Download the Logical Scissor Gate on Thangs:
https://than.gs/m/1604570?affiliateCode=logicalplanet

I made the Logical Scissor Gate mostly because I thought it would be awesome—and it is.

A large, functional structure built almost entirely with 3D-printed parts feels like an incredible leap forward from where I began with 3D printing not that many years ago. This is not a small gadget or a decorative model. It is a working expandable barrier that can cross a substantial opening, collapse into a compact package and even be stacked to create additional height.

Inspired by the gates I saw in China

I have always liked this particular style of scissor gate. I saw them used extensively in China and was immediately struck by their usefulness.

The scissor gates I grew up seeing were usually thin, flat barriers that depended heavily on being attached to a wall. The Chinese gates that caught my attention were very different. They used thick, repeating frames that allowed the structure to support and stabilize itself. Some were large enough to cordon off an entire parking lot, yet they could still collapse into a relatively compact space when not needed.

That combination of scale, movement and compact storage stayed with me. It also made the design a particularly interesting challenge for 3D printing: could I reproduce the same basic structural idea as a modular system made from printable components?

A gate built one bay at a time

The Logical Scissor Gate is not designed around one fixed opening. Its width is created by adding or removing repeating bays, so the same basic components can be used to build gates of different lengths.

Each bay provides 100 mm of nominal width and can extend to approximately 120 mm. When collapsed, each bay compresses to approximately 15 mm. That gives the finished gate a useful range of movement while keeping it surprisingly compact when folded.

A nominal 1 metre gate contains ten 100 mm bays and can extend to approximately 1.2 metres.

Stackable as well as expandable

Width was only part of the idea. Complete gate modules can also be connected vertically, allowing the finished barrier to be built in 320 mm height increments.

Printed Stackers join the Frames of one module to the Frames of the module above it. This makes the system adaptable in two directions: repeat the bay pattern to change the width, and stack complete modules to change the height.

Although a single module can stand independently for light-duty barrier use, wall mounting is strongly recommended for stacked gates. Increasing the height also increases the load on the Frames, Stackers and mounts.

A fully printed mechanical system

One of my favourite things about the project is that the gate itself does not require conventional non-printed hardware. The moving structure is assembled from printed Arms, Connector Axles, Connector Plugs and Frames. Stackers and optional wall-mounting parts extend the system further.

The core parts are:

• A1 Arms
• A3 Arms
• A4 Arms
• Frames
• Connector Axles
• Connector Plugs
• Stackers for connecting modules vertically
• Top and Bottom Mounts for securing the gate to a suitable surface

The crossed arm layers pivot on the printed axles, while the repeating Frames give the structure its depth and help it remain upright. That three-dimensional frame arrangement is what makes this design feel so different from a thin, wall-mounted scissor gate.

Planning the size of a gate

Because the design is modular, the number of parts depends on the finished width and the number of vertically stacked modules. I created a parts calculator to make that planning easier.

For a basic gate, quantities are calculated in 100 mm nominal-width increments. A taller gate multiplies the core component quantities by the number of modules, with one Stacker required at each Frame connection between modules.

The calculator link is included with the model documentation on Thangs.

How the gate goes together

Assembly begins by laying out the first arm layer. An A1 Arm and A3 Arm form the ends, while the A4 pattern repeats between them until the required width is reached.

A second arm layer is placed perpendicular to the first, and Connector Axles are inserted through the centre joints.

Connector Plugs secure the exposed outside joints. The final arm layer is then aligned over the Connector Axles, and the remaining outside joints are completed with additional Plugs.

The Frames are installed one axle column at a time. Each Frame flexes slightly into position, then locks onto the flat-sided Connector Axles. Once all the Frames are installed, the gate can be opened and collapsed slowly to confirm that every joint moves freely and all Axles, Plugs and Frames remain fully seated.

Connecting modules vertically

To build a taller gate, a Stacker is pressed onto the top of every Frame in the lower module. The Frames of the next module align with those Stackers and press fully into place.

Every connection should be checked carefully. There should be no gap between a Frame and its Stacker, and a stacked gate should be mounted securely.

