I like to grow herbs and vegetables for cooking, and this year I am adding Thai peppers and jalapenos. My plan is to smoke the jalapenos to make chipoltes. I can’t wait, but I need to get an early start on these peppers in our colder climate. And, so I have created an indoor seed starting and growing platform. Later, I will ty to use this for growing some herbs indoors, and I will also apply some of my hydroponic experience to make an insert for hydroponic growing.

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Every growing season I found myself juggling trays, heat mats, lights balanced on boxes, and awkward height adjustments as seedlings shot up faster than expected. It worked — but it was messy, unstable, and never quite dialed in.

The Logical Grow Platform (LGP) was designed to solve that problem in a clean, modular, fully printable way.

Instead of building a temporary setup every spring, the LGP creates a dedicated growing platform that holds your seed trays, integrates optional bottom heat, supports a common LED grow panel, and adjusts smoothly as your plants grow — all while staying compact enough to print on a standard 250mm bed.

It’s a system meant to grow with you, not something you outgrow in two weeks.

What It Is & How It Works

At its core, the LGP is a snap-together main body that holds seed starting trays inside a raised platform, with two adjustable threaded posts that support a removable light hood above.

The hood holds a standard aluminum LED grow panel, while the base can optionally house a low-power reptile-style heater for bottom warmth during germination.

As seedlings emerge and stretch upward, you simply rotate the posts to raise the light — keeping an optimal distance without stacking books or rebuilding your setup.

Everything is modular:

• Trays drop in and swap out easily
• The hood lifts off instantly for watering or transplanting
• Height adjusts smoothly with precise control

Key Parts & Mechanisms

The LGP is built around a few carefully designed functional elements.

Snap-Together Main Body
The base assembles from interlocking pieces using tongue-and-groove joints and internal latches. It locks rigidly while still allowing disassembly if needed.

Adjustable Threaded Posts
Each post raises or lowers the hood smoothly with every rotation — about 6mm (roughly 1/4”) per turn.

An extended grip rib acts as a visual rotation marker so you can keep the hood perfectly level if you want precise alignment.

The posts can also be printed mirrored if you prefer counter-rotating motion instead of both turning the same direction.

Two-Piece Snap Hood
The hood prints in two identical halves that slide together over the LED panel and lock underneath with printed clips — no hardware required.

Integrated Cable Strain Relief
Both the hood and base include built-in cord management points to protect and route power cables cleanly.

Size & Dimensions

Despite being a complete growing platform, the LGP stays compact enough for shelves, desks, and indoor grow spaces.

The footprint is roughly 445mm long by 180mm wide, with height adjustable from about 175mm up to nearly 390mm depending on post position.

It comfortably fits multiple Logical Grow trays while remaining stable and easy to move.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

The Logical Grow Platform is designed as a functional print — strength matters more than cosmetic perfection.

Recommended settings focus on durability:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• Thick walls and solid top/bottom layers
• 40% cubic infill for general use or 100% for maximum longevity

PLA works well for indoor use, while PETG or ASA are ideal for higher heat or long-term durability.

Everything prints support-free in strength-optimized orientations.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Because the adjustable posts are printed with tight tolerances to eliminate wobble, they may need a quick break-in.

This is done by gently squeezing or tapping the post sections, then fully extending and retracting them once or twice until motion becomes smooth.

An included Post Tool acts as a small wrench to help rotate the internal elements if needed.

Once loosened, the movement becomes effortless and precise.

Assembly

Assembly is entirely snap-fit — no screws, glue, or hardware required.

Main Body
The end pieces slide into the center section and click into place using built-in latches.
If the bottom tongue-and-groove features don’t perfectly self-align, a gentle flex will seat them flush.

Adjustable Posts
Prepared posts press into the connectors in each end of the base and snap securely.

Hood
The two hood halves slide onto the LED panel and lock together underneath using printed clips.

The hood then rests directly on the adjustable posts for quick removal.

Everyday Use & Operation

Using the LGP quickly becomes second nature.

Start seeds in your trays, drop them into the base, and optionally add bottom heat for faster germination.

Once sprouts appear, lower the hood close to the seedlings for strong early growth. As plants stretch, rotate the posts to raise the light smoothly.

The hood lifts off instantly for watering, thinning, or transplanting.

Everything stays organized, stable, and perfectly positioned through every growth stage.

Why This Design Exists

The Logical Grow Platform was created to replace the unstable pile-of-stuff grow setups most of us end up using.

