult time flowing through any remaining microscopic holes in the printed container. Once you fill the printed container with the gel, you close it by screwing on the lid. I have made that threaded connection quite tight to improve leak resistance, so you need to apply a small amount of lubricant or cooking oil to the threads as well as the top inside wall where the lid fits.

The gel inside commercial gel packs has always kind of scared me because it looks like something you do not want to consume, yet we often place it near consumables to keep them cold. But it turns out that whether the commercial ones are toxic or not, it does not need to be. Saturating water with sugar (and/or salt) can give you a high-density solution that functions as an excellent freezer pack. And, by using a thickening agent (xanthan gum), even when it comes to room temperature (or warmer), it will have a very difficult time leaking through your printed container.

Now, with all that said, I did test putting the thickened solution into a 3d printed vessel with default print settings, and it worked. The gel solution was too thick to flow through the walls. But I do not recommend relying on that. I also tested putting the sugar water solution without the thickening agent into a container printed using my modified settings (103% flow ratio). And, it also held. This might be acceptable. But leaking a sugar solution in the hot summer sun would be bad news, so I strongly recommend doing both, using the thickening agent and printing with modified settings.

I recommend printing and making multiple IceCozies so you can always have a few frozen ones standing by. I have also included a special funnel to make filling the container easier.

Bench Testing: Performance You Can Feel – Even After an Hour

I ran a bench test using water-filled aluminum cans that I refrigerated to 3c and wireless temperature probes, comparing four different setups at room temperature (~22c):

• Can 1: On the counter – open air
• Can 2: In DrinkColder
• Can 3: In DrinkColder + our IceCozy insert
• An ambient air probe (for reference)

Temperature after 30 minutes:

• Open air: 9c (Cool to cold)
• DrinkColder only: 8c (Chilled, refreshing)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 4c (Ice Cold)

Temperature after 60 minutes:

• Open air: 13c (Cool-ish)
• DrinkColder only: 10c (Cool to cold)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 6c (Chilled, refreshing)

What Counts as “Cold”?

For reference, these are the temperature ranges of the coldness categories I used:

• Ice Cold = 0–4 c – “Just out of the fridge”
• Chilled, refreshing = 5–8 c – “Still cold, perfect”
• Cool to cold = 9–12 c – “Still fine” for most people
• Cool-ish = 13–15 c – “Not cold, but OK”
• Mild or warm = 16 c+ – “This is getting too warm”

So after a full hour sitting out, the IceCozy system kept the drink in the “Chilled, refreshing” zone, while the unprotected can was already well into warm territory.
And the best part? – Even at the 90-minute mark, the IceCozy setup was still holding at just 8c — still within the refreshing zone — while the open can had climbed to nearly 14c.

Here is the formulation I have arrived at, and it works really well. This recipe will create 400g of gel, which is enough for filling 4 IceCozies (100g in each).

Xanthan Gum Syrup Gel Recipe for Freezer Pack

Ingredients:

• 200 ml or 200 g (~¾ cup) hot water (just under boiling is best for dissolving sugar)
• 200 g (~1 cup) white sugar (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio)
• 0.6 g xanthan gum (≈¼ teaspoon)
• 3–5 g salt (½ to 1 tsp)

Steps:

1. Mix dry ingredients: Combine sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large bowl. Stir/mix well.
2. Add hot water: Pour the hot water onto the dry mix and whisk for 30–60 seconds until smooth.
3. Let rest 5–10 min: It will thicken as it cools.
4. Pour into IceCozy cup up to the threads while warm. Exactly 100g (3.5 oz) of solution is perfect in one IceCozy.

How to Get the Best Cooling Performance

• Pre-chill your drink – Start with a can that’s been refrigerated for several hours — the IceCozy is designed to maintain cold, not create it.
• Freeze your IceCozy solid – Let it freeze overnight for best results. The syrup-based gel stays colder longer than regular ice. Freeze several so you have more standing by when needed.
• Assemble just before use – Place the frozen IceCozy inside the DrinkColder and drop your can in.
• Keep it out of the sun – Use the DrinkColder to create additional insulation and shade your beverage from the sun. For even greater effect, keep the DrinkColder out of the direct sun.
• Don’t open it often – Every time you lift the can, you let warmth in — keep it sealed when not sipping.