Optional wall mounting

For a frequently used or taller gate, I strongly recommend using the Top and Bottom Mounts. They attach to a secure surface using fasteners appropriate for that wall material. The end Frame then lifts onto the two mounts and lowers into its seated position.

The correct screws and anchors will depend on the mounting surface, so those fasteners are not specified as part of the printed system.

Printing recommendations

This version of the gate requires a 320 × 320 mm print bed. I also made a separate version for 250 × 250 mm print beds.

The parts are designed to print without supports when the supplied STL or 3MF orientation is used. These are functional components, so they should be printed more substantially than a typical decorative model.

My recommended starting settings are:

• Material: PLA or PETG for indoor use; ASA for outdoor use
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm
• Layer height: 0.2 mm
• Line width: 0.4 mm
• Walls: 4, providing 1.6 mm total wall thickness
• Top and bottom layers: 5, providing 1.0 mm total thickness
• Detect thin walls: On
• Wall generator: Arachne
• Infill: 70% cubic
• Brim or raft: Not normally required
• Supports: None required
• Orientation: Use the supplied STL/3MF orientation

Material choice and print settings are ultimately up to the person making the gate and the intended use. For something expected to remain in service for years, I recommend the higher infill and a more durable, weather-resistant material such as ASA for outdoor use.

An important safety note

The Logical Scissor Gate contains moving scissor joints that can pinch fingers. It is not a certified child-safety gate and must not be used at the top of stairs or anywhere a failure could cause injury.

It is best treated as a configurable general-purpose barrier. The appropriate size, material, mounting method and level of supervision depend on where and how it will be used.

Why this project matters to me

This is one of those designs that reminds me why I became so interested in 3D printing in the first place.

Not that long ago, I was amazed simply to watch a printer produce a small usable object. Now I can design a large mechanical structure made from many repeatable printed components—a structure that expands, collapses, stacks and can be adapted to the space where it is needed.

There is something deeply satisfying about watching all those individual printed parts become one coordinated mechanism. The fact that it looks and moves like the substantial scissor gates that originally inspired me makes it even better.

And yes, I still think it is awesome.

Download the Logical Scissor Gate on Thangs:
https://than.gs/m/1604570?affiliateCode=logicalplanet

If you build one, I would love to see how you configure it and what you use it for. You can also find more of my designs at logicalplanet.com or contact me at logicalplanet3d@gmail.com.

The post Logical Scissor Gate first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Download the Blue Bin Hanger on Thangs

This is one of those “Why buy it when I can print it?” projects.

I wanted to get my blue recycling bins off the ground and organized. I did not need a complicated storage system—just a small, strong wall-mounted hanger that would hold the rim of each bin securely while keeping the bins easy to lift off when I needed them.

The result is the Blue Bin Hanger: a simple and very useful print that turns an unused section of wall into practical recycling-bin storage.

Getting the Bins Up and Out of the Way

Blue bins are useful, but they tend to occupy a surprising amount of floor space. Mine were sitting on the ground, where they looked untidy and made the area harder to keep organized.

The obvious answer was to hang them on the wall. The top rim of the bin already provides a strong, convenient place to support it, so the design only needed to capture that rim securely and let the bin lift on and off without fuss.

That is really the whole idea behind this project. It is not intended to be mechanically elaborate. It is a purpose-built part that solves a small, everyday problem—and it is exactly the kind of job for which having a 3D printer is so useful.

A Small Hanger with Some Useful Flexibility

The hanger is split into two receiving sections. This lets it accommodate smaller bins whose upper rims contain more ribs, rather than requiring one wide uninterrupted section of rim.

Each hanger requires only one screw, although it includes mounting holes for as many as six. I recommend using three screws for a secure installation. The spacing between the left and right hangers can be adjusted to suit the particular bin; mine are installed approximately 290 mm (11.5 inches) apart.

I also included an optional wedge for installation on sloped siding. The wedge compensates for the angle so the hanger itself can sit in the correct orientation. On a flat wall, the hangers can be installed without it.

Because the two hangers are positioned independently, there is no fixed rail or frame dictating their spacing. Set them to match your bin, fasten them to the wall, and the rim of the bin drops into place. The bin stays off the ground but remains easy to remove whenever it is time to use or empty it.