It’s about:

• Clean organization
• Smooth mechanical adjustment
• Modular expansion
• Turning seed starting into a proper system

It also forms the foundation of the broader Logical Grow ecosystem — with interchangeable trays, accessories like filling funnels and reusable plant markers, and future modules designed to scale from germination through indoor growing.

Like all LogicalPlanet designs, it’s built to be practical, durable, and satisfying to use.

The post Logical Grow Platform (LGP) first appeared on logicalplanet.

Small items have a way of taking over a workspace — pens, earbuds, glasses, sticky notes, charging accessories, and all the everyday things you reach for repeatedly throughout the day. Before long, the desk feels cluttered even when nothing major is out of place.

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The Logical DeskBox was designed to bring intentional organization to everyday desk essentials while keeping everything easy to access, compact, and portable.

What It Is

DeskBox is a 100% 3D-printed, snap-together desk organizer featuring a cantilevered upper tray and a spacious main compartment below.

When the lid is opened, the tray lifts automatically, giving clear access to both storage levels. Frequently used items stay visible and within reach in the upper tray, while bulkier or less frequently accessed items are neatly stored below.

Everything is contained in a single, compact unit that can be easily picked up and moved when needed.

Why the Cantilevered Tray Matters

Traditional desk boxes often turn into deep bins where small items disappear into the bottom. DeskBox solves this by separating storage into two functional layers:

• Upper tray for daily essentials like pens, earbuds, and small accessories
• Lower compartment for larger or less frequently used items

As the lid opens, the tray lifts automatically — no digging, no stacking, and no lost items.

Designed to Work Alone or as a System

DeskBox can be used completely on its own as a compact desk organizer, but it was also designed to pair perfectly with the Logical CableNest.

When stacked on a matching-width CableNest:

• DeskBox organizes everyday desk items
• CableNest contains power adapters and cable clutter

Together, they form a clean, portable desk system — ideal for shared workspaces, home offices, and flexible setups where everything needs to be easy to move and quick to tidy.

Each component also works independently, so the system can be built up over time.

Modular Sizing

DeskBox is available in multiple widths, all sharing the same height and depth. The different sizes allow you to scale storage based on your workspace and the amount of desk essentials you keep close at hand.

Smaller sizes work well for compact setups or minimalist desks, while larger versions provide generous storage for multi-device or maker-style workspaces.

Each DeskBox width has a corresponding CableNest designed to match it for clean stacking.

Assembly & Printing

DeskBox is designed with the same principles used across LogicalPlanet projects:

• 100% 3D printable
• Snap-together design
• No hardware required
• Designed to be disassembled if needed
• Assembly is identical across all sizes

Clear diagrams are included to guide assembly, disassembly, and everyday use.

Why DeskBox Exists

DeskBox was created to solve a simple but persistent problem:
the small things on a desk rarely have a proper home.

By giving everyday essentials a compact, accessible, and intentional storage space, DeskBox helps keep workspaces calm, functional, and easy to reset — whether you work at a dedicated desk or a shared surface like a family table.

The post Logical DeskBox first appeared on logicalplanet.

Over the last few years, toilet paper manufacturers have been steadily shrinking the inner cardboard core. That doesn’t sound like a big deal… until you realize that a lot of holders (especially simple or minimalist ones) rely on a fairly consistent core size to work properly.

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My original tank-mounted toilet paper holder worked great for years. Then suddenly rolls started falling off, rattling around, or just not fitting the way they used to. That’s what led to this second-generation redesign.

What Changed in Gen 2

The biggest difference in this version is the post itself.

Instead of relying on a rigid diameter that assumes all TP cores are the same, the Gen 2 design uses a compliant, flexible post that adapts to different core sizes — including the smaller modern ones. It grips the roll securely without binding and without needing springs, bearings, or hardware.

The rest of the design stays true to the original goals:

• Fully 3D printed
• No hardware
• No supports
• Simple, functional, and easy to print

It still mounts directly on the back of the toilet tank, keeping the roll accessible without drilling holes or installing wall brackets.

Single and Double Roll Versions

I’ve included both single-roll and double-roll variants.
The double version is surprisingly handy — not just as a backup roll, but also if you like having different paper types available.

Both versions use the same compliant post idea, so they handle modern rolls equally well.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

Why This Update Matters

This is a good example of why I like iterative, real-world design. Nothing about toilet paper holders is glamorous — but when something that used to work suddenly doesn’t, the fix needs to be simple, reliable, and durable.

Gen 2 exists because the world changed slightly, and the design needed to adapt.

Try It Out

If you’ve noticed rolls slipping off older holders or not fitting the way they used to, this version should solve that problem cleanly. As always, feedback is welcome — especially if you run into edge cases or unusual roll sizes.

