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Download the Blue Bin Hanger on Thangs

This is one of those “Why buy it when I can print it?” projects.

I wanted to get my blue recycling bins off the ground and organized. I did not need a complicated storage system—just a small, strong wall-mounted hanger that would hold the rim of each bin securely while keeping the bins easy to lift off when I needed them.

The result is the Blue Bin Hanger: a simple and very useful print that turns an unused section of wall into practical recycling-bin storage.

Getting the Bins Up and Out of the Way

Blue bins are useful, but they tend to occupy a surprising amount of floor space. Mine were sitting on the ground, where they looked untidy and made the area harder to keep organized.

The obvious answer was to hang them on the wall. The top rim of the bin already provides a strong, convenient place to support it, so the design only needed to capture that rim securely and let the bin lift on and off without fuss.

That is really the whole idea behind this project. It is not intended to be mechanically elaborate. It is a purpose-built part that solves a small, everyday problem—and it is exactly the kind of job for which having a 3D printer is so useful.

A Small Hanger with Some Useful Flexibility

The hanger is split into two receiving sections. This lets it accommodate smaller bins whose upper rims contain more ribs, rather than requiring one wide uninterrupted section of rim.

Each hanger requires only one screw, although it includes mounting holes for as many as six. I recommend using three screws for a secure installation. The spacing between the left and right hangers can be adjusted to suit the particular bin; mine are installed approximately 290 mm (11.5 inches) apart.

I also included an optional wedge for installation on sloped siding. The wedge compensates for the angle so the hanger itself can sit in the correct orientation. On a flat wall, the hangers can be installed without it.

Because the two hangers are positioned independently, there is no fixed rail or frame dictating their spacing. Set them to match your bin, fasten them to the wall, and the rim of the bin drops into place. The bin stays off the ground but remains easy to remove whenever it is time to use or empty it.

Dimensions

Each Blue Bin Hanger measures:

• 80 mm wide
• 80 mm high
• 18 mm deep
• 6 mm mounting-plate thickness
• 48 mm overall height at the front hook
• 28 mm hook height

The detailed drawing below includes the mounting-hole spacing and the dimensions of the two receiving sections.

Before mounting the hangers, check the shape and rib spacing of your own bin rim and determine the best distance between the two hangers. The approximately 290 mm spacing shown in my installation is a reference, not a required fixed dimension.

Printing the Hangers

This is a functional, load-bearing print, so strength matters more than it would for a decorative model. I recommend reviewing the slicer settings carefully rather than relying on a typical default profile.

The files are supplied in the intended print orientation. No slicer-generated supports are required. A small removable support is built into the model where needed; remove it after printing.

My recommended settings are:

I use ASA for an outdoor installation because it is better suited to weather and UV exposure. PETG is suitable for indoor or sheltered locations. As with any wall-mounted functional print, the strength of the installation also depends on using appropriate fasteners and attaching the hangers to a suitable supporting surface.

Installation

Installation is straightforward:

1. Hold the bin against the wall at the height where you want it stored.
2. Identify sections of the upper rim that fit securely into the split hanger profile.
3. Mark the position of both hangers. My hangers are approximately 290 mm apart, but yours can be spaced to suit your bin.
4. If mounting on sloped siding, place the optional compensation wedge behind each hanger.
5. Fasten each hanger to a suitable supporting surface. One screw is the minimum the design accommodates; up to six can be used, and I recommend three.
6. Lower the rim of the bin into the two hangers and confirm that it is properly seated before loading the bin.

Fastener selection will depend on the wall material and what is behind it, so use screws and anchors appropriate to your installation.

One of Those Satisfying Little Prints

Not every useful 3D-printing project has to be a complicated mechanism or a large assembly. Sometimes the best designs are the small ones that solve an annoyance and then quietly keep doing their job.

For me, this was simply a matter of getting the blue bins off the ground and giving them a proper place. A couple of compact printed parts did exactly that. The area is tidier, the floor is easier to keep clear, and the bins are still immediately accessible.

If you have similar recycling bins taking up floor space, you can download the Blue Bin Hanger from Thangs and adjust the mounting spacing to suit your own setup.

Download the Blue Bin Hanger on Thangs

If you print it, I would be interested to see how you use it—and whether your local blue bins have the same rim style as mine.

The post Blue Bin Hangers first appeared on logicalplanet.