Dimensions

Each Blue Bin Hanger measures:

• 80 mm wide
• 80 mm high
• 18 mm deep
• 6 mm mounting-plate thickness
• 48 mm overall height at the front hook
• 28 mm hook height

The detailed drawing below includes the mounting-hole spacing and the dimensions of the two receiving sections.

Before mounting the hangers, check the shape and rib spacing of your own bin rim and determine the best distance between the two hangers. The approximately 290 mm spacing shown in my installation is a reference, not a required fixed dimension.

Printing the Hangers

This is a functional, load-bearing print, so strength matters more than it would for a decorative model. I recommend reviewing the slicer settings carefully rather than relying on a typical default profile.

The files are supplied in the intended print orientation. No slicer-generated supports are required. A small removable support is built into the model where needed; remove it after printing.

My recommended settings are:

I use ASA for an outdoor installation because it is better suited to weather and UV exposure. PETG is suitable for indoor or sheltered locations. As with any wall-mounted functional print, the strength of the installation also depends on using appropriate fasteners and attaching the hangers to a suitable supporting surface.

Installation

Installation is straightforward:

1. Hold the bin against the wall at the height where you want it stored.
2. Identify sections of the upper rim that fit securely into the split hanger profile.
3. Mark the position of both hangers. My hangers are approximately 290 mm apart, but yours can be spaced to suit your bin.
4. If mounting on sloped siding, place the optional compensation wedge behind each hanger.
5. Fasten each hanger to a suitable supporting surface. One screw is the minimum the design accommodates; up to six can be used, and I recommend three.
6. Lower the rim of the bin into the two hangers and confirm that it is properly seated before loading the bin.

Fastener selection will depend on the wall material and what is behind it, so use screws and anchors appropriate to your installation.

One of Those Satisfying Little Prints

Not every useful 3D-printing project has to be a complicated mechanism or a large assembly. Sometimes the best designs are the small ones that solve an annoyance and then quietly keep doing their job.

For me, this was simply a matter of getting the blue bins off the ground and giving them a proper place. A couple of compact printed parts did exactly that. The area is tidier, the floor is easier to keep clear, and the bins are still immediately accessible.

If you have similar recycling bins taking up floor space, you can download the Blue Bin Hanger from Thangs and adjust the mounting spacing to suit your own setup.

Download the Blue Bin Hanger on Thangs

If you print it, I would be interested to see how you use it—and whether your local blue bins have the same rim style as mine.

The post Blue Bin Hangers first appeared on logicalplanet.

I needed a small garbage bin that I could mount exactly where I wanted it, without taking up floor or counter space. I also wanted it to be genuinely convenient: easy to use, quick to remove for emptying, and just as quick to put back.

The lid—or more accurately, the flap—was the part that needed the most thought. It had to stay properly closed when the bin was sitting idle, but it could not take so much force to open that it got in the way of simply dropping something into the bin. The Logical Wall Bin is what I came up with.

A Small Bin for the Places That Need One

This is not intended to replace a full-size kitchen garbage can. It is a compact 4.5 L (1.2 gal) bin for the places where a small, conveniently positioned waste container is more useful: beside a barbecue, on a patio, in a workshop or garage, or on a kitchen cabinet door.

At 248 × 130 × 230 mm (9.8 × 5.1 × 9.1 in), it has a fairly low profile against the mounting surface. It can be permanently mounted to a wall or cabinet, or hung over a cabinet door without drilling into it.

The bin itself lifts in and out of the upper frame, so taking it away for emptying or cleaning does not involve removing screws or disturbing the mounting hardware. A large snap-on handle makes it easy to carry once it is out of the frame.

That quick on-and-off action was one of my main objectives for the design. A wall-mounted bin is only convenient if emptying it is convenient too.

Drop Something In and the Flap Does the Rest

The top flap rests horizontally across the opening. Drop waste onto it and the weight rotates the flap open, allowing the waste to fall into the bin. Once the item has passed through, the flap returns to its closed position automatically.

There is no lid to lift by hand and nothing needs to be left standing open while you work.