The post Toilet Paper Holder 2 first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The hook is rotatable and extends out for use and in for collapsing into the main body. The two side arm sections also fold into the main body for storage or travel.

This design uses compliant latches to hold the compartments closed. I might try to make a combination lock version in the future. And, a few people have requested a thicker body (bigger storage).

Once deployed, the hanger is full-size.

Print Settings

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

The post StashHanger 2.0 first appeared on logicalplanet.

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It is a super simple 1-piece print. And, it attaches by simply placing it behind a wall plate. The existing wall plate screws hold the wall plate and the Mini eShelf in place with considerable strength. Definitely adequate enough for small electronics or similar.

A complication I discovered after designing my first one and getting a few followers to test it was, not all wall plates are the same size. So I have created a few size variants to hopefully allow it to work for most people.

On the top back centre of the shelf is a recess (pass through hole) so that electrical wires can be container when using the Mini eShelf for charger or similar activities.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height. For best results, I suggest the following:

Assembly and Installation Notes

No assembly is required. It is ready to go right off the print plate. And, installation is a breeze. Simply unscrew your existing wall plate and then place the Mini eShelf behind it. Screw the original wall plate back into place. That’s it!!

The post Mini eShelf first appeared on logicalplanet.

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IceCozy is a homemade ice “gel” pack (or freezer pack) that you 3D print and fill with a sugar (or salt) water solution. Once frozen, it will help to keep your drink significantly more chilled when compared to not using it (See my bench test results below). I developed this for the DrinkColder, but it can be used independently in any other application.

My original attempt to make an ice mould failed for a variety of reasons, and in the end, I decided no one really wants their drink sitting in a pool of water (from the melted ice) because that means it will drip on you every time you take a sip. But more importantly, water expands (about 9%) when frozen, making it very challenging to have a precise mould and fit into the DrinkColder. On the other hand, water saturated with sugar or anything similar does not expand. So the freezer “gel” solution I am using here allows a very accurately sized case to fit snug against your beverage.

Its slim and compact size limits its cooling power, so I think I will eventually work on some larger ones that might be standalone or some other style of fun drink holder. And, they can all use this same formulation.

It is critical that you print with modified printer settings to ensure the printed part is as leak-proof as possible. If you do not know, if you simply 3d print a container, it will most certainly leak when you put water in it. There are lots of strategies for making it leak-proof, but many require you to line it with epoxy or silicone, or something similar. My goal is to use a printed part without modification. We can do that by a) increasing the flow ratio to force a tighter print, and of course, you must print with more walls, more top and bottom layers, and 100% infill. And, b) increasing the viscosity of the water solution you put inside. Since water has a very low viscosity, it leaks easily through the microscopic pores in the printed container. But converting the water solution into a gel changes its ability to flow.

So first, please review my recommended print settings carefully. Then you should have a much more leak-resistant container. And that will be good enough because we are going to fill it with a homemade high-viscosity gel that will have a difficult time flowing through any remaining microscopic holes in the printed container. Once you fill the printed container with the gel, you close it by screwing on the lid. I have made that threaded connection quite tight to improve leak resistance, so you need to apply a small amount of lubricant or cooking oil to the threads as well as the top inside wall where the lid fits.

The gel inside commercial gel packs has always kind of scared me because it looks like something you do not want to consume, yet we often place it near consumables to keep them cold. But it turns out that whether the commercial ones are toxic or not, it does not need to be. Saturating water with sugar (and/or salt) can give you a high-density solution that functions as an excellent freezer pack. And, by using a thickening agent (xanthan gum), even when it comes to room temperature (or warmer), it will have a very difficult time leaking through your printed container.

Now, with all that said, I did test putting the thickened solution into a 3d printed vessel with default print settings, and it worked. The gel solution was too thick to flow through the walls. But I do not recommend relying on that. I also tested putting the sugar water solution without the thickening agent into a container printed using my modified settings (103% flow ratio). And, it also held. This might be acceptable. But leaking a sugar solution in the hot summer sun would be bad news, so I strongly recommend doing both, using the thickening agent and printing with modified settings.

I recommend printing and making multiple IceCozies so you can always have a few frozen ones standing by. I have also included a special funnel to make filling the container easier.

Bench Testing: Performance You Can Feel – Even After an Hour

I ran a bench test using water-filled aluminum cans that I refrigerated to 3c and wireless temperature probes, comparing four different setups at room temperature (~22c):

• Can 1: On the counter – open air
• Can 2: In DrinkColder
• Can 3: In DrinkColder + our IceCozy insert
• An ambient air probe (for reference)

Temperature after 30 minutes:

• Open air: 9c (Cool to cold)
• DrinkColder only: 8c (Chilled, refreshing)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 4c (Ice Cold)

Temperature after 60 minutes:

• Open air: 13c (Cool-ish)
• DrinkColder only: 10c (Cool to cold)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 6c (Chilled, refreshing)

What Counts as “Cold”?