I needed a small garbage bin that I could mount exactly where I wanted it, without taking up floor or counter space. I also wanted it to be genuinely convenient: easy to use, quick to remove for emptying, and just as quick to put back.

The lid—or more accurately, the flap—was the part that needed the most thought. It had to stay properly closed when the bin was sitting idle, but it could not take so much force to open that it got in the way of simply dropping something into the bin. The Logical Wall Bin is what I came up with.

A Small Bin for the Places That Need One

This is not intended to replace a full-size kitchen garbage can. It is a compact 4.5 L (1.2 gal) bin for the places where a small, conveniently positioned waste container is more useful: beside a barbecue, on a patio, in a workshop or garage, or on a kitchen cabinet door.

At 248 × 130 × 230 mm (9.8 × 5.1 × 9.1 in), it has a fairly low profile against the mounting surface. It can be permanently mounted to a wall or cabinet, or hung over a cabinet door without drilling into it.

The bin itself lifts in and out of the upper frame, so taking it away for emptying or cleaning does not involve removing screws or disturbing the mounting hardware. A large snap-on handle makes it easy to carry once it is out of the frame.

That quick on-and-off action was one of my main objectives for the design. A wall-mounted bin is only convenient if emptying it is convenient too.

Drop Something In and the Flap Does the Rest

The top flap rests horizontally across the opening. Drop waste onto it and the weight rotates the flap open, allowing the waste to fall into the bin. Once the item has passed through, the flap returns to its closed position automatically.

There is no lid to lift by hand and nothing needs to be left standing open while you work.

Four 6 × 3 mm magnets—two in the flap and two in the frame—hold the flap in a stable horizontal position. They also help prevent wind, birds and larger insects from pushing or pulling it open, which is useful when the bin is installed outdoors.

The goal was not simply to make the magnetic hold as strong as possible. Too much force would defeat the easy-opening action. I wanted enough holding strength to keep the flap properly closed, without making it an obstacle during normal use.

The magnet positions are offset from front to back, which gives you some control over the flap action. Install the flap in the direction that produces the opening force you prefer. You can also rotate it 180 degrees to disable the magnetic hold entirely.

Two Ways to Mount It

I designed the same bin frame to work with either a fixed wall mount or removable cabinet-door hangers.

Wall mounting

The supplied wall fixture is attached with fasteners appropriate for the mounting surface. The upper frame then lowers onto the fixture’s hooks. This keeps the installation straightforward and allows the frame to be removed without taking the fixture off the wall.

Cabinet-door mounting

For installations where holes are not desirable, the files include hangers for three common door thicknesses:

• 19.1 mm (0.75 in)
• 25.4 mm (1.00 in)
• 31.8 mm (1.25 in)

Choose the hanger that matches your door, place a pair over the top edge, and lower the bin frame onto them.

The mounting choices make it easy to try the bin in a kitchen and later move it to a workshop, barbecue area or another location without needing a different bin.

Simple, Modular Assembly

The design is divided into practical parts: the bin, upper frame, flap, handle, wall mount, and cabinet-door hangers. The exploded view below shows how the pieces relate to one another.

The handle slides upward into guides formed into the side of the bin. Once fully seated, its lower tab snaps into place. To remove it, pull the lower locking tab forward and slide the handle downward.

The four magnets are designed to press into their holes. Check the polarity before inserting them fully: each magnet in the flap needs to attract the corresponding magnet in the frame. If your printer’s tolerances leave them a little loose, a small amount of adhesive can be used to secure them.

The flap then lowers into the frame, with its pivot points aligned to the matching recesses. Once installed, it should rotate freely and return quickly to a stable horizontal position when released.

Size and Capacity

The assembled Logical Wall Bin measures:

• Width: 248 mm (9.8 in)
• Depth: 130 mm (5.1 in)
• Height: 230 mm (9.1 in)
• Capacity: approximately 4.5 L (1.2 gal)

Its narrow depth keeps it from projecting too far into the room, while the height and width provide useful capacity for a small utility bin.

Printing the Logical Wall Bin

For indoor use, I recommend PLA or PETG. For outdoor installations, use ASA or another material suitable for prolonged heat, weather and UV exposure.

The parts are supplied in their intended print orientations. No slicer-generated supports are required; small built-in supports are already incorporated where needed. The orange areas shown below should be removed before installing the cabinet-door hangers.