Four 6 × 3 mm magnets—two in the flap and two in the frame—hold the flap in a stable horizontal position. They also help prevent wind, birds and larger insects from pushing or pulling it open, which is useful when the bin is installed outdoors.

The goal was not simply to make the magnetic hold as strong as possible. Too much force would defeat the easy-opening action. I wanted enough holding strength to keep the flap properly closed, without making it an obstacle during normal use.

The magnet positions are offset from front to back, which gives you some control over the flap action. Install the flap in the direction that produces the opening force you prefer. You can also rotate it 180 degrees to disable the magnetic hold entirely.

Two Ways to Mount It

I designed the same bin frame to work with either a fixed wall mount or removable cabinet-door hangers.

Wall mounting

The supplied wall fixture is attached with fasteners appropriate for the mounting surface. The upper frame then lowers onto the fixture’s hooks. This keeps the installation straightforward and allows the frame to be removed without taking the fixture off the wall.

Cabinet-door mounting

For installations where holes are not desirable, the files include hangers for three common door thicknesses:

• 19.1 mm (0.75 in)
• 25.4 mm (1.00 in)
• 31.8 mm (1.25 in)

Choose the hanger that matches your door, place a pair over the top edge, and lower the bin frame onto them.

The mounting choices make it easy to try the bin in a kitchen and later move it to a workshop, barbecue area or another location without needing a different bin.

Simple, Modular Assembly

The design is divided into practical parts: the bin, upper frame, flap, handle, wall mount, and cabinet-door hangers. The exploded view below shows how the pieces relate to one another.

The handle slides upward into guides formed into the side of the bin. Once fully seated, its lower tab snaps into place. To remove it, pull the lower locking tab forward and slide the handle downward.

The four magnets are designed to press into their holes. Check the polarity before inserting them fully: each magnet in the flap needs to attract the corresponding magnet in the frame. If your printer’s tolerances leave them a little loose, a small amount of adhesive can be used to secure them.

The flap then lowers into the frame, with its pivot points aligned to the matching recesses. Once installed, it should rotate freely and return quickly to a stable horizontal position when released.

Size and Capacity

The assembled Logical Wall Bin measures:

• Width: 248 mm (9.8 in)
• Depth: 130 mm (5.1 in)
• Height: 230 mm (9.1 in)
• Capacity: approximately 4.5 L (1.2 gal)

Its narrow depth keeps it from projecting too far into the room, while the height and width provide useful capacity for a small utility bin.

Printing the Logical Wall Bin

For indoor use, I recommend PLA or PETG. For outdoor installations, use ASA or another material suitable for prolonged heat, weather and UV exposure.

The parts are supplied in their intended print orientations. No slicer-generated supports are required; small built-in supports are already incorporated where needed. The orange areas shown below should be removed before installing the cabinet-door hangers.

These are the recommended starting settings for the functional parts:

Functional prints often need more strength than ordinary decorative models, so it is worth checking these settings rather than relying automatically on a slicer’s default profile.

The Result

This started with a very ordinary need: I wanted a small garbage bin in a useful location. As often happens, the interesting part was working through all the details that turn the basic object into something pleasant to use.

The removable bin and handle make emptying easy. The alternative mounts make installation flexible. Most importantly, the balanced flap gives the bin a simple automatic action without electronics, springs or a complicated linkage.

Download the Logical Wall Bin on Thangs

If you print one, I would be interested to hear where you install it and how you use it. You can reach me at logicalplanet3d@gmail.com, or follow the LogicalPlanet community links at logicalplanet.com.

The post Logical Wall Bin — A Compact, Removable Bin That Opens Itself first appeared on logicalplanet.

Every growing season seems to start the same way — stacks of flimsy plastic seed trays, soil everywhere, seedlings sitting in soggy bottoms, and roots already circling before the plants are even ready to move outside.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Most seed-starting systems are designed to be cheap and disposable, not to actually support strong early plant development.

These deep cell plug trays were designed to change that.

Instead of shallow cups and messy watering, they create a controlled, clean growing environment that promotes healthy root growth, proper drainage, and easy transplanting — all in reusable modular sizes that scale from small test batches to larger planting runs.