For reference, these are the temperature ranges of the coldness categories I used:

• Ice Cold = 0–4 c – “Just out of the fridge”
• Chilled, refreshing = 5–8 c – “Still cold, perfect”
• Cool to cold = 9–12 c – “Still fine” for most people
• Cool-ish = 13–15 c – “Not cold, but OK”
• Mild or warm = 16 c+ – “This is getting too warm”

So after a full hour sitting out, the IceCozy system kept the drink in the “Chilled, refreshing” zone, while the unprotected can was already well into warm territory.
And the best part? – Even at the 90-minute mark, the IceCozy setup was still holding at just 8c — still within the refreshing zone — while the open can had climbed to nearly 14c.

Here is the formulation I have arrived at, and it works really well. This recipe will create 400g of gel, which is enough for filling 4 IceCozies (100g in each).

Xanthan Gum Syrup Gel Recipe for Freezer Pack

Ingredients:

• 200 ml or 200 g (~¾ cup) hot water (just under boiling is best for dissolving sugar)
• 200 g (~1 cup) white sugar (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio)
• 0.6 g xanthan gum (≈¼ teaspoon)
• 3–5 g salt (½ to 1 tsp)

Steps:

1. Mix dry ingredients: Combine sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large bowl. Stir/mix well.
2. Add hot water: Pour the hot water onto the dry mix and whisk for 30–60 seconds until smooth.
3. Let rest 5–10 min: It will thicken as it cools.
4. Pour into IceCozy cup up to the threads while warm. Exactly 100g (3.5 oz) of solution is perfect in one IceCozy.

How to Get the Best Cooling Performance

• Pre-chill your drink – Start with a can that’s been refrigerated for several hours — the IceCozy is designed to maintain cold, not create it.
• Freeze your IceCozy solid – Let it freeze overnight for best results. The syrup-based gel stays colder longer than regular ice. Freeze several so you have more standing by when needed.
• Assemble just before use – Place the frozen IceCozy inside the DrinkColder and drop your can in.
• Keep it out of the sun – Use the DrinkColder to create additional insulation and shade your beverage from the sun. For even greater effect, keep the DrinkColder out of the direct sun.
• Don’t open it often – Every time you lift the can, you let warmth in — keep it sealed when not sipping.

IMPORTANT:

This method of keeping your beverage cool depends entirely on starting with a refrigerated drink. The IceCozy contains about 100 ml of syrup, while a 12 fl oz beverage holds approximately 355 ml of liquid. That gives the IceCozy about 8,000 J of thermal capacity compared to the drink’s 20,800 J. In other words, it’s not designed to chill a warm beverage — only to help keep a cold one cold for longer.

Freezing the IceCozy means -18c (freezer temperature).

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

In order to make these parts more likely to retain water, please set the Flow Rate to 103% in your slicer. If needed, you can go higher up to 105%.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is not too much to say about assembly. Make your solution, and while it is still warm, pour it into the IceCozy cup. I have included a design for a funnel to help with this process but you could also use a squeeze bottle.

Fill the solution up to the threads. You do not need to leave headspace beyond that as there is a gap in the lid.

It can be very beneficial to apply some lubricant or cooking oil on the threads of the lid before screwing it into place.

The post IceCozy first appeared on logicalplanet.

I’m not entirely sure how I arrived at designing this. I just had a thought in my head that a self-closing beverage holder would be fun. It started as something completely different, but once I got on the design that it is now, I just loved it. It is so satisfying to play with and fun to keep a drink concealed and cool in.

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As it stands now, it is one of my favourite designs. I think I feel that way because of the collapsing iris design that I created. While it is really just one element of the design and may be lost on many, it is very slick. The blades of the iris are compounding so that they can collapse into a smaller space than the radial distance of the opening. I am definitely going to try to find other applications for that!

And, I managed to get the iris to activate by the vertical movement of the upper section of the DrinkColder. This is another area of design that fascinates me… using human power in a way that is almost not even noticed. In this case, by pressing down on the DrinkColder in a very natural way you receive the beverage but at the same time, you are moving the machine inside.

I have often thought about how we open and close doors in the same way giving up some energy every time we do it; how can that be harnessed and used?