These are the recommended starting settings for the functional parts:

Functional prints often need more strength than ordinary decorative models, so it is worth checking these settings rather than relying automatically on a slicer’s default profile.

The Result

This started with a very ordinary need: I wanted a small garbage bin in a useful location. As often happens, the interesting part was working through all the details that turn the basic object into something pleasant to use.

The removable bin and handle make emptying easy. The alternative mounts make installation flexible. Most importantly, the balanced flap gives the bin a simple automatic action without electronics, springs or a complicated linkage.

Download the Logical Wall Bin on Thangs

If you print one, I would be interested to hear where you install it and how you use it. You can reach me at logicalplanet3d@gmail.com, or follow the LogicalPlanet community links at logicalplanet.com.

The post Logical Wall Bin — A Compact, Removable Bin That Opens Itself first appeared on logicalplanet.

Download the Logical Modular Planter System on Thangs

This project started because I wanted to grow jalapeños so I could make my own chipotles. The best growing area around my house is the front yard, where I get plenty of sun—but I didn’t have any actual garden space there.

A planter seemed like the obvious solution, but most available designs locked me into one particular size. That felt like an opportunity to do something better: design a planter made from printable sections that could be extended to suit the available space.

The planter is assembled from two end sections with as many repeating middle sections as needed. Each section is 240 mm high and 210 mm from front to back. A planter made from the two end sections is approximately 480 mm long, with additional middle sections extending it to approximately 720, 960, 1200 mm, or beyond.

A genuinely modular planter

Each section slides together and is secured using a separate 3D-printed connector at each joint. The planter sections and connectors interlock to form one structural planter without screws, bolts, or other non-printed hardware.

This lets me build the planter to suit the available space instead of trying to make the available space fit a standard planter. The sections can also be separated again if the planter needs to be disassembled.

The connector includes an embedded compliant latch that prevents the joined sections from sliding apart once it is engaged. To separate them, the latch can be depressed through the access slot using a small flat screwdriver or similar tool.

Designed with the plants in mind

The ribs add strength to the walls while encouraging roots to grow downward rather than circle around the inside of the planter. Internal drainage openings allow excess water to move through the joined sections and help prevent waterlogging.

The finished planter remains 240 mm high and 210 mm deep regardless of its length.

Printed in sections—by design

A planter longer than the printer’s build plate would normally need to be split and permanently joined afterward. In this case, the division into printable sections is an intentional part of the finished product. Each section is designed to fit on a 250 mm print bed.

The joints, connectors, and repeating middle modules are not simply compromises made to fit the parts on a printer. They are what make the planter adjustable and expandable.

That was the part of this project I found most interesting: creating something that is not merely printable in sections, but actually becomes more useful because it is sectional.

A few important printing notes

The planter shown here was printed in ASA because it was intended to remain outdoors. ASA is strongly recommended for outdoor use; PETG may be an alternative for printers that cannot print ASA.

The walls are intentionally thin to limit the total material required. The model includes removable print-support sections, so additional slicer-generated supports should not be added.

Because the tall, thin walls become increasingly vulnerable to vibration as the print progresses, the supplied slow-down-by-height settings are important. The settings I used begin slowing at 180 mm and transition through to 250 mm.

The complete recommended print and slicer settings are shown below and are also included with the model documentation.

Build it for your space

You can start with the two end sections and add middle sections until the planter reaches the length you need. This makes it useful for spaces where an ordinary fixed-size planter would be too short, too long, or simply awkward.

The complete model, printable components, and assembly information are available on Thangs:

Download the Logical Modular Planter System on Thangs

If you print one, I would be interested to see how long you make it and where you use it. You can share a make on Thangs or join the LogicalPlanet community through the links below.

LogicalPlanet community and social links

Questions, comments, or suggested improvements can also be sent to logicalplanet3d@gmail.com.

The post The Logical Modular Planter System first appeared on logicalplanet.

I like to grow herbs and vegetables for cooking, and this year I am adding Thai peppers and jalapenos. My plan is to smoke the jalapenos to make chipoltes. I can’t wait, but I need to get an early start on these peppers in our colder climate. And, so I have created an indoor seed starting and growing platform. Later, I will ty to use this for growing some herbs indoors, and I will also apply some of my hydroponic experience to make an insert for hydroponic growing.