Whether you’re starting a few peppers or filling a full shelf with seedlings, the 2×3, 2×5, and 3×5 trays provide the same optimized growing conditions in flexible footprints.

What It Is & How It Works

Each plug tray is built as a complete propagation system focused on moisture control, airflow, and root health.

Deep growing cells give seedlings room to develop strong early root systems while maintaining excellent drainage. A translucent humidity dome traps warmth and moisture during germination, while built-in micro-vent spaces allow controlled airflow to prevent stagnant conditions.

The cells sit in a raised propagation tray that creates an airflow and drainage gap underneath. This enables clean bottom watering, prevents water buildup, and works perfectly with seed heat mats for faster germination.

Together, these elements form a compact micro-environment that encourages quicker sprouting, healthier growth, and far less mess.

Key Parts & Mechanisms

Each tray size uses the same thoughtfully engineered components:

Deep Plug Cells
Tall growing chambers with internal root-guiding ribs that direct roots downward rather than spiraling, creating dense, compact root plugs that transplant cleanly.

Push-Up Ejectors
Removable bases inside each cell allow the entire soil plug and plant to be lifted out gently — no pulling or root damage. Drainage holes in the ejectors prevent oversaturation and support bottom watering.

Raised Propagation Tray
A rigid support tray that holds the cells aligned while creating airflow and drainage underneath to keep roots healthy and soil properly aerated.

Humidity Dome
A translucent cover that maintains high humidity for germination while passive vent spaces provide controlled airflow for healthier early growth.

Size & Dimensions

The deep cell plug trays are available in three modular formats:

2×3 Tray — 6 cells
Great for small batches, specialty seeds, or limited space.

2×5 Tray — 10 cells
A balanced size for moderate planting runs.

3×5 Tray — 15 cells
Ideal for larger starts when prepping full gardens.

Each cell features approximately 60mm of growing depth, making them especially well suited for:

• peppers and tomatoes
• herbs and flowers
• seedlings that benefit from strong root systems

The deeper design allows plants to remain in the trays longer before transplanting while building healthier roots than shallow starter trays.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

All components are designed to print easily using common filaments and standard slicer settings.

PLA works perfectly for indoor growing. For longer-term durability or higher humidity environments, PETG or ASA are excellent options.

Recommended baseline settings:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• 4 walls
• 5 top/bottom layers
• 30–40% infill
• No supports required

The geometry is forgiving and optimized for strong, clean prints.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Very little post-processing is required.

After printing:

• Gently flex each ejector base to ensure smooth movement
• Clear any minor stringing around drainage holes
• Test the push-up action once or twice

Once done, the trays are ready to fill and plant.

Assembly (If Required)

No assembly is required.

The plug cells drop directly into the propagation tray, ejectors slide into place, and the humidity dome rests on top.

Everything is designed as a simple modular drop-in system for easy cleaning and long-term reuse.

Everyday Use & Operation

The workflow is clean and straightforward:

• Pre-moisten potting mix
• Fill each cell (a single-cell soil funnel is included for mess-free filling)
• Sow seeds and lightly cover
• Place the humidity dome on top for germination
• Bottom water as needed
• Remove dome once seedlings emerge
• Push up ejectors to transplant cleanly when ready

Reusable plant markers designed for standard 12mm × 40mm labels (such as Nimbot-style labels) — or simple handwritten notes — make tracking varieties easy throughout the growing process.

Everything stays organized, clean, and frustration-free.

Why This Design Exists

These plug trays were created to replace disposable seed starters with a reusable, well-engineered system that actually supports plant health.

Instead of dealing with warped plastic, soggy soil, and weak roots, the focus is on:

• controlled moisture
• healthy airflow
• strong root structure
• clean transplanting
• modular scalability

They also form the foundation of a larger modular growing ecosystem that will continue to expand over time — allowing seed starting to integrate seamlessly into larger indoor growing setups.

For now, these trays offer a simple, professional-grade way to start stronger plants at home.

