I like to grow herbs and vegetables for cooking, and this year I am adding Thai peppers and jalapenos. My plan is to smoke the jalapenos to make chipoltes. I can’t wait, but I need to get an early start on these peppers in our colder climate. And, so I have created an indoor seed starting and growing platform. Later, I will ty to use this for growing some herbs indoors, and I will also apply some of my hydroponic experience to make an insert for hydroponic growing.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Every growing season I found myself juggling trays, heat mats, lights balanced on boxes, and awkward height adjustments as seedlings shot up faster than expected. It worked — but it was messy, unstable, and never quite dialed in.

The Logical Grow Platform (LGP) was designed to solve that problem in a clean, modular, fully printable way.

Instead of building a temporary setup every spring, the LGP creates a dedicated growing platform that holds your seed trays, integrates optional bottom heat, supports a common LED grow panel, and adjusts smoothly as your plants grow — all while staying compact enough to print on a standard 250mm bed.

It’s a system meant to grow with you, not something you outgrow in two weeks.

What It Is & How It Works

At its core, the LGP is a snap-together main body that holds seed starting trays inside a raised platform, with two adjustable threaded posts that support a removable light hood above.

The hood holds a standard aluminum LED grow panel, while the base can optionally house a low-power reptile-style heater for bottom warmth during germination.

As seedlings emerge and stretch upward, you simply rotate the posts to raise the light — keeping an optimal distance without stacking books or rebuilding your setup.

Everything is modular:

• Trays drop in and swap out easily
• The hood lifts off instantly for watering or transplanting
• Height adjusts smoothly with precise control

Key Parts & Mechanisms

The LGP is built around a few carefully designed functional elements.

Snap-Together Main Body
The base assembles from interlocking pieces using tongue-and-groove joints and internal latches. It locks rigidly while still allowing disassembly if needed.

Adjustable Threaded Posts
Each post raises or lowers the hood smoothly with every rotation — about 6mm (roughly 1/4”) per turn.

An extended grip rib acts as a visual rotation marker so you can keep the hood perfectly level if you want precise alignment.

The posts can also be printed mirrored if you prefer counter-rotating motion instead of both turning the same direction.

Two-Piece Snap Hood
The hood prints in two identical halves that slide together over the LED panel and lock underneath with printed clips — no hardware required.

Integrated Cable Strain Relief
Both the hood and base include built-in cord management points to protect and route power cables cleanly.

Size & Dimensions

Despite being a complete growing platform, the LGP stays compact enough for shelves, desks, and indoor grow spaces.

The footprint is roughly 445mm long by 180mm wide, with height adjustable from about 175mm up to nearly 390mm depending on post position.

It comfortably fits multiple Logical Grow trays while remaining stable and easy to move.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

The Logical Grow Platform is designed as a functional print — strength matters more than cosmetic perfection.

Recommended settings focus on durability:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• Thick walls and solid top/bottom layers
• 40% cubic infill for general use or 100% for maximum longevity

PLA works well for indoor use, while PETG or ASA are ideal for higher heat or long-term durability.

Everything prints support-free in strength-optimized orientations.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Because the adjustable posts are printed with tight tolerances to eliminate wobble, they may need a quick break-in.

This is done by gently squeezing or tapping the post sections, then fully extending and retracting them once or twice until motion becomes smooth.

An included Post Tool acts as a small wrench to help rotate the internal elements if needed.

Once loosened, the movement becomes effortless and precise.

Assembly

Assembly is entirely snap-fit — no screws, glue, or hardware required.

Main Body
The end pieces slide into the center section and click into place using built-in latches.
If the bottom tongue-and-groove features don’t perfectly self-align, a gentle flex will seat them flush.

Adjustable Posts
Prepared posts press into the connectors in each end of the base and snap securely.

Hood
The two hood halves slide onto the LED panel and lock together underneath using printed clips.

The hood then rests directly on the adjustable posts for quick removal.

Everyday Use & Operation

Using the LGP quickly becomes second nature.

Start seeds in your trays, drop them into the base, and optionally add bottom heat for faster germination.

Once sprouts appear, lower the hood close to the seedlings for strong early growth. As plants stretch, rotate the posts to raise the light smoothly.

The hood lifts off instantly for watering, thinning, or transplanting.

Everything stays organized, stable, and perfectly positioned through every growth stage.

Why This Design Exists

The Logical Grow Platform was created to replace the unstable pile-of-stuff grow setups most of us end up using.