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Every growing season I found myself juggling trays, heat mats, lights balanced on boxes, and awkward height adjustments as seedlings shot up faster than expected. It worked — but it was messy, unstable, and never quite dialed in.

The Logical Grow Platform (LGP) was designed to solve that problem in a clean, modular, fully printable way.

Instead of building a temporary setup every spring, the LGP creates a dedicated growing platform that holds your seed trays, integrates optional bottom heat, supports a common LED grow panel, and adjusts smoothly as your plants grow — all while staying compact enough to print on a standard 250mm bed.

It’s a system meant to grow with you, not something you outgrow in two weeks.

What It Is & How It Works

At its core, the LGP is a snap-together main body that holds seed starting trays inside a raised platform, with two adjustable threaded posts that support a removable light hood above.

The hood holds a standard aluminum LED grow panel, while the base can optionally house a low-power reptile-style heater for bottom warmth during germination.

As seedlings emerge and stretch upward, you simply rotate the posts to raise the light — keeping an optimal distance without stacking books or rebuilding your setup.

Everything is modular:

• Trays drop in and swap out easily
• The hood lifts off instantly for watering or transplanting
• Height adjusts smoothly with precise control

Key Parts & Mechanisms

The LGP is built around a few carefully designed functional elements.

Snap-Together Main Body
The base assembles from interlocking pieces using tongue-and-groove joints and internal latches. It locks rigidly while still allowing disassembly if needed.

Adjustable Threaded Posts
Each post raises or lowers the hood smoothly with every rotation — about 6mm (roughly 1/4”) per turn.

An extended grip rib acts as a visual rotation marker so you can keep the hood perfectly level if you want precise alignment.

The posts can also be printed mirrored if you prefer counter-rotating motion instead of both turning the same direction.

Two-Piece Snap Hood
The hood prints in two identical halves that slide together over the LED panel and lock underneath with printed clips — no hardware required.

Integrated Cable Strain Relief
Both the hood and base include built-in cord management points to protect and route power cables cleanly.

Size & Dimensions

Despite being a complete growing platform, the LGP stays compact enough for shelves, desks, and indoor grow spaces.

The footprint is roughly 445mm long by 180mm wide, with height adjustable from about 175mm up to nearly 390mm depending on post position.

It comfortably fits multiple Logical Grow trays while remaining stable and easy to move.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

The Logical Grow Platform is designed as a functional print — strength matters more than cosmetic perfection.

Recommended settings focus on durability:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• Thick walls and solid top/bottom layers
• 40% cubic infill for general use or 100% for maximum longevity

PLA works well for indoor use, while PETG or ASA are ideal for higher heat or long-term durability.

Everything prints support-free in strength-optimized orientations.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Because the adjustable posts are printed with tight tolerances to eliminate wobble, they may need a quick break-in.

This is done by gently squeezing or tapping the post sections, then fully extending and retracting them once or twice until motion becomes smooth.

An included Post Tool acts as a small wrench to help rotate the internal elements if needed.

Once loosened, the movement becomes effortless and precise.

Assembly

Assembly is entirely snap-fit — no screws, glue, or hardware required.

Main Body
The end pieces slide into the center section and click into place using built-in latches.
If the bottom tongue-and-groove features don’t perfectly self-align, a gentle flex will seat them flush.

Adjustable Posts
Prepared posts press into the connectors in each end of the base and snap securely.

Hood
The two hood halves slide onto the LED panel and lock together underneath using printed clips.

The hood then rests directly on the adjustable posts for quick removal.

Everyday Use & Operation

Using the LGP quickly becomes second nature.

Start seeds in your trays, drop them into the base, and optionally add bottom heat for faster germination.

Once sprouts appear, lower the hood close to the seedlings for strong early growth. As plants stretch, rotate the posts to raise the light smoothly.

The hood lifts off instantly for watering, thinning, or transplanting.

Everything stays organized, stable, and perfectly positioned through every growth stage.

Why This Design Exists

The Logical Grow Platform was created to replace the unstable pile-of-stuff grow setups most of us end up using.

It’s about:

• Clean organization
• Smooth mechanical adjustment
• Modular expansion
• Turning seed starting into a proper system

It also forms the foundation of the broader Logical Grow ecosystem — with interchangeable trays, accessories like filling funnels and reusable plant markers, and future modules designed to scale from germination through indoor growing.