The post Deep Cell Plug Trays – Seed Starters first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

My design uses the classic funnel leading to bait strategy. And, I feel it has the potential to be “better” for a couple of reasons as follows:

1. I have made the funnel top quite large. Wasps are visually oriented and so making the top of the funnel large and yellow should increase the chances of a wasp finding the trap.
2. I have added a twist-to-open iris-style closure mechanism that a) provides a convenient closure when you want to close the trap to move it, and b) when the iris is open, the blades of the iris act as leaves to further enhance the visual appeal of the trap.
3. Lastly, I have made a PET bottle and a mason jar version of the traps so it can be attached conveniently to either of those types of containers.

I have included designs for both standard and wide-mouth mason jars.

The only issue I have seen so far is that the hot sun can affect the 3d printed parts quite easily if it is left to bake in the heat. So keep it out of the direct sunlight.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Assembly is very straightforward, and all the pieces of the trap snap or fit together easily without any added hardware, fasteners or adhesives.

The post A Better Wasp Trap first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

IceCozy is a homemade ice “gel” pack (or freezer pack) that you 3D print and fill with a sugar (or salt) water solution. Once frozen, it will help to keep your drink significantly more chilled when compared to not using it (See my bench test results below). I developed this for the DrinkColder, but it can be used independently in any other application.

My original attempt to make an ice mould failed for a variety of reasons, and in the end, I decided no one really wants their drink sitting in a pool of water (from the melted ice) because that means it will drip on you every time you take a sip. But more importantly, water expands (about 9%) when frozen, making it very challenging to have a precise mould and fit into the DrinkColder. On the other hand, water saturated with sugar or anything similar does not expand. So the freezer “gel” solution I am using here allows a very accurately sized case to fit snug against your beverage.

Its slim and compact size limits its cooling power, so I think I will eventually work on some larger ones that might be standalone or some other style of fun drink holder. And, they can all use this same formulation.

It is critical that you print with modified printer settings to ensure the printed part is as leak-proof as possible. If you do not know, if you simply 3d print a container, it will most certainly leak when you put water in it. There are lots of strategies for making it leak-proof, but many require you to line it with epoxy or silicone, or something similar. My goal is to use a printed part without modification. We can do that by a) increasing the flow ratio to force a tighter print, and of course, you must print with more walls, more top and bottom layers, and 100% infill. And, b) increasing the viscosity of the water solution you put inside. Since water has a very low viscosity, it leaks easily through the microscopic pores in the printed container. But converting the water solution into a gel changes its ability to flow.

So first, please review my recommended print settings carefully. Then you should have a much more leak-resistant container. And that will be good enough because we are going to fill it with a homemade high-viscosity gel that will have a difficult time flowing through any remaining microscopic holes in the printed container. Once you fill the printed container with the gel, you close it by screwing on the lid. I have made that threaded connection quite tight to improve leak resistance, so you need to apply a small amount of lubricant or cooking oil to the threads as well as the top inside wall where the lid fits.

The gel inside commercial gel packs has always kind of scared me because it looks like something you do not want to consume, yet we often place it near consumables to keep them cold. But it turns out that whether the commercial ones are toxic or not, it does not need to be. Saturating water with sugar (and/or salt) can give you a high-density solution that functions as an excellent freezer pack. And, by using a thickening agent (xanthan gum), even when it comes to room temperature (or warmer), it will have a very difficult time leaking through your printed container.

Now, with all that said, I did test putting the thickened solution into a 3d printed vessel with default print settings, and it worked. The gel solution was too thick to flow through the walls. But I do not recommend relying on that. I also tested putting the sugar water solution without the thickening agent into a container printed using my modified settings (103% flow ratio). And, it also held. This might be acceptable. But leaking a sugar solution in the hot summer sun would be bad news, so I strongly recommend doing both, using the thickening agent and printing with modified settings.

I recommend printing and making multiple IceCozies so you can always have a few frozen ones standing by. I have also included a special funnel to make filling the container easier.

Bench Testing: Performance You Can Feel – Even After an Hour

I ran a bench test using water-filled aluminum cans that I refrigerated to 3c and wireless temperature probes, comparing four different setups at room temperature (~22c):

• Can 1: On the counter – open air
• Can 2: In DrinkColder
• Can 3: In DrinkColder + our IceCozy insert
• An ambient air probe (for reference)

Temperature after 30 minutes:

• Open air: 9c (Cool to cold)
• DrinkColder only: 8c (Chilled, refreshing)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 4c (Ice Cold)

Temperature after 60 minutes:

• Open air: 13c (Cool-ish)
• DrinkColder only: 10c (Cool to cold)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 6c (Chilled, refreshing)

What Counts as “Cold”?