It’s about:

• Clean organization
• Smooth mechanical adjustment
• Modular expansion
• Turning seed starting into a proper system

It also forms the foundation of the broader Logical Grow ecosystem — with interchangeable trays, accessories like filling funnels and reusable plant markers, and future modules designed to scale from germination through indoor growing.

Like all LogicalPlanet designs, it’s built to be practical, durable, and satisfying to use.

The post Logical Grow Platform (LGP) first appeared on logicalplanet.

Every growing season seems to start the same way — stacks of flimsy plastic seed trays, soil everywhere, seedlings sitting in soggy bottoms, and roots already circling before the plants are even ready to move outside.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

Most seed-starting systems are designed to be cheap and disposable, not to actually support strong early plant development.

These deep cell plug trays were designed to change that.

Instead of shallow cups and messy watering, they create a controlled, clean growing environment that promotes healthy root growth, proper drainage, and easy transplanting — all in reusable modular sizes that scale from small test batches to larger planting runs.

Whether you’re starting a few peppers or filling a full shelf with seedlings, the 2×3, 2×5, and 3×5 trays provide the same optimized growing conditions in flexible footprints.

What It Is & How It Works

Each plug tray is built as a complete propagation system focused on moisture control, airflow, and root health.

Deep growing cells give seedlings room to develop strong early root systems while maintaining excellent drainage. A translucent humidity dome traps warmth and moisture during germination, while built-in micro-vent spaces allow controlled airflow to prevent stagnant conditions.

The cells sit in a raised propagation tray that creates an airflow and drainage gap underneath. This enables clean bottom watering, prevents water buildup, and works perfectly with seed heat mats for faster germination.

Together, these elements form a compact micro-environment that encourages quicker sprouting, healthier growth, and far less mess.

Key Parts & Mechanisms

Each tray size uses the same thoughtfully engineered components:

Deep Plug Cells
Tall growing chambers with internal root-guiding ribs that direct roots downward rather than spiraling, creating dense, compact root plugs that transplant cleanly.

Push-Up Ejectors
Removable bases inside each cell allow the entire soil plug and plant to be lifted out gently — no pulling or root damage. Drainage holes in the ejectors prevent oversaturation and support bottom watering.

Raised Propagation Tray
A rigid support tray that holds the cells aligned while creating airflow and drainage underneath to keep roots healthy and soil properly aerated.

Humidity Dome
A translucent cover that maintains high humidity for germination while passive vent spaces provide controlled airflow for healthier early growth.

Size & Dimensions

The deep cell plug trays are available in three modular formats:

2×3 Tray — 6 cells
Great for small batches, specialty seeds, or limited space.

2×5 Tray — 10 cells
A balanced size for moderate planting runs.

3×5 Tray — 15 cells
Ideal for larger starts when prepping full gardens.

Each cell features approximately 60mm of growing depth, making them especially well suited for:

• peppers and tomatoes
• herbs and flowers
• seedlings that benefit from strong root systems

The deeper design allows plants to remain in the trays longer before transplanting while building healthier roots than shallow starter trays.

Printing Notes & Recommended Settings

All components are designed to print easily using common filaments and standard slicer settings.

PLA works perfectly for indoor growing. For longer-term durability or higher humidity environments, PETG or ASA are excellent options.

Recommended baseline settings:

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 0.2mm layer height
• 4 walls
• 5 top/bottom layers
• 30–40% infill
• No supports required

The geometry is forgiving and optimized for strong, clean prints.

Post-Print Setup & Motion Release

Very little post-processing is required.

After printing:

• Gently flex each ejector base to ensure smooth movement
• Clear any minor stringing around drainage holes
• Test the push-up action once or twice

Once done, the trays are ready to fill and plant.

Assembly (If Required)

No assembly is required.

The plug cells drop directly into the propagation tray, ejectors slide into place, and the humidity dome rests on top.

Everything is designed as a simple modular drop-in system for easy cleaning and long-term reuse.

Everyday Use & Operation

The workflow is clean and straightforward:

• Pre-moisten potting mix
• Fill each cell (a single-cell soil funnel is included for mess-free filling)
• Sow seeds and lightly cover
• Place the humidity dome on top for germination
• Bottom water as needed
• Remove dome once seedlings emerge
• Push up ejectors to transplant cleanly when ready

Reusable plant markers designed for standard 12mm × 40mm labels (such as Nimbot-style labels) — or simple handwritten notes — make tracking varieties easy throughout the growing process.