IMPORTANT:

This method of keeping your beverage cool depends entirely on starting with a refrigerated drink. The IceCozy contains about 100 ml of syrup, while a 12 fl oz beverage holds approximately 355 ml of liquid. That gives the IceCozy about 8,000 J of thermal capacity compared to the drink’s 20,800 J. In other words, it’s not designed to chill a warm beverage — only to help keep a cold one cold for longer.

Freezing the IceCozy means -18c (freezer temperature).

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

In order to make these parts more likely to retain water, please set the Flow Rate to 103% in your slicer. If needed, you can go higher up to 105%.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is not too much to say about assembly. Make your solution, and while it is still warm, pour it into the IceCozy cup. I have included a design for a funnel to help with this process but you could also use a squeeze bottle.

Fill the solution up to the threads. You do not need to leave headspace beyond that as there is a gap in the lid.

It can be very beneficial to apply some lubricant or cooking oil on the threads of the lid before screwing it into place.

The post IceCozy first appeared on logicalplanet.

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GearBin is a fully 3D printable mini trash bin with a unique mechanical twist. Designed for use with biodegradable dog waste/poop bags as liners, it’s the ideal solution for food scraps, backyard clean-up, BBQ prep, or anywhere you want a tidy, compact bin that works smarter – even your desk.

I chose to use biodegradable dog waste/poop bags for this because they are a fraction of the cost of biodegradable kitchen bags and smaller so you can discard them more frequently at a lower cost.  

Our issue is we do not want to waste the more expensive biodegradable kitchen bags so we try to use them for several days. But by the end of a few days the kitchen waste can start to smell to then you throw it away without filling the bag… wasteful. So back to the small dog poop bags that are much lower cost and the right size for daily discarding.

The GearBin could be ideal for a wide range of applications including:

• Office or desk
• Kitchen countertops
• Outdoor prep areas and BBQ stations
• Composting and daily food waste
• Eco-conscious homes using dog poop bags for liners

The main features of the design are:

Gear-Driven Push Lid:
Open the lid with a simple press on the front bar—no electronics, just clean, mechanical magic.

Folding Liner Frame:
The innovative push-push mechanism folds the bag frame inwards for easy loading and unloading of liners. Holds standard dog poop bags securely.

100% Snap-Fit Assembly:
No glue, screws, or springs. Just print, snap together, and you’re ready to go.

Optional Bucket Insert:
Use with or without a removable bucket insert (included) to catch leaks and assist with liner removal.

I watched a reel promoting a small garbage bin with a folding frame to make it easier to install the liner bag. I thought that was a great idea so that is what I did too. But I made it using a push-push style so you can press it once to collapse the frame and then again to open it once the bag is installed. And, you can do the same to remove the bag.

I have also included a bucket that sits in the GearBin and essentially creates a safe space for the bag. It makes sure the bag can be pulled out from the GearBin even if it is jam-packed. And, that in the event the bag breaks or leaks you have a containment system. But the bucket also means you can use the GearBin without a bag.

I have included some exploded diagrams to help visualize what the GearBin is but to assemble it, you need to watch my instructional video linked at the bottom of this post.

Print Settings

You can print everything in PLA but you should consider printing the spring components in PETG. I have identified those in the print settings table below.

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

I have linked my assembly instructional video below, so please check that out. But also note there are a few pieces of print support to be removed after printing.

The Lid has a small strip of print support that sits under the print-in-place hinge. So look for that as you loosen the hinge after printing.

As well the Bucket has print support on each side to create the handle holes. Carefully break those free before using.

If you are building the GearBin you will definitely need to watch the following assembly instruction video…

The post GearBin™ – Mini Mechanized Trash Bin first appeared on logicalplanet.

I reviewed a bunch of them out there in the market and tried to improve upon them. That may be subjective but I find this one to work extremely well. Simply lay a stem into the stripper using the slot closest to the size of the stem, squeeze closed the stripper, and pull the stem. So much better than using your finger when doing a large volume of plants.