Like all LogicalPlanet designs, it’s built to be practical, durable, and satisfying to use.

The post Logical Grow Platform (LGP) first appeared on logicalplanet.

Every growing season seems to start the same way — stacks of flimsy plastic seed trays, soil everywhere, seedlings sitting in soggy bottoms, and roots already circling before the plants are even ready to move outside.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Most seed-starting systems are designed to be cheap and disposable, not to actually support strong early plant development.

These deep cell plug trays were designed to change that.

Instead of shallow cups and messy watering, they create a controlled, clean growing environment that promotes healthy root growth, proper drainage, and easy transplanting — all in reusable modular sizes that scale from small test batches to larger planting runs.

Whether you’re starting a few peppers or filling a full shelf with seedlings, the 2×3, 2×5, and 3×5 trays provide the same optimized growing conditions in flexible footprints.

What It Is & How It Works

Each plug tray is built as a complete propagation system focused on moisture control, airflow, and root health.

Deep growing cells give seedlings room to develop strong early root systems while maintaining excellent drainage. A translucent humidity dome traps warmth and moisture during germination, while built-in micro-vent spaces allow controlled airflow to prevent stagnant conditions.

The cells sit in a raised propagation tray that creates an airflow and drainage gap underneath. This enables clean bottom watering, prevents water buildup, and works perfectly with seed heat mats for faster germination.

Together, these elements form a compact micro-environment that encourages quicker sprouting, healthier growth, and far less mess.

Key Parts & Mechanisms

Each tray size uses the same thoughtfully engineered components:

Deep Plug Cells
Tall growing chambers with internal root-guiding ribs that direct roots downward rather than spiraling, creating dense, compact root plugs that transplant cleanly.

Push-Up Ejectors
Removable bases inside each cell allow the entire soil plug and plant to be lifted out gently — no pulling or root damage. Drainage holes in the ejectors prevent oversaturation and support bottom watering.

Raised Propagation Tray
A rigid support tray that holds the cells aligned while creating airflow and drainage underneath to keep roots healthy and soil properly aerated.

Humidity Dome
A translucent cover that maintains high humidity for germination while passive vent spaces provide controlled airflow for healthier early growth.

Size & Dimensions

The deep cell plug trays are available in three modular formats:

2×3 Tray — 6 cells
Great for small batches, specialty seeds, or limited space.

2×5 Tray — 10 cells
A balanced size for moderate planting runs.

3×5 Tray — 15 cells
Ideal for larger starts when prepping full gardens.

Each cell features approximately 60mm of growing depth, making them especially well suited for:

• peppers and tomatoes
• herbs and flowers
• seedlings that benefit from strong root systems

The deeper design allows plants to remain in the trays longer before transplanting while building healthier roots than shallow starter trays.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

All components are designed to print easily using common filaments and standard slicer settings.

PLA works perfectly for indoor growing. For longer-term durability or higher humidity environments, PETG or ASA are excellent options.

Recommended baseline settings:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• 4 walls
• 5 top/bottom layers
• 30–40% infill
• No supports required

The geometry is forgiving and optimized for strong, clean prints.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Very little post-processing is required.

After printing:

• Gently flex each ejector base to ensure smooth movement
• Clear any minor stringing around drainage holes
• Test the push-up action once or twice

Once done, the trays are ready to fill and plant.

Assembly (If Required)

No assembly is required.

The plug cells drop directly into the propagation tray, ejectors slide into place, and the humidity dome rests on top.

Everything is designed as a simple modular drop-in system for easy cleaning and long-term reuse.

Everyday Use & Operation

The workflow is clean and straightforward:

• Pre-moisten potting mix
• Fill each cell (a single-cell soil funnel is included for mess-free filling)
• Sow seeds and lightly cover
• Place the humidity dome on top for germination
• Bottom water as needed
• Remove dome once seedlings emerge
• Push up ejectors to transplant cleanly when ready

Reusable plant markers designed for standard 12mm × 40mm labels (such as Nimbot-style labels) — or simple handwritten notes — make tracking varieties easy throughout the growing process.

Everything stays organized, clean, and frustration-free.

Why This Design Exists

These plug trays were created to replace disposable seed starters with a reusable, well-engineered system that actually supports plant health.