Everything stays organized, clean, and frustration-free.

Why This Design Exists

These plug trays were created to replace disposable seed starters with a reusable, well-engineered system that actually supports plant health.

Instead of dealing with warped plastic, soggy soil, and weak roots, the focus is on:

• controlled moisture
• healthy airflow
• strong root structure
• clean transplanting
• modular scalability

They also form the foundation of a larger modular growing ecosystem that will continue to expand over time — allowing seed starting to integrate seamlessly into larger indoor growing setups.

For now, these trays offer a simple, professional-grade way to start stronger plants at home.

The post Deep Cell Plug Trays – Seed Starters first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

My design uses the classic funnel leading to bait strategy. And, I feel it has the potential to be “better” for a couple of reasons as follows:

1. I have made the funnel top quite large. Wasps are visually oriented and so making the top of the funnel large and yellow should increase the chances of a wasp finding the trap.
2. I have added a twist-to-open iris-style closure mechanism that a) provides a convenient closure when you want to close the trap to move it, and b) when the iris is open, the blades of the iris act as leaves to further enhance the visual appeal of the trap.
3. Lastly, I have made a PET bottle and a mason jar version of the traps so it can be attached conveniently to either of those types of containers.

I have included designs for both standard and wide-mouth mason jars.

The only issue I have seen so far is that the hot sun can affect the 3d printed parts quite easily if it is left to bake in the heat. So keep it out of the direct sunlight.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

Assembly is very straightforward, and all the pieces of the trap snap or fit together easily without any added hardware, fasteners or adhesives.

The post A Better Wasp Trap first appeared on logicalplanet.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

IceCozy is a homemade ice “gel” pack (or freezer pack) that you 3D print and fill with a sugar (or salt) water solution. Once frozen, it will help to keep your drink significantly more chilled when compared to not using it (See my bench test results below). I developed this for the DrinkColder, but it can be used independently in any other application.

My original attempt to make an ice mould failed for a variety of reasons, and in the end, I decided no one really wants their drink sitting in a pool of water (from the melted ice) because that means it will drip on you every time you take a sip. But more importantly, water expands (about 9%) when frozen, making it very challenging to have a precise mould and fit into the DrinkColder. On the other hand, water saturated with sugar or anything similar does not expand. So the freezer “gel” solution I am using here allows a very accurately sized case to fit snug against your beverage.

Its slim and compact size limits its cooling power, so I think I will eventually work on some larger ones that might be standalone or some other style of fun drink holder. And, they can all use this same formulation.

It is critical that you print with modified printer settings to ensure the printed part is as leak-proof as possible. If you do not know, if you simply 3d print a container, it will most certainly leak when you put water in it. There are lots of strategies for making it leak-proof, but many require you to line it with epoxy or silicone, or something similar. My goal is to use a printed part without modification. We can do that by a) increasing the flow ratio to force a tighter print, and of course, you must print with more walls, more top and bottom layers, and 100% infill. And, b) increasing the viscosity of the water solution you put inside. Since water has a very low viscosity, it leaks easily through the microscopic pores in the printed container. But converting the water solution into a gel changes its ability to flow.

So first, please review my recommended print settings carefully. Then you should have a much more leak-resistant container. And that will be good enough because we are going to fill it with a homemade high-viscosity gel that will have a difficult time flowing through any remaining microscopic holes in the printed container. Once you fill the printed container with the gel, you close it by screwing on the lid. I have made that threaded connection quite tight to improve leak resistance, so you need to apply a small amount of lubricant or cooking oil to the threads as well as the top inside wall where the lid fits.

The gel inside commercial gel packs has always kind of scared me because it looks like something you do not want to consume, yet we often place it near consumables to keep them cold. But it turns out that whether the commercial ones are toxic or not, it does not need to be. Saturating water with sugar (and/or salt) can give you a high-density solution that functions as an excellent freezer pack. And, by using a thickening agent (xanthan gum), even when it comes to room temperature (or warmer), it will have a very difficult time leaking through your printed container.

Now, with all that said, I did test putting the thickened solution into a 3d printed vessel with default print settings, and it worked. The gel solution was too thick to flow through the walls. But I do not recommend relying on that. I also tested putting the sugar water solution without the thickening agent into a container printed using my modified settings (103% flow ratio). And, it also held. This might be acceptable. But leaking a sugar solution in the hot summer sun would be bad news, so I strongly recommend doing both, using the thickening agent and printing with modified settings.