Printing

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
Infill = 40%, Cubic
Ironing = OFF (not needed)
Support = All required support is designed into this product
Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
Material = Food grade PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
Print Orientation: As shown below.

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Herb Stripper first appeared on logicalplanet.

Simply screw it to your wall or cabinet and hang pot lids in it. The lids must have an inside edge like glass lids typically do. Some metal lids do and some don’t – so be sure to check out your lids before printing this.

The Lid Hanger is very strong and will easily handle the weight of 4 lids. I would be happy to make it in other sizes if anyone wants it bigger or smaller.

Hanging and removing lids in the hanger is very easy but does require you to slow down a little so that you do not knock off other lids as you insert or remove a lid.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I chose to use PETG.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required. Just screw it to a wall or cabinet.

The post Lid Stack Hanger first appeared on logicalplanet.

The BevvyShade is essentially a drink coaster with a sunshade attached to it. Just drop your drink onto the coaster and rotate it for optimal shade. The lack of sun on your drink slows the inevitable cooling – keeping your drink colder longer.

It is quite a simple design but with this 3rd generation, I now have built-in flip-out legs to stabilize the BevvyShade in the event of wind. These legs are print-in-place and no hardware, fasteners or adhesives are needed.

With this generation, I have also made it slightly shorter. It is now 242mm tall so it can be printed on many common-size printers.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without additional print support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required other than removing the 4 pieces of built-in print support as shown in the accompanying illustration.

The post BevvyShade3 first appeared on logicalplanet.

Recently we had a gathering and I noticed that even on our crowded dinner table, water glasses get mixed up. This was the inspiration for the hook that goes onto the glass rim. It is in theory all you really need. But then drinking beers with a bunch of friends; my buddy kept stealing my beer under the guise of claiming to not know which one was his. Thus the bottleneck hook.

So far, I have made 3 mounting parts “hooks” as follows:

• one for glass rims,
• one for beer bottlenecks, and
• one for wine glass stems.

I have created a bunch of icon-style charms and all the charms can be attached to any of the hooks.

The first hook for glasses will hook onto almost any glass rim (including wine glasses) but for those who do not want a charm on their wine glass rim there is also a hook for the stem.

The idea is that you can snap on and off any of the pendants onto any of the mounting hooks. So you can find a charm for everyone regardless of what they are drinking.

Printing

Obviously, you can print these in any colour and mix and match colours as well as charms and hooks.

I have oriented the STLs so that the charms are facing down so that the print surface becomes the visible side of the charm. But if you prefer you can flip them over.

Material: I used PETG but I am sure you can print these in any material.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No instructions are needed, you just print them, snap them together and then attach them to drinks. But I should note that the charm will attach to the hook more readily if the charm is inserted into the hook at an angle as shown in the instructional image.

The post Drink Charms first appeared on logicalplanet.

To really appreciate why I am so pleased with this design you have to reflect on my original beer holder which had no hinges or pivots. So it was stiff and did not stabilize the beverage. I created a second design the BevvySteady (#2) which is truly gimballed but requires steel bearings, screws and ultimately is more expensive to produce. This new version gives almost the same drink stability at a lower cost and is 100% printed and adjustable.

Of course, you can use this for pretty much any kind of beverage. It does not need to be beer. I have created (so far) 3 different ring sizes for varying beverage containers. The largest is designed for large format beers (stadium beers), the middle one is for standard beers tall and short, and the smallest one is for the newer skinny can drinks. The adjustable leg allows you to adjust the height of the beverage can so that it sits as low as possible but still can be held well by the gripper.

The centre of the design is the “spine” to which all the main components attach to. The spine has built-in spring mechanisms to retain the beverage holder and allow them to be swapped out. As well the spine retains the leg (base) and allows it to be adjusted in height.

The off-axis gimbal does not truly stabilize the beverage but I found even with a true gimbal, because it is against your body, the gimbal is not perfectly effective. But by adding two bearings on the axis parallel to your body a substantial amount of movement is permitted. The 3rd axis allows the beverage to swing away from your body and makes the entire assembly more comfortable.