Instead of dealing with warped plastic, soggy soil, and weak roots, the focus is on:

• controlled moisture
• healthy airflow
• strong root structure
• clean transplanting
• modular scalability

They also form the foundation of a larger modular growing ecosystem that will continue to expand over time — allowing seed starting to integrate seamlessly into larger indoor growing setups.

For now, these trays offer a simple, professional-grade way to start stronger plants at home.

The post Deep Cell Plug Trays – Seed Starters first appeared on logicalplanet.

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My design uses the classic funnel leading to bait strategy. And, I feel it has the potential to be “better” for a couple of reasons as follows:

1. I have made the funnel top quite large. Wasps are visually oriented and so making the top of the funnel large and yellow should increase the chances of a wasp finding the trap.
2. I have added a twist-to-open iris-style closure mechanism that a) provides a convenient closure when you want to close the trap to move it, and b) when the iris is open, the blades of the iris act as leaves to further enhance the visual appeal of the trap.
3. Lastly, I have made a PET bottle and a mason jar version of the traps so it can be attached conveniently to either of those types of containers.

I have included designs for both standard and wide-mouth mason jars.

The only issue I have seen so far is that the hot sun can affect the 3d printed parts quite easily if it is left to bake in the heat. So keep it out of the direct sunlight.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Assembly is very straightforward, and all the pieces of the trap snap or fit together easily without any added hardware, fasteners or adhesives.

The post A Better Wasp Trap first appeared on logicalplanet.

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IceCozy is a homemade ice “gel” pack (or freezer pack) that you 3D print and fill with a sugar (or salt) water solution. Once frozen, it will help to keep your drink significantly more chilled when compared to not using it (See my bench test results below). I developed this for the DrinkColder, but it can be used independently in any other application.

My original attempt to make an ice mould failed for a variety of reasons, and in the end, I decided no one really wants their drink sitting in a pool of water (from the melted ice) because that means it will drip on you every time you take a sip. But more importantly, water expands (about 9%) when frozen, making it very challenging to have a precise mould and fit into the DrinkColder. On the other hand, water saturated with sugar or anything similar does not expand. So the freezer “gel” solution I am using here allows a very accurately sized case to fit snug against your beverage.

Its slim and compact size limits its cooling power, so I think I will eventually work on some larger ones that might be standalone or some other style of fun drink holder. And, they can all use this same formulation.

It is critical that you print with modified printer settings to ensure the printed part is as leak-proof as possible. If you do not know, if you simply 3d print a container, it will most certainly leak when you put water in it. There are lots of strategies for making it leak-proof, but many require you to line it with epoxy or silicone, or something similar. My goal is to use a printed part without modification. We can do that by a) increasing the flow ratio to force a tighter print, and of course, you must print with more walls, more top and bottom layers, and 100% infill. And, b) increasing the viscosity of the water solution you put inside. Since water has a very low viscosity, it leaks easily through the microscopic pores in the printed container. But converting the water solution into a gel changes its ability to flow.

So first, please review my recommended print settings carefully. Then you should have a much more leak-resistant container. And that will be good enough because we are going to fill it with a homemade high-viscosity gel that will have a difficult time flowing through any remaining microscopic holes in the printed container. Once you fill the printed container with the gel, you close it by screwing on the lid. I have made that threaded connection quite tight to improve leak resistance, so you need to apply a small amount of lubricant or cooking oil to the threads as well as the top inside wall where the lid fits.

The gel inside commercial gel packs has always kind of scared me because it looks like something you do not want to consume, yet we often place it near consumables to keep them cold. But it turns out that whether the commercial ones are toxic or not, it does not need to be. Saturating water with sugar (and/or salt) can give you a high-density solution that functions as an excellent freezer pack. And, by using a thickening agent (xanthan gum), even when it comes to room temperature (or warmer), it will have a very difficult time leaking through your printed container.

Now, with all that said, I did test putting the thickened solution into a 3d printed vessel with default print settings, and it worked. The gel solution was too thick to flow through the walls. But I do not recommend relying on that. I also tested putting the sugar water solution without the thickening agent into a container printed using my modified settings (103% flow ratio). And, it also held. This might be acceptable. But leaking a sugar solution in the hot summer sun would be bad news, so I strongly recommend doing both, using the thickening agent and printing with modified settings.

I recommend printing and making multiple IceCozies so you can always have a few frozen ones standing by. I have also included a special funnel to make filling the container easier.