Anyway, back to the DrinkColder… the other aspect of this design that I really love is the counterweight effect of the top and bottom moving halves which makes the whole thing work. And, when a drink is removed the DrinkColder stays open for it to be returned to.

No motors, no springs — just effective geometry, balance, and symetrical gears.

Features

• Fits standard 355ml (12oz) cans
• Includes optional cozy insert or TPU ice ring mold to keep your drink extra cold
• Uses internal counterbalance and gears for motion — no electronics
• Designed for PLA with no supports required
• Visual assembly guide included
• Dimensions: 114mm x 114mm x 167mm (4.5” x 4.5” x 6.6”)
• Top iris opening: 70mm diameter

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

Since posting the DrinkColder, I had someone point out that printing with 2 different layer heights will help parts slide better in situations like this design. I will experiment with that and post an update when I can.

Post Printing and Assembly Notes

Deburr any sharp edges after printing. And, use light lubrication at rotating joints.

Please see the assembly video for instructions…

The post DrinkColder first appeared on logicalplanet.

If you know anything about me it is probably that I like lockable containers, puzzles and complex things that are interesting and fun. The BinaryBin pressed all the buttons for me as I started designing it. It is super fun.

The truth though is that I have not used binary and hex for so long I could barely get my mind going but once I did it all came back to me. And, that felt really good.

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This BinaryBin is about 1 litre in size and features a single-piece base that is secured by the lift of the top. However, the top can only be lifted off when the correct binary code is used by setting the switch values. With a 16 bit code there are 65,536 possible combinations.

I feel one of the most fun aspects of this lockable container is that the 16-bit combination can be saved as a hexadecimal number which means you need to do some conversion and exercise that skill. That adds another layer of “security” to it. So it could be a great teaching (and learning) tool also.

The design uses a planetary gear approach so that the centre gear (the sun gear) is the handle and can be turned if the correct code is selected on the switches. And, when it turns it rotates the ring gear which has the lock latches on it. Therefore, once turned, the lid of the container can be opened and when returned to its original position the lid can be locked again.

I feel the pop-up and lay flat centre hand is a good design that I will likely use again in the future. It makes for a tidy finish when not in use.

Setting the lock combination involves choosing a “0” or “1” switch when assembling the lid. Each of the switches represents one bit of the combination.

I have included TPU bumpers which are entirely optional. I feel they give the container a more rugged look and a bit more finish.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Please see the following video for assembly instructions:

There is one piece of support to be removed after printing as illustrated here.

The post BinaryBin first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The sides and ends of the CardDock assembly rotate freely and are positioned off-centre so that their own mass causes them to flop outward. Once cards are placed on them they swing back and at the same time force the cards into the centre of the base. Simple.

I also designed a lid that could be popped onto the base for card storage in a drawer or something like that. And, the lid can also be used as another card holder. Or as a stand to place the CardDock on. The stand is not a necessary function but sometimes it can be helpful.

I have also now added hard cases for the whole line of card docks. The cases come in two styles, one is a simple 1-piece sleeve and the other is a hard sleeve with bumpers and or caps so you can complete

And, I have created a bunch of variants. Please look through my collection on Thangs.com for all the existing versions. Here is a listing of the specific variants and links to their postings.

Print Settings

Assembly Notes

Assembly is quite simple but it is important to note that the Side and End parts must be installed into the base from directly above (a vertical direction). Once the parts are rotated they are designed to be self-contained in the base.

The post CardDock and Crib first appeared on logicalplanet.

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The files for this are currently available on Thangs.com at https://than.gs/m/1256833

It isn’t so much about a car mounted version but rather making a 100% printable clamping phone holder. I mean, I think I can make this for the car but so far this is a desktop version that is also compatible with my ClampDock mount.

To make this all work, I needed a compact set of compliant springs that could clamp the phone securely and adapt to a fairly wide range of phone sizes. I also had to add in a gear which interfaces between the two spring sides so that they move in parallel and the exact same distance. Once these are put to gether you have the ClampDock. And, then various mounting options can be added.

As noted above, so far I have made an arm assembly that can hold the ClampDock at a desk, side table or similar. It uses a series of indexing “click” joints that can hold the arm assembly at variaous angle and in various positions. And, it can be free standing or attached to my ClampDock assembly.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

• Material = PLA for everything but the Springs which should be PETG and the boots for gripping the phone which should be TPU.
• Nozzle = 0.4mm
• Layer Height = 0.2mm
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Count = 4 (1.6mm)
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Support = None required
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files and the included image

Assembly Notes

Please see the link video for assembly instructions.

The post SpringDock Phone Holder first appeared on logicalplanet.