The two main plain bearings are embedded in bodies that snap together as shown in the illustration. Two pairs of hooks flex and then restore their position inside the inner bearing bodies. This can not be disassembled once they are snapped together.

The connector plate connects the gimbal side (and belt hook) to the spine (the beverage side). It clicks into the back side of the spine by aligning it flush with the top back area of the spine. And, then sliding it up. There is a locking tab in the spine that needs to be flexed out when the connector plate is inserted. After the connector is fully seated the locking tab will restore to its original position and lock the connector plate in place.

The beverage holder rings slide onto the top of the spine. Once fully seated the sprung tabs on the spine will snap into place and lock the beverage holder into place. To remove the beverage holder you must press in on the tabs while pully up on the beverage holder.

The leg (or base) of the assembly slides up onto the spine and can be adjusted in position by squeezing the two tabs on the lower back side of the spine.

Super important to note that I have built in some support where it is needed. So do not add support when printing. Here are some images of the support I added. The red part needs to be snapped off after printing.

Where is all this going… my final goal is to make a version of this that can hold a wine glass (successfully).

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility. I am not sure how well this will work in PLA and would love to get some feedback from anyone who tries it.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.45mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Does not require support. Two components have breakaway support designed in. After printing, simply snap off the support material.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

The post BevvySteady3 Drink Holster first appeared on logicalplanet.

My goal was a small structure that I could deploy in the fall and put in storage in the spring. I also wanted to use as many low-cost off-the-shelf materials as I could to make it affordable and convenient to build.

The resulting design requires only two printed parts (shown in the images as green (Figure 1) and red (Figure 2) parts). The green part is a PVC pipe to roof closure connector (6 required). And, the red part is PVC tube end to PVC tube connector (4 required).

The standard 1/2″ PVC tubing and its standard fittings provide most of the structure. However, I needed the two parts I designed so that I could attach the roof and also so that the entire structure could be easily assembled and folded for storage.

To make one of these structures requires 1/3 of an 8-foot roof panel and two 10-foot lengths of 1/2″ PVC. Also, the roof panel closures came in a set of 6. So I used one roof panel and one set of closures to make 3 structures.

Bill of Materials (Part labels referenced in figures 5 and 6):

Printed Parts
[A] 3D printed 1/2″ pipe-to-roof snap-on connector, 6 required.
[B] 3D printed pipe-to-pipe end snap-on connector, 4 required.

Building Supply Sourced Parts
[C] 1/2″ PVC corners, 8 required (you can use T connectors also for the back frame if you have them).
[D] 2 PVC Closures for roof panel [E], sold as a 6-piece set.
[E] 1/3 of an 8-foot Polycarbonate roof panel, 1 required

Two 10-foot lengths of 1/2 PVC Pipe Cut as follows:
[F] 6 pieces, 52cm (20.5″) for entire front frame and front-to-back connectors.
[G] 2 pieces, 72cm (29.5″) for back frame uprights.
[H] 2 pieces, 59cm (23.25″) for back frame cross members.

Fasteners
[I] 6 stainless steel screws, I used #6 5/8″ because that was what I had laying around. Pretty much anything close to that will do.

Because the front frame is slightly narrower than the back frame, the front frame can nest inside the back frame allowing the structure to fold down quite compactly.

The only fasteners I used are the 6 screws (part [I]) to connect the roof panel and closures to the pipe-to-roof connector (part [A]). I did not need to use any solvents (adhesives) on any of the PVC connectors. They seem to have a pretty good friction fit.

The pipe-to-roof connector (part [A]) snaps onto the PVC pipe so it can be removed as needed. The pipe-to-pipe end connector (part [B]) snaps onto both pipes and can be readily removed as needed also.

Printing

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility. I suspect you could make these parts with PLA as well but they may not last too many winters.

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width – 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%, but it is irrelevant as max wall thickness is 2mm.
Support = Designed to print without supports.

Orientation: As shown in the screenshots.

The post Folding Garden Canopy first appeared on logicalplanet.