I recommend printing and making multiple IceCozies so you can always have a few frozen ones standing by. I have also included a special funnel to make filling the container easier.

Bench Testing: Performance You Can Feel – Even After an Hour

I ran a bench test using water-filled aluminum cans that I refrigerated to 3c and wireless temperature probes, comparing four different setups at room temperature (~22c):

• Can 1: On the counter – open air
• Can 2: In DrinkColder
• Can 3: In DrinkColder + our IceCozy insert
• An ambient air probe (for reference)

Temperature after 30 minutes:

• Open air: 9c (Cool to cold)
• DrinkColder only: 8c (Chilled, refreshing)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 4c (Ice Cold)

Temperature after 60 minutes:

• Open air: 13c (Cool-ish)
• DrinkColder only: 10c (Cool to cold)
• IceCozy in DrinkColder: 6c (Chilled, refreshing)

What Counts as “Cold”?

For reference, these are the temperature ranges of the coldness categories I used:

• Ice Cold = 0–4 c – “Just out of the fridge”
• Chilled, refreshing = 5–8 c – “Still cold, perfect”
• Cool to cold = 9–12 c – “Still fine” for most people
• Cool-ish = 13–15 c – “Not cold, but OK”
• Mild or warm = 16 c+ – “This is getting too warm”

So after a full hour sitting out, the IceCozy system kept the drink in the “Chilled, refreshing” zone, while the unprotected can was already well into warm territory.
And the best part? – Even at the 90-minute mark, the IceCozy setup was still holding at just 8c — still within the refreshing zone — while the open can had climbed to nearly 14c.

Here is the formulation I have arrived at, and it works really well. This recipe will create 400g of gel, which is enough for filling 4 IceCozies (100g in each).

Xanthan Gum Syrup Gel Recipe for Freezer Pack

Ingredients:

• 200 ml or 200 g (~¾ cup) hot water (just under boiling is best for dissolving sugar)
• 200 g (~1 cup) white sugar (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio)
• 0.6 g xanthan gum (≈¼ teaspoon)
• 3–5 g salt (½ to 1 tsp)

Steps:

1. Mix dry ingredients: Combine sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large bowl. Stir/mix well.
2. Add hot water: Pour the hot water onto the dry mix and whisk for 30–60 seconds until smooth.
3. Let rest 5–10 min: It will thicken as it cools.
4. Pour into IceCozy cup up to the threads while warm. Exactly 100g (3.5 oz) of solution is perfect in one IceCozy.

How to Get the Best Cooling Performance

• Pre-chill your drink – Start with a can that’s been refrigerated for several hours — the IceCozy is designed to maintain cold, not create it.
• Freeze your IceCozy solid – Let it freeze overnight for best results. The syrup-based gel stays colder longer than regular ice. Freeze several so you have more standing by when needed.
• Assemble just before use – Place the frozen IceCozy inside the DrinkColder and drop your can in.
• Keep it out of the sun – Use the DrinkColder to create additional insulation and shade your beverage from the sun. For even greater effect, keep the DrinkColder out of the direct sun.
• Don’t open it often – Every time you lift the can, you let warmth in — keep it sealed when not sipping.

IMPORTANT:

This method of keeping your beverage cool depends entirely on starting with a refrigerated drink. The IceCozy contains about 100 ml of syrup, while a 12 fl oz beverage holds approximately 355 ml of liquid. That gives the IceCozy about 8,000 J of thermal capacity compared to the drink’s 20,800 J. In other words, it’s not designed to chill a warm beverage — only to help keep a cold one cold for longer.

Freezing the IceCozy means -18c (freezer temperature).

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

In order to make these parts more likely to retain water, please set the Flow Rate to 103% in your slicer. If needed, you can go higher up to 105%.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

There is not too much to say about assembly. Make your solution, and while it is still warm, pour it into the IceCozy cup. I have included a design for a funnel to help with this process but you could also use a squeeze bottle.

Fill the solution up to the threads. You do not need to leave headspace beyond that as there is a gap in the lid.

It can be very beneficial to apply some lubricant or cooking oil on the threads of the lid before screwing it into place.

The post IceCozy first appeared on logicalplanet.

I’m not entirely sure how I arrived at designing this. I just had a thought in my head that a self-closing beverage holder would be fun. It started as something completely different, but once I got on the design that it is now, I just loved it. It is so satisfying to play with and fun to keep a drink concealed and cool in.