Bench Testing: Performance You Can Feel – Even After an Hour

I ran a bench test using water-filled aluminum cans that I refrigerated to 3c and wireless temperature probes, comparing four different setups at room temperature (~22c):

• Can 1: On the counter – open air
• Can 2: In DrinkColder
• Can 3: In DrinkColder + our IceCozy insert
• An ambient air probe (for reference)

Temperature after 30 minutes:

• Open air: 9c (Cool to cold)
• DrinkColder only: 8c (Chilled, refreshing)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 4c (Ice Cold)

Temperature after 60 minutes:

• Open air: 13c (Cool-ish)
• DrinkColder only: 10c (Cool to cold)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 6c (Chilled, refreshing)

What Counts as “Cold”?

For reference, these are the temperature ranges of the coldness categories I used:

• Ice Cold = 0–4 c – “Just out of the fridge”
• Chilled, refreshing = 5–8 c – “Still cold, perfect”
• Cool to cold = 9–12 c – “Still fine” for most people
• Cool-ish = 13–15 c – “Not cold, but OK”
• Mild or warm = 16 c+ – “This is getting too warm”

So after a full hour sitting out, the IceCozy system kept the drink in the “Chilled, refreshing” zone, while the unprotected can was already well into warm territory.
And the best part? – Even at the 90-minute mark, the IceCozy setup was still holding at just 8c — still within the refreshing zone — while the open can had climbed to nearly 14c.

Here is the formulation I have arrived at, and it works really well. This recipe will create 400g of gel, which is enough for filling 4 IceCozies (100g in each).

Xanthan Gum Syrup Gel Recipe for Freezer Pack

Ingredients:

• 200 ml or 200 g (~¾ cup) hot water (just under boiling is best for dissolving sugar)
• 200 g (~1 cup) white sugar (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio)
• 0.6 g xanthan gum (≈¼ teaspoon)
• 3–5 g salt (½ to 1 tsp)

Steps:

1. Mix dry ingredients: Combine sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large bowl. Stir/mix well.
2. Add hot water: Pour the hot water onto the dry mix and whisk for 30–60 seconds until smooth.
3. Let rest 5–10 min: It will thicken as it cools.
4. Pour into IceCozy cup up to the threads while warm. Exactly 100g (3.5 oz) of solution is perfect in one IceCozy.

How to Get the Best Cooling Performance

• Pre-chill your drink – Start with a can that’s been refrigerated for several hours — the IceCozy is designed to maintain cold, not create it.
• Freeze your IceCozy solid – Let it freeze overnight for best results. The syrup-based gel stays colder longer than regular ice. Freeze several so you have more standing by when needed.
• Assemble just before use – Place the frozen IceCozy inside the DrinkColder and drop your can in.
• Keep it out of the sun – Use the DrinkColder to create additional insulation and shade your beverage from the sun. For even greater effect, keep the DrinkColder out of the direct sun.
• Don’t open it often – Every time you lift the can, you let warmth in — keep it sealed when not sipping.

IMPORTANT:

This method of keeping your beverage cool depends entirely on starting with a refrigerated drink. The IceCozy contains about 100 ml of syrup, while a 12 fl oz beverage holds approximately 355 ml of liquid. That gives the IceCozy about 8,000 J of thermal capacity compared to the drink’s 20,800 J. In other words, it’s not designed to chill a warm beverage — only to help keep a cold one cold for longer.

Freezing the IceCozy means -18c (freezer temperature).

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

In order to make these parts more likely to retain water, please set the Flow Rate to 103% in your slicer. If needed, you can go higher up to 105%.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is not too much to say about assembly. Make your solution, and while it is still warm, pour it into the IceCozy cup. I have included a design for a funnel to help with this process but you could also use a squeeze bottle.

Fill the solution up to the threads. You do not need to leave headspace beyond that as there is a gap in the lid.

It can be very beneficial to apply some lubricant or cooking oil on the threads of the lid before screwing it into place.

The post IceCozy first appeared on logicalplanet.

I’m not entirely sure how I arrived at designing this. I just had a thought in my head that a self-closing beverage holder would be fun. It started as something completely different, but once I got on the design that it is now, I just loved it. It is so satisfying to play with and fun to keep a drink concealed and cool in.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

As it stands now, it is one of my favourite designs. I think I feel that way because of the collapsing iris design that I created. While it is really just one element of the design and may be lost on many, it is very slick. The blades of the iris are compounding so that they can collapse into a smaller space than the radial distance of the opening. I am definitely going to try to find other applications for that!