For reference, these are the temperature ranges of the coldness categories I used:

• Ice Cold = 0–4 c – “Just out of the fridge”
• Chilled, refreshing = 5–8 c – “Still cold, perfect”
• Cool to cold = 9–12 c – “Still fine” for most people
• Cool-ish = 13–15 c – “Not cold, but OK”
• Mild or warm = 16 c+ – “This is getting too warm”

So after a full hour sitting out, the IceCozy system kept the drink in the “Chilled, refreshing” zone, while the unprotected can was already well into warm territory.
And the best part? – Even at the 90-minute mark, the IceCozy setup was still holding at just 8c — still within the refreshing zone — while the open can had climbed to nearly 14c.

Here is the formulation I have arrived at, and it works really well. This recipe will create 400g of gel, which is enough for filling 4 IceCozies (100g in each).

Xanthan Gum Syrup Gel Recipe for Freezer Pack

Ingredients:

• 200 ml or 200 g (~¾ cup) hot water (just under boiling is best for dissolving sugar)
• 200 g (~1 cup) white sugar (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio)
• 0.6 g xanthan gum (≈¼ teaspoon)
• 3–5 g salt (½ to 1 tsp)

Steps:

1. Mix dry ingredients: Combine sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large bowl. Stir/mix well.
2. Add hot water: Pour the hot water onto the dry mix and whisk for 30–60 seconds until smooth.
3. Let rest 5–10 min: It will thicken as it cools.
4. Pour into IceCozy cup up to the threads while warm. Exactly 100g (3.5 oz) of solution is perfect in one IceCozy.

How to Get the Best Cooling Performance

• Pre-chill your drink – Start with a can that’s been refrigerated for several hours — the IceCozy is designed to maintain cold, not create it.
• Freeze your IceCozy solid – Let it freeze overnight for best results. The syrup-based gel stays colder longer than regular ice. Freeze several so you have more standing by when needed.
• Assemble just before use – Place the frozen IceCozy inside the DrinkColder and drop your can in.
• Keep it out of the sun – Use the DrinkColder to create additional insulation and shade your beverage from the sun. For even greater effect, keep the DrinkColder out of the direct sun.
• Don’t open it often – Every time you lift the can, you let warmth in — keep it sealed when not sipping.

IMPORTANT:

This method of keeping your beverage cool depends entirely on starting with a refrigerated drink. The IceCozy contains about 100 ml of syrup, while a 12 fl oz beverage holds approximately 355 ml of liquid. That gives the IceCozy about 8,000 J of thermal capacity compared to the drink’s 20,800 J. In other words, it’s not designed to chill a warm beverage — only to help keep a cold one cold for longer.

Freezing the IceCozy means -18c (freezer temperature).

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

In order to make these parts more likely to retain water, please set the Flow Rate to 103% in your slicer. If needed, you can go higher up to 105%.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is not too much to say about assembly. Make your solution, and while it is still warm, pour it into the IceCozy cup. I have included a design for a funnel to help with this process but you could also use a squeeze bottle.

Fill the solution up to the threads. You do not need to leave headspace beyond that as there is a gap in the lid.

It can be very beneficial to apply some lubricant or cooking oil on the threads of the lid before screwing it into place.

The post IceCozy first appeared on logicalplanet.

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GearBin is a fully 3D printable mini trash bin with a unique mechanical twist. Designed for use with biodegradable dog waste/poop bags as liners, it’s the ideal solution for food scraps, backyard clean-up, BBQ prep, or anywhere you want a tidy, compact bin that works smarter – even your desk.

I chose to use biodegradable dog waste/poop bags for this because they are a fraction of the cost of biodegradable kitchen bags and smaller so you can discard them more frequently at a lower cost.  