Click here to download STL (Affiliate Link)

As it stands now, it is one of my favourite designs. I think I feel that way because of the collapsing iris design that I created. While it is really just one element of the design and may be lost on many, it is very slick. The blades of the iris are compounding so that they can collapse into a smaller space than the radial distance of the opening. I am definitely going to try to find other applications for that!

And, I managed to get the iris to activate by the vertical movement of the upper section of the DrinkColder. This is another area of design that fascinates me… using human power in a way that is almost not even noticed. In this case, by pressing down on the DrinkColder in a very natural way you receive the beverage but at the same time, you are moving the machine inside.

I have often thought about how we open and close doors in the same way giving up some energy every time we do it; how can that be harnessed and used?

Anyway, back to the DrinkColder… the other aspect of this design that I really love is the counterweight effect of the top and bottom moving halves which makes the whole thing work. And, when a drink is removed the DrinkColder stays open for it to be returned to.

No motors, no springs — just effective geometry, balance, and symetrical gears.

Features

• Fits standard 355ml (12oz) cans
• Includes optional cozy insert or TPU ice ring mold to keep your drink extra cold
• Uses internal counterbalance and gears for motion — no electronics
• Designed for PLA with no supports required
• Visual assembly guide included
• Dimensions: 114mm x 114mm x 167mm (4.5” x 4.5” x 6.6”)
• Top iris opening: 70mm diameter

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

Since posting the DrinkColder, I had someone point out that printing with 2 different layer heights will help parts slide better in situations like this design. I will experiment with that and post an update when I can.

Post Printing and Assembly Notes

Deburr any sharp edges after printing. And, use light lubrication at rotating joints.

Please see the assembly video for instructions…

The post DrinkColder first appeared on logicalplanet.

I wanted a better way to keep a couple of dog bags with me, especially in the summer when I don’t have a jacket and all the accompanying pockets. As any dog owner likely knows, if you put a couple of loose bags in your pocket it is hard to tell if they are there or not and eventually you find yourself out for a walk and your pockets are empty. And, when you put loose dog bags in your pocket they become messy catching with anything else in your pocket. So my idea was a credit card-sized bag holder that would allow you to keep the bags organized and know that you have it before you set out.

I have worked on this for a long time but it only finally became clear to me recently when I realized a stand was a good idea and then the winder could be stored there. The winder can also be kept inside the PcoektBagCard but because it takes up precious space that means 1 less bag. Abd, with the stand able to hold 3 PocketBagCard, you can have them standing by and ready whenever you want to grab one to go.

The PocketBagCard itself is two pieces that are hinged together and print-in-place resulting in a very strong hinge and no assembly required.

The stand holds up to 3 PocketBagCards and has storage for the winder.

Using It

The idea is to wind a few bags around the Winder with a corner of the first bag extended out. By doing so, the bags will uncoil from the middle of the coiled bags and easily and neatly dispense from the PocketBagCard. So you hold a corner, wrap the bags and then slide them off the Winder.

Then place the coiled bags into the PocketBagCard with that exposed corner peaking through the gap in the hinged end. Fold it closed, and you are ready to dispense.

Print Settings

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height. For best results I suggest the following:

Assembly Notes

No assembly required.

The post PocketBagCard – Credit Card Sized Bag Holder first appeared on logicalplanet.

I have for some time thought circulating air through wet gloves would be a good way to dry them and it turns out it is. My initial testing shows it is about 4 times faster to dry gloves with this dryer compared to no air circulation.

This glove dryer accelerates the glove-drying process by circulating air inside the glove.  To be clear, there is no heat so this needs to be used in doors.

The design is completely snap-together and a fairly easy print. Making this dryer for a pair of gloves requires two sets of everything except the Palm part. That should be mirrored I your slicer to make it a right Palm. But even if you do not mirror it, you can just turn it around in the base.

The glove dryer is snapped together and requires no fasteners or other hardware other than a 6015 blower-style fan.  I used a USB-powered model (linked below), but I suspect any 6015 blower fan will work since they are generally standardized in size.  If you have 6015 that does not fit, please let me know. 

I am in Canada so I used this… click here.

Some USA equivalents appear to be…. click here or here.