And, I managed to get the iris to activate by the vertical movement of the upper section of the DrinkColder. This is another area of design that fascinates me… using human power in a way that is almost not even noticed. In this case, by pressing down on the DrinkColder in a very natural way you receive the beverage but at the same time, you are moving the machine inside.

I have often thought about how we open and close doors in the same way giving up some energy every time we do it; how can that be harnessed and used?

Anyway, back to the DrinkColder… the other aspect of this design that I really love is the counterweight effect of the top and bottom moving halves which makes the whole thing work. And, when a drink is removed the DrinkColder stays open for it to be returned to.

No motors, no springs — just effective geometry, balance, and symetrical gears.

Features

• Fits standard 355ml (12oz) cans
• Includes optional cozy insert or TPU ice ring mold to keep your drink extra cold
• Uses internal counterbalance and gears for motion — no electronics
• Designed for PLA with no supports required
• Visual assembly guide included
• Dimensions: 114mm x 114mm x 167mm (4.5” x 4.5” x 6.6”)
• Top iris opening: 70mm diameter

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

Since posting the DrinkColder, I had someone point out that printing with 2 different layer heights will help parts slide better in situations like this design. I will experiment with that and post an update when I can.

Post Printing and Assembly Notes

Deburr any sharp edges after printing. And, use light lubrication at rotating joints.

Please see the assembly video for instructions…

The post DrinkColder first appeared on logicalplanet.

I wanted a better way to keep a couple of dog bags with me, especially in the summer when I don’t have a jacket and all the accompanying pockets. As any dog owner likely knows, if you put a couple of loose bags in your pocket it is hard to tell if they are there or not and eventually you find yourself out for a walk and your pockets are empty. And, when you put loose dog bags in your pocket they become messy catching with anything else in your pocket. So my idea was a credit card-sized bag holder that would allow you to keep the bags organized and know that you have it before you set out.

I have worked on this for a long time but it only finally became clear to me recently when I realized a stand was a good idea and then the winder could be stored there. The winder can also be kept inside the PcoektBagCard but because it takes up precious space that means 1 less bag. Abd, with the stand able to hold 3 PocketBagCard, you can have them standing by and ready whenever you want to grab one to go.

The PocketBagCard itself is two pieces that are hinged together and print-in-place resulting in a very strong hinge and no assembly required.

The stand holds up to 3 PocketBagCards and has storage for the winder.

Using It

The idea is to wind a few bags around the Winder with a corner of the first bag extended out. By doing so, the bags will uncoil from the middle of the coiled bags and easily and neatly dispense from the PocketBagCard. So you hold a corner, wrap the bags and then slide them off the Winder.

Then place the coiled bags into the PocketBagCard with that exposed corner peaking through the gap in the hinged end. Fold it closed, and you are ready to dispense.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

The post PocketBagCard – Credit Card Sized Bag Holder first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have for some time thought circulating air through wet gloves would be a good way to dry them and it turns out it is. My initial testing shows it is about 4 times faster to dry gloves with this dryer compared to no air circulation.

This glove dryer accelerates the glove-drying process by circulating air inside the glove.  To be clear, there is no heat so this needs to be used in doors.

The design is completely snap-together and a fairly easy print. Making this dryer for a pair of gloves requires two sets of everything except the Palm part. That should be mirrored I your slicer to make it a right Palm. But even if you do not mirror it, you can just turn it around in the base.

The glove dryer is snapped together and requires no fasteners or other hardware other than a 6015 blower-style fan.  I used a USB-powered model (linked below), but I suspect any 6015 blower fan will work since they are generally standardized in size.  If you have 6015 that does not fit, please let me know. 

I am in Canada so I used this… click here.

Some USA equivalents appear to be…. click here or here.

The glove size capacity of the dryer might also be an issue for some. If you find you have gloves that do not fit, please let me know and I will explore making other sizes of the “hand” assembly. The base should be able to stay the same and just snap in other “hand” sizes.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material = PLA or PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = No, except for Palm – add if needed. 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files.

Assembly Notes

After printing, please remove the built-in print support from the Base and Release as shown.

And, then assembly of the dryer is as shown in the following images…

The post Glove Dryer first appeared on logicalplanet.