Our issue is we do not want to waste the more expensive biodegradable kitchen bags so we try to use them for several days. But by the end of a few days the kitchen waste can start to smell to then you throw it away without filling the bag… wasteful. So back to the small dog poop bags that are much lower cost and the right size for daily discarding.

The GearBin could be ideal for a wide range of applications including:

• Office or desk
• Kitchen countertops
• Outdoor prep areas and BBQ stations
• Composting and daily food waste
• Eco-conscious homes using dog poop bags for liners

The main features of the design are:

Gear-Driven Push Lid:
Open the lid with a simple press on the front bar—no electronics, just clean, mechanical magic.

Folding Liner Frame:
The innovative push-push mechanism folds the bag frame inwards for easy loading and unloading of liners. Holds standard dog poop bags securely.

100% Snap-Fit Assembly:
No glue, screws, or springs. Just print, snap together, and you’re ready to go.

Optional Bucket Insert:
Use with or without a removable bucket insert (included) to catch leaks and assist with liner removal.

I watched a reel promoting a small garbage bin with a folding frame to make it easier to install the liner bag. I thought that was a great idea so that is what I did too. But I made it using a push-push style so you can press it once to collapse the frame and then again to open it once the bag is installed. And, you can do the same to remove the bag.

I have also included a bucket that sits in the GearBin and essentially creates a safe space for the bag. It makes sure the bag can be pulled out from the GearBin even if it is jam-packed. And, that in the event the bag breaks or leaks you have a containment system. But the bucket also means you can use the GearBin without a bag.

I have included some exploded diagrams to help visualize what the GearBin is but to assemble it, you need to watch my instructional video linked at the bottom of this post.

Print Settings

You can print everything in PLA but you should consider printing the spring components in PETG. I have identified those in the print settings table below.

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

I have linked my assembly instructional video below, so please check that out. But also note there are a few pieces of print support to be removed after printing.

The Lid has a small strip of print support that sits under the print-in-place hinge. So look for that as you loosen the hinge after printing.

As well the Bucket has print support on each side to create the handle holes. Carefully break those free before using.

If you are building the GearBin you will definitely need to watch the following assembly instruction video…

The post GearBin™ – Mini Mechanized Trash Bin first appeared on logicalplanet.

I reviewed a bunch of them out there in the market and tried to improve upon them. That may be subjective but I find this one to work extremely well. Simply lay a stem into the stripper using the slot closest to the size of the stem, squeeze closed the stripper, and pull the stem. So much better than using your finger when doing a large volume of plants.

Printing

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
Infill = 40%, Cubic
Ironing = OFF (not needed)
Support = All required support is designed into this product
Brim = NO (a brim can complicate details of print-in-place parts and parts printed close together – If you have to use a brim, set it to “outside only”)
Material = Food grade PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
Print Orientation: As shown below.

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Herb Stripper first appeared on logicalplanet.

Simply screw it to your wall or cabinet and hang pot lids in it. The lids must have an inside edge like glass lids typically do. Some metal lids do and some don’t – so be sure to check out your lids before printing this.

The Lid Hanger is very strong and will easily handle the weight of 4 lids. I would be happy to make it in other sizes if anyone wants it bigger or smaller.

Hanging and removing lids in the hanger is very easy but does require you to slow down a little so that you do not knock off other lids as you insert or remove a lid.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I chose to use PETG.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required. Just screw it to a wall or cabinet.

The post Lid Stack Hanger first appeared on logicalplanet.

The BevvyShade is essentially a drink coaster with a sunshade attached to it. Just drop your drink onto the coaster and rotate it for optimal shade. The lack of sun on your drink slows the inevitable cooling – keeping your drink colder longer.

It is quite a simple design but with this 3rd generation, I now have built-in flip-out legs to stabilize the BevvyShade in the event of wind. These legs are print-in-place and no hardware, fasteners or adhesives are needed.

With this generation, I have also made it slightly shorter. It is now 242mm tall so it can be printed on many common-size printers.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I choose to use PETG for its durability and flexibility.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 4 (1.6mm)
Infill = 40%
Ironing = ON

Support:
Designed to print without additional print support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required other than removing the 4 pieces of built-in print support as shown in the accompanying illustration.

The post BevvyShade3 first appeared on logicalplanet.