The glove size capacity of the dryer might also be an issue for some. If you find you have gloves that do not fit, please let me know and I will explore making other sizes of the “hand” assembly. The base should be able to stay the same and just snap in other “hand” sizes.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material = PLA or PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• Line Width = 0.4mm
• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Detect Thin Walls = ON
• Wall Generator = Arachne
• Infill = 40% (Cubic)
• Ironing = Not required
• Brim = No, except for Palm – add if needed. 
• Support = No, all required support is incorporated into the design.
• Print orientation = As per the STL/3MF files.

Assembly Notes

After printing, please remove the built-in print support from the Base and Release as shown.

And, then assembly of the dryer is as shown in the following images…

The post Glove Dryer first appeared on logicalplanet.

In my opinion, these are just a better design for a pot scraper than the commercially made ones I have used.

I have made it bigger so you can grab hold of it, and longer so that you can press it into your hand and apply real pressure for cleaning. The commercially made ones rely too much on finger strength (in my opinion). It has more texture to help improve grip as well. And, I have made a stand for it so it is not getting lost in the cupboard under our sink.

I did make a smaller one just in case someone does not like the large one but I really think the larger one makes more sense. Even the fact that it has a long side gives you the ability to make wider swaths when needed.

I have also included a simple stand, so you have somewhere to put the scraper when not in use.

Printing

Functional designs (such as this one) generally require more strength than non-functional designs and more strength than the typical default slicer settings provide, so please review your slicer settings carefully.

I definitely recommend printing this in PETG for strength and durability.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Material: PETG
• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 100%
• Support = None required
• Brim = NO
• Print Orientation: As per STL files

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

Hi Mum! Thank you.

The post Pot Scrapers first appeared on logicalplanet.

I often walk my dogs to a place that has some running space but generally don’t bring a ball as it is not too convenient to try to put a ball in my pocket… well until now! This folding ball fits into any pocket and can be carried around just waiting for an opportunity to be played with.

This is a print-in-place 1-piece ball that folds (not collapses) into a 12mm thick disc. It can be deployed and collapsed quickly and easily.

So far I have made two versions of this 2.5″ ball; a) a lightweight version for cats and small dogs and b) an “HD” (heavier duty) version for a little bit bigger dogs. The HD version has a middle core that serves two purposes. First, it increases the overall mass which helps with throwing, and second, it strengthens the ball by creating a cross member in the middle of the deployed ball. My 60lbs dog loves to chase balls and can nonetheless destroy this one in a heartbeat so I had to teach him not to bite it. But I am motivated to make a stronger bigger one for him and other bigger dogs.

Printing

Of course, your material selection and slicer settings are major contributors to the success of this print depending on your needs. I think if you are printing it for a cat, for example, default slicer settings and PLA would probably be fine. But for a medium-sized dog, you will need PETG, Nylon or something else similarly strong. And, you will want to print with a minimum of 4 walls and 100% infill.

This product was designed for a 0.4mm nozzle, a 0.2mm layer height and the following settings:

• Wall Line Count = 4 ( 4 x 0.4mm = 1.6mm walls )
• Top and Bottom Layer Count = 5 ( 5 x 0.2mm = 1.0mm top and bottom )
• Infill = 100%
• Ironing = OFF or ON; ON will help separate the layers but I had good success without Ironing (and its added print time)
• Support = NO
• Brim = NO
• MATERIAL: PETG recommended (any material should work fine)
• PRINT ORIENTATION: As per the STL

Assembly Notes

No assembly is required. Gently separate the layers of the Outer Rings so that they can open freely.

The post Folding Ball first appeared on logicalplanet.

Obviously, you must use a food-safe material AND you do not want to use these long term. Consider them disposable and print new ones if you need them again. FDM printed products are inherently difficult to keep sterile due to the fine layers (rough surface).

The “Presses” or pushers are intended to be used to push the cut fruit out without having to handle it. As you can see from the short video, you can also use the cutter to cut long sections and then cut them with a knife to create thin slices.

Printing

I have tried to make my main print settings visible on the Cura screenshot but in case they are difficult to read I have summarized them again here…

Material: I chose to use a food-grade PETG.

My Setup:
Nozzle = 0.4mm

My Settings:
Layer height = 0.2mm
Line width = 0.4mm
Wall count = 2 (0.8mm)
Infill = 15%

Support:
Designed to print without support.

Print Orientation: As shown in the screenshot(s).

Assembly Notes

No assembly or post-print processing is required.

The post Fruit Punch (Melon/Cookie Cutter) first appeared on logicalplanet.